This is a little better angle on the handle assembly. Box elder and a nickel silver reel seat. I need a digital camera with macro for this stuff.
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Here is a handle assembly I turned and put together. The wood is Box Elder and the grain is red. Nickle silver skeleton reel seat from Rainshadow.
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This is the 2nd attempt at this wrap on this rod. 1st one blotched so bad had to cut it off. Somewhat different colors too.
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Something failed in sealing process.
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CRTA 11 for a woman friend. The picture doesn't do the colors justice, I need a better camera or find a better way to photograph closeups. I took over 20 pics and finally gave up.
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Maple handle on a Med Light Walleye rod. Kinda tell I live in Walleye country?
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Another handle on a Med Light Walleye rod.
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Semi Spalted Birch handle on a Med Light Walleye rod.
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My 1st and so far only stab at a butterfly wrap.
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Did this 7 foot Med light walleye rod.
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spider close up.
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Hand made wood handles 3 birch and one maple.
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I have done some pretty light colors on guide wraps with good success. The only way i can get it to work out well is to make sure I wrap as tight as I dare and to pack the threads to the point of packing about every 3rd turn. I also make sure I fill the guide tunnels with CP. I then put on the CP until the the wraps look like a glazed donut. You really need to make sure you fill in anything
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Probably a great site, but I can't get it to load. I go there and I get the following message Network Timeout The server at www.batsonenterprises.com is taking too long to respond. The requested site did not respond to a connection request and the browser has stopped waiting for a reply. * Could the server be experiencing high demand or a temporary outage? Try again
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St Croix SC111 is a great blank, and I really like the med lites they have. Depending on the application they work great, I have made more than a couple for Walleye fishing for myself and others.
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If you can move the guide, it is not completely sealed with epoxy. It doesn't take a whole lot of a crack or gap to wick moisture into the threads and turn the CP milky looking. I have tried the very little extra epoxy past the threads for neatness thing and wound up with similar problems. Gotta make sure everything is sealed up well or you run into issues.
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Another thing to make sure is that you have the chuck tight on the mandrel, if it loosens up it will slip in the chuck and allow the center to slip out of the mandrel. I worked in a machine shop for 10 years and I really don't think a 3/8" shaft would flex enough to allow a thoroughly snugged up and tightened down center to slip out of the mandrel. I would take a good look at your center
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On fly rods and ultra lites, I go with 2 coats and just enough to not have the texture of the thread showing through.
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I work with a guy who makes very high end Bamboo rods. He uses on varnish the threads, no epoxy, his standard are as thin as possible and still protect the threads, no buildup. I think he said something like 5 coats.
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4 axis, +1 on one side split diamond. Not as complex as it looks. Hardest thing is keeping track of where you are with the different start points.
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Les I am using classic coat, not sure if it supposed be thinned but I thin in a little and just put on an extra coat or 2. I believe(and that is what counts) that I get better coverage that way. I know others say one coat of unthinned is enough, but it seems every time I try that I get a tiny blotch or 2. I have not had the thinned and multiple coats fail me yet. Me, I put tension on the sp
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I wrap as tight as I feel as I can without damaging the blank with the guide foot. I am also compulsive about packing threads. I pack all the way around about every 4th wrap. I thin my CP a little and apply at least 2 coats to be sure is seals the thread completely. All it takes is a slight gap in CP coverage and you will have a blotch. I have done white and yellow Mettler polyester(equivale
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Thanks for the tips guys, I now have a few things to try to see if I can make it work better.
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Thanks Duane....I will try that next time. Gotta work better than what I have been doing.
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It sounds like the heat is the only thing I skipped. Does it kinda activate the adhesive?
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OK...I know I am doing something wrong here. I have more darn problems with decals. Mostly with the edges pulling up. I just did a stick on Mermaid decal and although it will be fixable, one edge of the decal pulled up a bit when I put the epoxy on. I put the thread on CPed it and put a coat of epoxy on let is setup overnight until cured. Washed my hand and made sure I didn't touch th
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When I am going light over dark I wrap as tight as I dare on the guides and pack, pack, pack the threads. I alway put at least 2 coats of CP on threads to be sure I have no gaps or thin spots in coverage.
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Couple things come to mind, tension, packing or not enough CP.
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I have on occasion had a small spot on a wrap that had a little dark spot since I switched to a different brand of CP. This stuff is a bit thicker than what I am used to so it could be a penetration thing. I may try to thin this stuff a little and see how it goes. I know there are those that say CP should and will seal in one coat, but my experience so far is if I thin it and go with 2 or 3
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Whew!! I have that same blank(ISB822.5) on order and for the fishing that I do 1/8 to 1/4 ounce jigs is about all I use. You had me really worried that I was going to have to build it for someone else who uses heavier baits.
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