Roger, I’m liking your concept. Build for the tallest reel. Why didn’t I think of that? Couldn’t see the forest for the trees. Again. In my case, my casting reels do not get swapped to different rods often. My smallest reels get spooled with the lightest line, and get mounted on the lowest power rods. And they pretty much stay there. The largest reels get the heaviest line, and go on the heaviest
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I remember reading a short article in Rodmaker, penned , I believe, by Mr Kirkman, deling with this very subject. I do not have my stock of magazines on hand right now, so I can’t look it up. This article suggested a distance for the stripper of 14-16” from the reel face, for casting rods. Don’t remember exactly, but I seem to recall the 14-16” spacing was a starting point to be used with rods
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Glad to hear you got your warning, and suffered no damage receiving it. I think we all need to hear a warning on a regular basis. Power tools are dangerous, and complacency is what bites us when we least expect it.
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I have two things that helped me a lot with this problem. We all have single edge razor blades, which get too dull for thread work. I use these to keep rings in place after cutting. Make one cut, and insert a blade straight down into jig. Use one on each side. I run mine over a hone to knock down the edge. The blade may be too dull for thread work, but is still sharp enough to cut your fingers.
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Mark, I believe you can find what you want here:
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Thanks, gents, for the help. I had looked at Batson’s recipe for their centerpin rod blanks. All specified spinning guides. I then looked at Mudhole’s recommendations for their centerpin blanks. They listed a guide set, which I could not find anywhere. I did find two of their guide sets with the same name, with only the final number different. They were casting guides. After a long chat with my b
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I have a rule I made for myself about rodbuilding: do not build a rod to be used for any kind of fishing for which I have no experience. Well, I am about to violate that rule , for a friend, and try my hand at a centerpin rod. Have been doing some research into this. And I have almost enough info proceed. He has picked the blank. We are discussing grips and seat. I think I have a handle on everyt
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Mark, have you logged in to the photo pages?
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Thanks. Knew I would get an answer here. But, what’s the point? I’m guessing this knock off system produces different numbers. Why would anybody want multiple systems, producing different results, for this? Rather defeats the point, does it not?
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I am always reading something, particularly about rod building. I have seen the term RDA being used. For example; RDA = xxxgrams. I assume intrinsic power was what was meant. I do not remember seeing RDA in any of the CCS articles. Where did this term originate?
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Thanks. Double it is for the 90° guide. Initial plan is for stripper, bumper and first bottom runner to be double foot. Then two or three of the stouter Fuji “belly” guide. KB series, I think. Then BLAGs to the tip. Lance: not sure what I will use this rod for. I won the blank at the last ICRBE. I fish for bass, trout, walleye and crappie, in that order. The numbers on this blank rule out the
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Starting a build using a blank of much higher power than normal for me. I use a simple spiral guide layout for my own rods. Due to the power of this blank, and it’s likely uses, I want to use double foot guides for at least the first few. The stripper and the first bottom runner will be double foot. Does the bumper guide also need to be double foot? For appearances sake, I may be tempted to say y
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Prowrap 813 Silver Shiner is what I’ve been told to try. i have a spool, but have not yet had a chance to try it. On the spool, it looks very close. Alps has some TC finished guides which match the blanks nicely.
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I have a blank in my possession made from carbon/prepeg produced by Ferrari. Yeah, that Ferrari. Does that actually mean anything? Beats me. But it sounds cool. The only other name I’ve seen mentioned is Toray. Some rod manufacturers tout that name in their propaganda. Oops, I mea marketing. Does that mean anything? Beats me. But it doesn't sound as cool as Ferrari.
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Well Tom, that is all I expected out of trying to determine lure weight range: a starting point. That is what I consider manufacturer ratings to be: a starting point. I know what my current quiver of rods are all good for, and I intend to continue taking measurements on those, as well as any new blanks come my way. I will be creating my own database of lure weight rating and comparing them to bot
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Actually, one of things I am doing is testing a “mystery” blank. At the last ICRBE, I won a blank at the Rodmaker reception. It is from an Italian manufacturer, Artico. It is a one of a kind prototype. The only info on it is a hand written note at the butt. It says Bass Light. That is the sum total of the information on this blank. They had another prototype, labelled Bass Strong. It was consider
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Robert A. Guist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello Tom. > > Thanks. > > I suppose I don't understand what question Gary is > asking then. > > > Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines. Thank you, Bob. That was indeed my first question. I had in my mind the idea that the CCS would give us a way to determine lure weight range
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I have at last made time to set up my CCS test rig, and have been testing all blanks I have on hand. And, have tested several finished rods; both factory rods and my own builds. Some interesting, and some intriguing results so far. After purchasing, and reading, and re-reading, the back issue of Rodmaker, which details tip power measurement; I have a couple of questions regarding the chart com
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Mine is in it's third year. No hint of a problem. Top shelf product.
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Probably that IM2000 stuff Andy Dear was fond of talking about.
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Sorry to hijack the thread, but could somebidy have Tod Dobberowski email me, please. gklmrtn@icloud.com I met himat the ICRBE this year, and I have a couple of wood samples that belong to him. Tell him I am the large dude with a lot of white hair, who won the Artico blank at the reception. He left the woo
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I know your pain. Had the same lovely experience. The only good luck in the whole mess was it was a rod I built for myself, so it got stuck in the rod rack while I worked on builds for other people. My rod rack holds 24 rods on each side, if no reels are mounted and it's nearly full most of the time. It seemed to me every time I went to the rack the first rod my eyes would go to was that one evil
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Forgive me if I spelled your name wrong. We met at the expo. Shoot me an email please. gklmrtn@icloud.com I have something that belongs to you.
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I agree with Roger on this. I turned a few cork grips on my Alps wrapper, then bought a small lathe. It works so much better, if you have the funds to get one. Got this one on sale at Amazon, $325 with free shipping. Beware though. I have more money in chucks, centers, mandrels, etc, that I have in the lathe. Look into pricing on all those items before making the decision. Know what you'
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Well, of you are not part of the solution, you may be the precipitate.
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Drywall tape is a mesh. It will fill the gaps you mentioned, and still allow epoxy to adhere to the blank. there are at least two different mesh sizes I've found. I have read that there three, but have never seen a third size. I over-wrap mine with a thread spiral, with thread spacing about the same as the mesh spacing.
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Thank you.
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The special rates for Expo attendees is not available. Is it possible all of the rooms reserved for this special rate have been booked?
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How about me? I learned another way to screw up a decal yesterday.
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