A plastic disposable putty knife is the best tool I've found for removing epoxy from a rod blank. Heat the epoxy with a hair dryer, then carefully remove the epoxy. You can put a fine scraper edge on one of these plastic wonders, 90 degrees to the flat side, with any sander.
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How about Garnet/Copper, or Green/Teal metalic.
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I build ultra - light spinning, that's 1kg. IGFA to 20lb premium line depending on the species fished for. Also flyrods up to 8wt. I would not presume to build a rod I won't fish with. And, yes, I know from experience that the Forhan locking wrap makes a rod wrapped with single foot guides more durable with very little effort and negligible weight.
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I use the Forhan locking wrap on each and every single foot guide I wrap without an exception. It just stands to reason to do all I can to make the best, most durable, most efficient fishing tool/toy I can, since I build mostly ''plain vanilla'' fly & spinning rods. "Oh, it takes too long", to do what, the best you can??? If you're not building the best rod you know how to build,
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I will go along with Jay on this one.
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I like and have used both Flex-Coat and graphite arbors, as well as cork and dry wall mesh arbors. I like these better than cork & drywall mesh, but cork is third. Many of you like Flex-Coat arbors the best, why? Graphite, why, why not?
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I've had too many rods brought to me to repair the reel seat and even the butt grip because the masking tape failed either by drying out and losing adhesion, or turning into a greasy, sticky mess. Drywall tape, graphite, cork, or Flex-Coat arbors all work very well.
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A cork or foam arbor is my first choice. A drywall mesh tape arbor is the only other good choice, IMO.
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I agree with Mike. I have a moderate action 7ft. 3wt. that I built with Alconite BLAG guides, a BUNAG #8J for the stripper, BLAG #7, and BLAG#6's to and for the tip. I test cast with single foot snakes and the Alconite and I find the weight difference negligible. This is a great small stream rod and IMO feels/casts better with the Alconite guides. With the cap & ring reelseat and cork ins
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I went to Office Depot or Max, I disremember which, and bought three 24 x 48in. folding tables and lined them up against the wall. Then I put a half sheet of white formica bath room paneling (24 x 96in.) in the center of the tables. This is my rodbuilding bench since 1996. If I remember right, it cost about $40. for all four parts. Before that I used the kitchen table.
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I've removed the pistol grip and added a 7 -10 in. rear grip with an extended section of scrap blank 2 to 3 in. inside of the blank the length of the new grip on more than a dozen rods. There are no returns yet. IMO 3 in. should be enough to insure a secure bond with this long a rod with the join under the reelseat. Make sure the tapers match or wrap the insert to get a good fit. I'd let the
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This is the webpage in my favorites. website home.html# Put it in without the spaces and... Good luck.
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A town business liscense, $50.00 yr. county liscense, state liscense. Plus a few simple forms. At least that's what I pay.
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That's right, Golden Witch sells one. I saw that one in the GW catalog and made my own with a Forstner bit and a few 1/4 in holes.
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It looks to me that John asked a serious question about a blank for a specific purpose, as so many of us have, and is being attacked for no reason except malice. None of this is pertinent except the question asked, " which blank would you suggest?" I build light & ultra-light spinning and light fly rods so I can't answer the question posed. This is a, no the best rodbuilding site on
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I looked at their grips & deminsions and build my own from rings I put a 6in. cigar, thick like the center part of a full wells with a cap & ring w/cork insert and a 1/8in. Copano ring spacer between the grip & reelseat. No, I didn't quite use their deminsions. IMO the short grip works in it's place.
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Thanks, Tom. That is what I wanted to learn.
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With a good thin kerf blade in the bandsaw (Timberwolf is a good brand) I/you can get three 1/8in. rings and a very thin one. I just got a new (to me) Delta bandsaw. I cut up about 25 rings into 1/8in. Sunday night for a couple of projects. It took about 15 minutes.
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Which do you prefer, the New Concept reverse drill bits or the Pilot drill bits by Flex Coat?
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What is the ring material?
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What is this "sour grape" garbage? "There is a lot of difference in bonding loose grit and backing paper to a glass or graphite shaft." No kidding! " So I guess I'm talking apples to your oranges."
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I am speaking from experience. My home made reamers last a long time. I've been making reamers from scrap blanks epoxy and loose grit since I learned how to make them here on site. I use a round file in a drill to ream the cork or arbors and finish by hand with the reamer. Or, I drill out the cork rings to the size of the biggest mandrel that is smaller than or the same size as the blank, epoxy t
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I use a low viscosity 2 - part epoxy for mine.
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I put the 0% butt guide 18 to 22 in. from the center of the reelseat, depending on the blank & reel, and use static distribution to position the rest of the guides as for a spinning rod at 180% and add the 90% guide on the same side as the reel handle. Done! Simple Spiral Indeed!!! I know this veers off a little bit from the article in RodMaker but this is what evolved in my mind & worksh
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I bought a Flex Coat 18 rpm. drying motor from Custom Tackle Supply and bent the metal frame back to the correct angle. Then I removed the chuck, took off the rubber collar and set it on a flat level spot. I epoxied a 1 oz. mixing cup in the center. I measure finish into a new 1 oz. cup and drop it into the permanent cup, drop in a 9/16 or 5/8 in. ball bearing and mix for 3 - 4 minutes. I pour t
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Yeah, and if you answer, there be a telemarketer or 'borrowing kin'. I use the dental floss threaders for Forhan locking wraps and 10 lb. PowerPro for other wraps. I tie a triple overhand loop in the powerPro and touch the knot with red nail polish to see it.
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I use 1/8in. and 1/4in. Pinstriping tape for my smaller & smallest single foot guides. I bought a roll in both sizes in '96 and haven't quite run out (60 yards each) yet.
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The question is: Is this thread waxed or otherwise lubricated, or not?
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I can see two decals bracketing the writing like bookends, each facing towards the writing or each facing away. Interesting.
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Apply by hand. Then dry on 16 or 18 rpm. Works best for me.
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