As Tom says, the higher the load on the rod, the greater the advantage. IMHO, the ONLY disadvantage to a spiral wrap is that they look goofy looking down the blank. That is a defect in my design, not the design of the rod, so unless you have the same defect, spiral wrap it, simple spiral works great, easy to lay out. Put your second guide 90 degrees to the side that makes it and the reel handl
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As Tom says, the higher the load on the rod, the greater the advantage. IMHO, the ONLY disadvantage to a spiral wrap is that they look goofy looking down the blank. That is a defect in my design, not the design of the rod, so unless you have the same defect, spiral wrap it, simple spiral works great, easy to lay out. Put your second guide 90 degrees to the side that makes it and the reel handl
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Implied in Roger's statement is that for EVA, being more compliant than reel seats or other rigid components, should have its length completely supported. You can also use, if the dimensions are suitable, reel seat shims completely supporting the EVA.
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Winn came to our rodbuilders gathering and showed a number of salt water rods claiming that they worked fine. I think they were surf rods , if I remember correctly. i suggest you contact Winn and ask what the limitations of their grips are for saltwater rods of the type you are interested in. It could be that you and the responders are talking apples and oranges.
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No problem. Misalignment of guides is not the issue many think it is.
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Nice to see so many creative ideas proposed in answer to the original question, rather than just dismissing the idea.
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Thanks for the ideas, Mudhole and Spencer. Mudhole, does the matte product result in a fairly good build, or is it more like Lumiseal and Permagloss.?
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I think it could be done satisfactorily with minimum weight gain by using spiral wrap (as stated above) with two reduction spinning guides for the spin side. So the running guides would be the same for both reels. I would consider using electrical tape or similar for attaching both reels. I'm not saying it would be an optimum rod, but I don't think it would be a disaster, either. It would gai
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Good info Mudhole, Norman, and Sam. Good to get some real experience passed on.
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Bruce, yes, you need to use liquid epoxy, whether fast or slow cure. It has to flow to get into the right position on the inside of the reel seat. Paste will not work properly in this application. Watch the U tube in my first post, second in this string.
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One failure cause not yet detailed is having a rod strike a surface with the rod moving tip forward and moving parallel to its axis, jamming the tip. One boat rod locker I had did not prevent this type of movement and it broke two rods before I figured it out. Of course this can happen in a number of ways, but it's deadly on HM rods.
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Use enough epoxy to "overflow" the arbor "cup" and it will bridge between the inside of the seat to the arbor- it bonds the seat to epoxy to arbor to blank. If this bridging is there, there is no need to bond the OD of the arbor to the ID of the seat. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, please.
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I expect most already know, but there is a good article in the library on proper treatment of rods.
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There is no titanium guide that is not an alloy. There is no steel guide that is not an alloy. There is no iron engine block that is not an alloy. Their are no aluminum or steel body panels used in the auto industry that are not alloys. As stated, guides are guides. Tiptops are tiptops. They differ specifically by what they are intended to do (their expected duty cycle) and what the pur
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Just use any titanium framed tiptop that has the right sizes of ring and tube and forget about the thousenths of ounces you might be missing.
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Regarding runny epoxy, yes, it is intended that liquid epoxy be used. Paste will not work. If enough epoxy is used there will be solid contact between the arbor, the blank, and the seat. It's on the inside, so no clean-up should be necessary.
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I have been told by another builder that he had trouble with the surface getting distorted when he tried forcing them over a blank that was too big for the grip's hole. So I think it best to have the parts sized so they dry fit easily before gluing. I've used only shorter ones and have had no problems with parts sized as I mention above. They are offered in very long lengths, so I expect a not
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I've not tried them. They look like a very good product, conceptually.
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Disposable lighter, too. I use 90% isopropyl for clean-up of uncured epoxy. It works, smells clean and fresh.
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Manufacturers might salivate, but that would make the market for custom built rods with thread-wrapped guides stronger. There are two things that I and I expect many others enjoy about their rods. 1 is function. 2 is aesthetics. Even though I might have 100% confidence that the threadless attachment would function perfectly forever, it really lacks in the aesthetics component. I really apprec
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I expect that EVA comes in various grades and quality, like most other things. I also expect that Billy is selling a very good grade, so. . .
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Ben, regarding the two guide reduction, one rod was a Rainshadow RX8 med heavy fast action 7 foot rod, reel is Stradic 4000, line is braid, I believe 15 or 20. Not sure, son is using it and loves it for LMB swim jigs, usually 3/8 to 1/2. Light braids are very forgiving. Use 15 or lower and just about anything will work.
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One early question that I've not seen answered is : Can one use a reduction train of just two guides, with the third guide being the first of the runners. Yes you can. I've done it and the rods cast fine. Now that I'm into using KLH guides I don't do that, but it can be done. What I used were Y Alps titanium reduction guides in 25-10 then 5.5's (I believe, but don't remember for sure) to the
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Since the line doesn't read the brand name on the guides, but reacts to the geometry of the system, you can use any brand of guide with the KR system instructions IF YOU CAN MATCH THE GEOMETRY, which is very unlikely. Fuji makes some very affordable KR guides, so why not just use them. Their catalog gives very easy to use instructions on layout depending on the line you intend to use. Catalo
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You'll get a million different answers here, and interpreting what they mean can lead you off. Go with Kirkman.
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Regarding alloys, including titanium. It is highly unlikely that any product of any metallic material will be made of a pure non-alloyed metal. Alloying is done to alter the properties of a metal making it more suitable for the job it's intended to do. Strength, ductility, work hardening characteristics, corrosion, etc. Expecting "pure titanium" is unrealistic.
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This gives a little insight into the making of Fuji's guides: From page 77 of the Anglers Resource catalog: "1) NO-WELD construction Concept Guides™ are stamped from a single sheet of high-grade, corrosion resistant stainless steel or Titanium Alloy and sent thru a series of 20 shaping molds to attain their final form. This series of micro-bends assures no compromise in tensile strength
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I submit it is much more important how they are made, and what they are made of, than how they are advertised. There is nothing simple about making a guide. There are significant differences between guides based on their metallurgy and the manufacturing processes that build them, the ring materials, and finishing processes. Stop and think how you could process the materials into a product that
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Just found them listed on Mudhole, probably a little pricey for what I'm willing to go with. thanks to all for catching me up.
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No need for a catalog, Jim, I found the T2 black in your on line catalog. I'd really like a good image, will keep looking. I know what your black SS look like, with alconite. thanks, Mick
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