I will never use rayon on a rod again either. Did one and that is enough for me!!! Not very strong and it does have the tendency even after packing it to death and several coats of CP goes translucent.
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I take 200 grit sandpaper to the guide foot after filing or grinding to smooth the foot a bit to allow packing the thread easier. I had the same issue of not being able to pack the thread very well(at least to my liking) before I started sanding the foot.
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I found a store in a town that we visit quite often and it has Mettler polysheen(polyester) in size 40 and I have been using alot of that and it work very well too, I am guessing it is very similar to Madiera. I tried rayon on one rod and will never used the junk again. Not very strong, frays easily, and even CP didn't seal it very well for some strange reason. I wouldn't touch the stuff, only
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I pull the thread all the way through, but when I trim the tag end, I pull the tag back toward the end of the wrap creating a little gap for the tag end to drop into, then a quick touch with the razor blade and it is all over with no little nubby sticking out.
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I would really think about your application with the brush and how you are doing it. I use a brush but I use it more as a scoop than a brush. I probably push it around more than actually brush it on, at least on the longer areas like butt wraps. The more you play with it trying to smooth it out by brushing the more problems you are going to make for yourself. I pretty much just glob it on th
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Exactly what Tim said. Pick a product, learn it's quirks and stick with what works.
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Here is a thread from another site where I gave someone a brief explanation of reversing chevron for someone. It has a few pics too.
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What I do is apply the epoxy and hand turn it if for the 1st hour or so, then put it in the dryer. I found I get a much better finish if I hand turn it for a while and let it sag a wick off the excess. For me I find the epoxy does it's leveling thing better when is sets still for a for a few minutes and gets to sag. When I tried putting in the dryer immediately I would droopy, wavey, sagging fi
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Jim thanks for taking the time to actually go through and weigh those guides. If find it pretty interesting, I wouldn't have figure the hardaloy to be lighter. So there is not really a lot of gain between standard SiC and the hardaloy. So if a guy wants a noticeable upgrade you gotta go to the real high end stuff.
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I know this has been discussed in the past, but I can't seem to find the thread about this. How much actual difference is there between the hardaloy type guides and the SIC guides. I want to keep the weight down but not if I am only going to see a real minimal/not noticeable gain. I appreciate any info on this Scott
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This may or may apply, but for me room temp is a huge item when it comes to bubbles. I have my work room in the basement and it is usually around 65 degrees f down there. I have found that at that temp bubbles won't release, so if I am going to be working with finish I put a heater in there and get the temp up to around 70 or so. Even then I have to either blow through a straw or use heat on t
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2 piece rods not standing up to abuse? Up here in Northern MN us Salmon and Steelheaders typically use a 7 to 9 weight fly rod to fish the rivers. The standard outfit would be one of those old Martin 72 multiplier spooled with 8# test mono and a 9' 8 wt fly rod. I can attest that these rods are not treated as anything resembling "delicate wands". I personally have used a 9' 8wt Fen
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If it is a lightweight rod, I would consider a Tennesee style handle and either use rings or tape on instead of real seat, that way can adjust to what works and feels best.
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Mick all I can say is I am glad that I am not the only one with bad luck that just won't quit. But I gotta say your experience is off the bad day scale.
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Welcome Marco, I looked at the work you posted and it is very nice work. I it good to see ideas from elsewhere.
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You should be able to open most word documents with Wordpad. You just may lose some formatting.
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How fast are you spinning that hole saw? I could see it tear and rip if you are running it too slow, I would try running the RPM way up there.
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Thanks Mike!!
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Here is a link to a rather small blank that I did star pattern on with Mettler 40.
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As far as the ball of tape you are running into the best thing to do is to use double face carpet type tape. The creeping threads is more or less something of a too much tension...they want to slide away from the cross over points. Since I want my wraps to look flat, even and tight I just pack threads more often and live with it.
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Are you saying you have a chuck without the morse taper shank to put in headstock or tailstock? I am not sure you can buy it seperately, at least I couldn't find it at Harbor Freight, or by a quick google search. I would try calling Harbor Freight and explain to them what you are needing, they may be able get you one or may allow you to swap what you did get for one that has the morse taper sha
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Heck we were out ice fishing on Saturday and the ambient temp was -25 before the 20 MPH wind. Don't even want to know what the wind chill was. When you are talking about epoxy and cold temps not flowing out evenly it is not just how warm it is when you mix it, it cools pretty rapidly while you are applying it and won't flow out very well from there. That is why you hear of people from the n
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One thing you can try is to clear all your temporary internet files and dump the cookies too. We run into this all the time at work. And yes IE7 will have some bugs in it for a while. One rule of thumb with all Microsoft products is wait until they release service pack 1 before you go with any of their products.
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If your wraps have the look of a glazed donut, you have enough CP and anything after that point will be pretty much a wasted effort.
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If your wraps have the look of a glazed donut, you have enough CP and anything after that point will be pretty much a wasted effort.
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I am a hobby builder who manages to sell a few rods or so a year. I am not in it to make any real money, just cover the cost of building and support my own needs for rods. Which means I usually just double the cost of materials taxes and shipping no matter what I have into it for time. And if it is for a family member or close friend I do close to free. There is no doubt this may change if I
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Be very careful you don't sand into the thread, if you do you it will give new meany to the word fuzzies.
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One thing to consider is that not all wood has the same density and mass. I work with some wood that it pretty dang light and is not very much heavier than cork of the same size. But if you are talking the real dense hard woods, I agree that the weight would be a damper.
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Done a couple of them and they work very well. Like it has been said earlier, they are bit slower so you casting action will be a bit different. But on the other hand they are great for casting live baits, you are not so apt to cast the bait itself off.
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I put a light scribe/scratch for my layouts. If it just scratches the surface of the finish you ain't gonna hurt anything and believe me it will never bleed.
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