If by "virgin in terms of landing fish" means you've struck out in getting hits or landing fish that have struck, I don't think a rod change is he magic fix. I have no experience with the RX7 +, but do with the Eternity 2. In both 8 and 9 weight they are more powerful than their specs. They are fast, so cast differently than a typical traditional blank of the same power. Are you
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Glad to hear.
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I would go with the train starting with 20. I see no significant disadvantage and it will be more versatile re line pound test and reel characteristics. Like Norm mentions. Keep in mind that these guides are tall and your rod cases need to big enough to handle them.
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Since it's mostly open I would go for 9 foot, and since you'll travel to LA, I would opt for 4 piece (they are fine now, perform as well as 2 piece to me). If you're worried about the trees at the rainbow place, and rod length concerns you, go shorter. But be aware that casting distance most likely will suffer. Any decent reel matched to the rod weight should work fine since we are not talking
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Since I know that QL's prices vary a lot depending where you buy, I expect Arctos to be the same, so shop around our sponsors.
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Pac Bay says the Arctos is not as fast as the Quickline and are more true to their advertised line weight rating. Quicklines are on the high side. They have not published Arctos CCS. They are very positive on how the Arctos rods cast. So if action speed is your primary goal, Quickline, according to Pac Bay, is your choice between these two. But there are other factors in how rods cast other
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Looks to me like Pac Bay has taken the Quickline CCS data out of their catalog. Too bad. I seem to remember that the Arctos fly rods are a little slower than the Quickline. The Quickline 8 is a very nice bonefish rod, a beautiful gloss black blank. I have CCS data on it, but not the Arctos.
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Jonathan and I are all set on the wrapper, so sorry to those who didn't get it.
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Johathan, get me your address asap and I can get it out this week.
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Johathan, get me your address asap and I can get it out this week.
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Jonathan, it's yours. I believe my email is available, but if not respond here and we'll get together. I will not be able to ship until early Feb.
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I tried to offer a Batson Hand Wrapper free to the first new builder who wanted it, but couldn't get through the ridiculous "i'm not a robot protocol" in the buy/sell. So I'm offering it here. Let's save this opportunity for the first NEW BUILDER who will pay only shipping to get it.
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Generally rods will be tip heavy. If you place the reel far enough forward to balance on most blanks you will have it snagging on your elbow with certain techniques. I just build for techniques and ergonomics and the balance ends up what it is. I never add weight to the butt. I did that a long time ago and when I got it to balance it would almost torque out of my hand when casting (admittedly
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If you will be fishing with a lot of clothing on you need to make sure the butt doesn't snag your clothing at your elbow.
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I have a Quickline 8 and my sona Quickline 6. I've used both, mostly on bonefish. Both cast well, both do well with bonefish. No experience with MHX. The 8 was built with single foot wire guides, the 6 with snakes. Notice the high ERN's of both which indicate both probably will cast better up one line weight. Thanks Spencer for the tip on MHX data, learned something today.
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I have a Quickline 8 and my sona Quickline 6. I've used both, mostly on bonefish. Both cast well, both do well with bonefish. No experience with MHX. The 8 was built with single foot wire guides, the 6 with snakes. Notice the high ERN's of both which indicate both probably will cast better up one line weight. Thanks Spencer for the tip on MHX data, learned something today.
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Ask MHX for their CCS data, then compare to the published Quickline data.
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For the short distances of a small stream a 3wt line is probably better than a 2. Most fly rods are higher power than advertised.
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The blank Spencer is recommending is an actual designed blank, ;not a cobble job that might work and might not. Only $30 with very little risk. I don't think it gets much better than that.
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While the pre-made handles look great at a distance, if you look closely you'll find that they are filled. At least that is what I have found. The best looking cork IMHO is found on some burl cork rings that have a mix of large and small chunks. They look great with something like Tru Oil on them, or really beautiful with wrap epoxy on them. Use split grips and the weight difference will be s
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I agree on decals, but from the perspective of blank design, ferrules are so good now that I would like more varieties of "travel blanks." I just made a Rainshadow 7 foot 3 piece RX6 spin rod with natural cork split grip, a size 17 seat, Fuji CC KLH guides, a wonderful action, good power, and it came in just under 4 oz. Proving that if the blank were a higher mod blank with titanium g
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I'm with Roger. In theory he is right, and there is no practical aspect of the casting that would compromise the theory. I have read that a spiral wrapped rod can result in the line going straight from the reel to the tiptop, but I've never been able to make that happen.. My simple spiral rods cast well, so I expect from a fisherman's perspective , there isn't a perceivable difference . But
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I'm with Roger. In theory he is right, and there is no practical aspect of the casting that would compromise the theory. I have read that a spiral wrapped rod can result in the line going straight from the reel to the tiptop, but I've never been able to make that happen.. My simple spiral rods cast well, so I expect from a fisherman's perspective , there isn't a perceivable difference . But
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I used a hand wrapper that I made for many years and did fine with it. But when I got an American Tackle base, supports,and thread "carriage" (I think that's what it's called), it really made wrapping easier. The setup better supported the rod blanks, wraps at the limber ends of the blank were easier. Note that I didn't get a motor. I am with those who have no need for power for al
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I used a hand wrapper that I made for many years and did fine with it. But when I got an American Tackle base, supports,and thread "carriage" (I think that's what it's called), it really made wrapping easier. The setup better supported the rod blanks, wraps at the limber ends of the blank were easier. Note that I didn't get a motor. I am with those who have no need for power for al
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If the rods are telescoping rods be sure you don't put the first guide too close to the grip, thus preventing the rod from telescoping all the way and possibly having the upper section hard against the first guide.
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Do an internet search for "Toronto, Ontario custom rod builder"
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Looked at Winn grips? They are used on many heavier duty rods. If you're looking for the cork look, they obviously won't be for you, but they do work very well. Much better grip than cork under all conditions (wet/cold especially).
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Consider using a premium material tiptop, like SIC, as that is the guide that will groove first. I have had grooved tiptops, but never a grooved guide other than the tiptop. I like the Fuji casting setup, too. The 6 mm RV works fine.
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Adding to Mark's note, one can use electrical tape under applied with lots of stretch instead of plastic, just make sure to have something like decal backing between the tape and the blank to prevent any possible transfer of gummy residue. I like it better than wraps because I don't have a motorized wrapper and the thread sometimes leaves little "ridges."
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