1st thing you need is patience, 2nd thing is a tolerance for frustration. 3rd is a lot of time for practice. And an understanding that this can be very addictive. You do one that turns out nice then you see something posted on the photo boards and you think I gotta try that one, and the you spend hours trying to figure how they did that. Then you have all these rods and your spouse thinks y
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Slower action rods tend to throw live bait better than a fast action rod, at least if you want to keep it on the hook. I would look at something fairly light in the 8-9 foot range, maybe even a fly rod tied as spinning rod.
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Read Mick's post again, those are real words of wisdom. I thought that the dryer/rotater was the best thing since sliced bread and it took me about 15 rods to limit how I use it. I hand turn for about an hour and make sure I go through the wicking process I put he rod in the dryer. My finish turns out flat and smooth and I don't wind up with footballs on the guide wraps.
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I wrap pretty darn tight, at least as tight as my guide wraps. I really don't like things popping up and out of place on a wrap, and yes it has happened while experimenting on how tight to wrap. Depending
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I have a jacobs chuck on a morse taper that fits in the headstock of my wood lathe. As a matter of fact I use it for all mandrel work.
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I went to the local hardware store and got the smallest O-Rings that they had and used them. Actually looked pretty good, and they were very reasonably priced.
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If it is really chilly in your work area give another 8 hours or so before you get to excited about this. Takes quite some time to cure epoxy when it get chilly.
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For those of you that don't live in the frozen tundra of the north. Keeping a house at +70 degrees in the dead of winter is a pricey proposition. Dropping the interior temp 5 degrees saves you roughly 25%(which can mean upto $500 or even more per year depending on insulation and sq. footage of the house) on your fuel bill. So....room temperature in my house in the winter months is around 65 d
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If you overheat it on the rod you will get a burst of micro bubbles. If you use heat be very careful of getting your epoxy too hot. I can cause more problems than you are trying to cure.
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I put it on very thick with a brush spreading it out lenghtwise. I put it on pretty darn thick and then let it sit and drip for a few minutes, wick off the droops, then if it is cold where I am applying the epoxy, I hit it with some heat while turing to make it flow a bit, let it sit for a few minutes, wick off the excess and repeat a few times( about an hour) put it in the dryer and let er spin
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I personally do all mine up locking, that way I don't have to have my hand/fingers on the locking nut or the threaded portion of the rod. I just think is is more comfortable over the course of a days fishing.
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1st thing that comes to my mind is, did you use color preserver and did you let it dry completely? 2nd is did you pack the threads tightly enough?
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Here is a link to St. Croix's online catalog, if you go down the page 2/3s of the way you will find the 2S70mlf you are looking for. You may need to ask your vendor again about whether he can get it or not.
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I just ordered 2-2s70mlf a couple weeks back and have them here. I can't imagine that they have been discontinued.
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I don't even use rings, just tape the reel on there and go.
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I have never heard of such a thing and I live in ice fishing country. Up here we usually just use a littel bit bigger guide for fishing outside in the winter so it doesn't ice up so fast.
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I have learned a lot about different techniques and have got a lot of inspiration from this site. Tom deserves a ton of praise for making this available to the rest of us. I wish I could be at the Expo, but alas it just ain't in the cards.
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My rule of thumb is, if when it is dry it your wraps look like a glazed donut, you have enough cp on them.
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I bought a cheap long extension desk type lamp that I bolted right to my thread tensioner, works great, bright light where ever I am wrapping.
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I have yet to try TM, but I can tell you one thing for sure, temp has a lot to do with bubbles in epoxy. When it is 80 degrees up here in the summer I can put the finish on and hand turn it for around and hour and have a flat bubble free (at least to the un-aided eye)finish, but winter(we keep the temp down to save $$$) when it is around 65 degrees in the house, if I don't use heat to help the e
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You may want to look at say heavy wt fly rod blank. Might be a little more on the moderate action but....it may do what you want.
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Mark shoot me an email, I may be able to help. Scott
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If taper offset spacing is used that wouldn't be the problem. It would be more of not packing threads evenly from pattern to pattern. I don't think I have ever had a pattern close totally evenly, but then I have not had one that couldn't be closed by some extra packing and burnishing.
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To add to what Mike wrote. I use the plungers in the cap and also turn the bottle upside down and push the plungers all the way in and let sit for about 5 minutes to be sure I won't pull any bubbles in to the syringes.
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I did one for a friend of my son a month or so ago for a trip he took to Canada for lakers I used St. Croix med hvy 7 foot and he said it worked out great.
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I have tried applying the finish while the rod is spinning in the dryer and the results have been very similar to what you say you are getting. I found that I get a better finish if I apply the finish to the rod and hand turn in for the 1st hour or so. That seems to let the finish spread and flatten much better. I turn 180 degrees about every 5 minutes or so at first and extend the time as a
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If I remember correctly I think it was posted that permagloss put over LS will not have a pleasing affect. Something about it virtually melting the LS or flex coat etc for that matter.
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St Croix 3S60UL, I did for a friend and he was really impressed. Light, fast and sensitive. What more could a guy ask for? Well other than to be tall, good looking and rich:-)
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I 2nd what Mike said. You really want to keep the thread and epoxy to a minimum on the guides, especially the further up the rod you go. I do a 3 wrap trim to each guide too. This is just food for thought, but I have built several spinning rods from 9 foot 7 to 8 wt fly rod blanks. I couldn't find anything else that had the action and weight that I wanted in that kind of length, everythin
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You could probably just replace the 1st two guides where they are with higher frame spinning type guides and a have a pretty well funtioning rod. I would not be a first choice for most but it would more than likely cast reasonably well. You would probably wind up being more tip heavy cuz of the extra guides that you normally have on a casting rod, but I think it would still work out OK, not per
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