Thanks gents. The cork is glued up and turned down just enough to get rid of the irregularities. I'm thinking of trying to turn a very shallow channel in the cork, at the wrapping points, and filling it in with Permagloss to give me a base for the wraps.
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Working on a "government" project for my brother. He found this old blank; who knows where. Feels like fiberglass, light power, maybe ultra light. It has a graphic of an eagle holding a rod in it's claws with the words Fenwick Woodstream just above the rod. To the right of that it has the word BLANK in a box, with SP 812 under the box. I'm red/green color blind, but it looks to be a med
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Corn Dog Customs. I like it. Is it fair to assume you'll be building rods for dork fish?
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My two fifths of a nickel's worth. While I'm a rookie rod builder, I've been servicing and tuning reels for a long, long time. The Curado is a nice little reel, particularly the E series. But, using one for this application is taking a knife to a tank battle.
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Thanks Russ. Your comments led me to do some research. Found a good article, with everything I didn't know I didn't know, and was to dumb to ask. I know now what I need to do to correct the environmental conditions which are the root cause of my problem.
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Steve Gardner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't build "custom rods" > I build finely tuned precision instruments, that > perform better then anything else they can get > their hands on > If they choose to call them custom rods that is > fine. > I call them tools specifically built to perform > with a higher degree
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > To keep me busy and out of my wife's way! And it's something I've discovered that I like doing.
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Well, wasn't that easy looking. I can see I've been spending way too much time on this task. Thank you, sir.
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I hesitate to post this, because what I found may very well be a fluke, but here it is. I recently posted in another thread about amine blush. I had a bad case it appear on a particularly nice holo wrap. The nicest looking one I've been able to do so far. After reading more about this issue I decided to sand it down lightly, using 2000 grit. Then washed it with Dawn and water, and rinsed it ve
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Winn grips are not heavy, at least the one I've used was not. I put a full length rear grip on a casting rod. Before installing I weighed it and a same length cork grip. The Winn grip was lighter than the cork grip.
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Alist air, I use an infrared lamp for this purpose. I made a mistake and bought a 150W lamp. Way to much energy for this application? This thing will make almost cured finish run like water. It is not a set it and walk away piece of gear. If and when it burns out, I will get a much lower power lamp.
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Spot on advice once again from the people on this site. I ran my little dehumidifier for a couple of days. Removed and re-wrapped the guides; leaving the holo wrap in front of the reel seat. After getting the space up to about 76 degrees, I put on two coats of flex coat lite on the guide wraps, about four hours apart, and it's looking good. No blush, no oil-on-water appearance. Russel, I just
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I'm assuming it's not the alcohol, but the denaturing agent, which would cause fisheyes. I've made that mistake. What would be wrong with using Everclear instead of DNA?
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Thanks again folks. I have an IR lamp I can use to pop bubbles. I need to be a bit more diligent about not having bubbles in the first place. I'm getting better at that, but still get a few.
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Thanks again Ross. I've ordered the back issue you recommended. When I get some good looking results I'll put up some pics, and give you the credit for making it possible. I'm still amazed by the number of people on this site ready, willing and able to help a rookie.
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Ross, thank you. I saw one in the pics of your work that is just what I'm looking for. Is info on the process in Rodmaker magazine? And is a copy of that issue available? Or is the process one of your closely guarded secrets? Sorry for asking, if it is.
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I've been experimenting with this for a little while. I'm not so sure at this time if this is something i really want to pursue. But, a friend of mine sent me some pics. Not his rod, and not his work. Not sure where they came from. The marbling(I think that's what it was) did not show the typical swirls. etc. It had a very nice subtle effect; looking quite a bit like clouds. That would be som
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Thanks again everybody. I have my little rod workshop in a small cabin I recently acquired. It has a small AC unit and a small gas fired ceramic heater. I run one or the other only when I'm there. The problem I'm having is a recent one, basically since it has become quite a bit cooler and damper here in the middle of Illinois. Low temps and humidity in the cabin seems to be the problem, and an
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I like it except for the rod blank selection piece of the puzzle. It seems to be a lot faster than the old site. Kudos. my only suggestion would be to add the ability to select a series within each manufacturer. I went to look for a particular St Croix stick, and wanted to just see the SCIV line. I did not see a way to make that selection.
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I've had a similar problem lately, and have been thinking about posting it. I'm not getting a hazy / smoky / milky appearance. I'm getting a almost an oil on water effect. It doesn't show up in the mixing cup, and doesn't show up when applied to the wraps. It appears right around the time I'm done hand turning, and ready to start the dryer. It will be there when the finish has cured, and does not
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I'll second the difficult to ream part. I've installed exactly one Winn grip; a full length rear grip 8" long. It had a tenon on each end. One just perfect for the matching Winn butt cap, and one too long to fit the reel seat. When I trimmed it the razor blade went through the tenon so easily I had the idea that this thing is going to be way too soft to last very long. I was wrong. It was
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Thanks for all the replies gents. And a tip o' the hat to Mr Powell for the detailed answer. I make very few comments on this site. Being new to this craft, I have little or nothing to add to any conversation. But, I always get good answer to questions I post. I've come to depend on this place for answers. You guys are the best. I really like Fuji thread. I've had very good results using it, b
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I've read and heard conflicting information. Is the thread treated with silicone, or some other lubricant? I've heard yes. I've heard no. Thought I'd ask the experts on this forum. Thanks
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Randolph Ruwe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sorry Gary, just couldn't help myself. The devil > made me do it!! LOL I'm familiar with that myself. LOL
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Randolph Ruwe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Fishing!! Dang! Why didn't I think of that.
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Got a box full of misc old stuff from my brother. Included is a set of guides. Mildrum Carboloy spinning rod set. No. 530. One SMRC-14, one SMRC-12, one SMRC-10 and two SMRC-8 guides stapled to a red cardboard card. What in the world would these be good for?
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I'd like to try one of those seats. But. Glue in some sort of tube; glue in an arbor; then glue it all to the blank? Three possible failure points is what that brings to mind. Although, as Mr Weber suggests, an acrylic or stabilized wood insert would look very nice. And truly custom. Back to the point. What were they thinking? Why not properly sized ID dimensions? I don't get it.
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Mike Bradford Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I like the Dr. Ph. Martin's Iridescent inks. I > have used the "Black Sparkle", Iridescent White, > Iridescent Silver, Copper, and some others. These > inks thin and clean up with alcohol. You don't > need CP. The great thing is they really glow in > the sunlight. I saw those w
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Correct again, Roger. There was still some material on the bottom of the jar. After stirring well, and a nice shake, the dried inscription looks quite bit more even in appearance. at this point I've written all over the butt end of a Setyr blank I have set aside for myself. I like the white better than black. It just seems to flow better and look smoother. Now to experiment with Cp and finish. I
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Thanks gents. One more stupid question. I had to shake the snot out of it to get even results. Is this normal, or did i get some really old stock? It was on sale after all.
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