So, I decided to give this idea a shot. Got a decent pen with three extra-fine nibs and two bottle of Dr martin Bombay India ink. one of black and one of white. Been experimenting on a scrap blank; one that is raw unfinished graphite. The main problem will be solved with further practice, and a reduction in coffee intake. My question is about the ink itself. When dry, both the black and white ink
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You are into what is becoming known "Bait Finesse" territory; finesse baitcasting gear. If you have the scale to do it, weigh the bait / hook combinations you want the use, and buy a blank that will load with the lightest of those weights. I've almost finished one for myself. It's a Rainshadow Immortal blank, from their walleye series; 7'2" medium light power, fast action spinning
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If you want the top shelf rotary tool, check out a Foredom. 1/6hp, reversible, foot speed control, and a small chuck separate from the large motor. You hang the motor, and use the flex cable connected chuck to do the work. Very nice piece of gear. Higher price than a Dremal, but a lot more capability.
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I have mine in a ziplok bag. Close to six months after opening for the first time, and it's still very usable.
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Thanks Tom. That is what I suspected, but, since I've not yet done the experiment, I thought I would throw it out there and see what more experienced people thought.
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Thank you, Mr Kirkman. This is a site I visit almost every day. Being a newbie to the craft, I'm always amazed by the number of truly gifted people who are willing and able to answer each and every dumb question I've asked. I also have to say that this may very well be the most "civil" site on the web. The people here are the most polite and respectful group of folks anywhere online.
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I've been thinking about this. The only idea i've had is to apply the CP to only the bottom of the wrap, with the guide on top. Then wait to see if the CP will wick up the thread. Maybe some heat applied to the top would help the wicking action, maybe not. I haven't tried this yet. It on on my list of things to experiment with. Being a newbie, my procedures are far from being set in stone. But
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Being a total newbie at this, I should stay out of this conversation, but discretion has never been one of my long suits. I've been using Flexcoat, both regular and lite. I apply the lite first, to get a thin penetrating coat. I've followed the tutorial on Flexcoat's website, with one small modification. They use a heat gun to warm up the first coat. I bought an infrared lamp to do the same t
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A special thanks to Mr Steve Mcleod. You hit the nail directly on the head. I stripped the top thread, sanded down, and applied a fresh thin coat of epoxy. After re-wrapping, burnishing, pulling out the sacrificial, and applying CP using Steve's method, everything is great. I even used the thread I resued from the trash; after doing a test wrap, of course. Thank you sir. I've been lurking o
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Thank you Steve. I did indeed apply the CP lengthways. I need to now rescue that spool of thread from the trash, and give it a test wrap.
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After pulling out the sacrificial thread, I applied a coat of cp. At that point I did not notice anything wrong. Went back this morning, and found what looked like an extreme amout of fuzzies in the gaps, obliterating in places the underwrap threads. It really appeared to be fuzz from the top wrap thread which was still in place. Was not the color of the sacrificial thread. I used medium blue
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I've reworked the spacing with another static test and have a better layout? Also put the stripper at 22" from the reel face. I now have almost 12" to make the transition from top to bottom. Thanks for the help gents. GK
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Thanks for the replies gents. Roger; this is a spiral wrapped rod. Sorry for not making that clear. I've never placed a stripper guide 24" from the face of the reel, which is why I asked the question. I'll give that a shot. Some test casting will tell me if that location is OK. I'll also do as Ken suggested, and revisit the static testing to see if I got that wrong. Bill, I've done a l
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I'm setting up a new rod for a friend of mine. A 7' MHX crankbait blank trimmed down to 6'7". I have the stripper guide 20" from the face of the reel; a Record 50. Static testing places a running guide about 4" in front of the stripper. This is heavy power, mod-fast action rod which will be used mostly for small swimbaits, but will see regular duty fishing for striped bass. I'm sur
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Don, a question for you. If the need to remove a guide arises, how difficult is it to do so when Permagloss is used as a first coat?
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Being a rookie, you can take my comments with a grain of salt, but I like it. I've completed two builds, one with a holo wrap in the split. It cuts clean, leaves no fuzzies, burnishes nicely, packs tight, and accepts finish readily. The holo wrap really popped. I was going for something a bit more subtle, but it looked good enough I left it.
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I'm learning something from all the replies. Thanks gents. An extra thanks to Kerry, whoever you are for taking the time to shoot me an email. Kerry mentioned that I should put the hardener in the cup first, but did not say why. Any thoughts?
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I just ordered parts for my next build. I will call them and see if they can Add some syringes to the order. I've been doing process control design / engineering / programming for almost three decades. Looks like the nerd in me is trying to sneak out of work and into my hobby. LOL thanks guys for putting him in his place.
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Thanks gents. Tom; point taken about what's cheap and what isn't. It was an experiment. I know my little scale is more accurate than eyeballing a measuring cup, so I will be doing more experimenting, doing the math as Fred suggested. I don't have syringes, but I will have to aquire a supply if i can't get the scale to work. I won't be applying any weighed mixes to actual builds until I get it wor
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On my last build, when I put on the final coat over a tiger wrap, I did an experiment. I wanted only a small batch, so I weighed it. 1.5 grams each, resin and harder. I have a very accurate small scale, recently checked against calibration weights, so I believe the scale It looked ok, but was still a bit tacky after 24 hours. After weighing the individual components, the hardener is about 14% li
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I've built two spinning rods using Microwave guides. I'll be building a spinning rod for myself later this spring, and I will use these guides on my own rod. I think that says enough.
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I used it on my latest build. Don't like it. I intended to put it in file13, but after reading David's comment, I think I'll keep it around for quick repair work. It may be just the thing for that application. Biggest, and for me the only pro; it penetrates nicely. The first coat fixes the thread to the blank and seals the tunnels nicely. Possible pro for some apps; it sets up very quickly.
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Don't know if it's been discussed here, but I use paste wax on my guides for winter trout trips. It doesn't prevent icing, but, a quick knuckle rap just above the reel seat will knock the ice off most of the time.
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Bill, I have several casting rods with Recoils guides, and they are excellent, but can be noisy when using braided line. I don't use braid, so I have no problem with them. The single foot with V you mentioned: I think you're refering to fly guides. Those might be ok on a spinning rod, or a spiral wrapped casting rod, but not on top. You'll be better off with these;
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Thanks gents, I haven't heard of the foil trick. I'll give it a shot. The blank has just had it's second 24 hour application. the citristrip had dried to an uneven white coating; sort of looked like white chocolate covered pretzels. I scraped it off with a plastic putty knife, and almost none of the finish came off. I'm using the spraycan version. Sprayed it on as thick as I could get it. Had
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I've been trying to remove the finish from a Loomis Bronzeback rod. This is something I've never attempted. Never been interested in a complete rebuild, but this is a "special" project. The first attempt, I left the citristrip on for two hours; no results. Then four hours; no results. Then eight and then 24 hours; still no results. All I've managed to do is dull the finish slightl
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I've been looking at those, but haven't yet pulled the trigger. How do they compare to other options in terms of weight? I relly don't care for a long rear handle, and if these are a bit heavier they could help balance a shorter rear grip setup.
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Thanks Tom. Glad to know I didn't hallucinate the database into existence. This would be a great thing to either revive or start anew.
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Is there a database or spreadsheet containing common cents measurements. I was sure there was one listed here. Or did I just dream iit?
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Thanks for the super fast response.
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