Sory to hear about your dad, hope he's doing better. If you decide you need to let loose of his rod building equipment I'd recommend you look for someone that teaches rod building to kids and make a donation. It could possibly qualify as a tax writeoff and even if it doesn't your dad will be contributing to a legacy that will outlive both of you.
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Selling Price minus Cost of Materials equals Gross Profit Dollars (GP$) GP$ divided by Selling Price equals Gross Profit Margin (GP%) Cost of Materials plus Operating Costs equals Net Cost Selling Price minus Net Cost equals Net Profit Dollars (NP$) NP% divided by Selling Price equals Net Profit Margin (NP%) Allocation of Operating Costs to Jobs can most easily be done based on Hours to
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There is some good direction in this topic from a few years ago...
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Scott, your email is hidden. On the Ranger rod you asked about above I put the white decal directly on the blank in the split grip area and over the wraps on the guides and ferrule. I measured the split grip area to get the retangular size and account for taper. I then layed out the print area as a box in a regular word processing program; printed a plain paper test run (photo setting) and cut
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I find the white decal paper to be much easier to work with than regular photo paper. The decals are thinner and wrap around the blank more neatly and the edges stay down.
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I fixed Freddy's fingers on a Holloween costume :)
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The material inside the ferrule tool is a drawer liner (contact paper, sticky mat, shelf liner); sticky cloth-like material that is intended to lay flat in the bottom of drawers to keep stuff from sliding around as you open and close the drawer. It's available at most hardware stores, kitchen speciality shops, etc. I'll fo through my magazines to look for the article.
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You can try a ferrule tool... there's a Rodmaker article on making them too
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Until you get a few thick coats of CP on it will seal the wraps but leave the tunnels open to fill with a needle as mentioned above. When I do the needle method I like to try flooding the tunnels as much as I can from one side so the air can escape out the other side. I also find that permagloss gets into the tunnels easier than epoxy but it does need a few applications.
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I like the aero seats and have played around with carbon fiber on expanding foam grips, very comfortable... Jim Hicks
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Don't forget; as you're wrapping the white thread, wash your hands well and often.
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Like Raymond, I'll use different tension methods depending on what I'm doing. Hand tension is fine if you aren't wrapping something complicated that requires three hands. Keep in mind that if you tension the thread between your fingers then you're greatly increasing the chances of getting oils, grease, and other contaminants on the thread. Running thread through a phone book works well but any
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Try a golf grip... They're a good length for rod holders, tougher than nails, very inexpensive, and you have loads of options for colors and themes.
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I set a 100w incandescent lamp about 6" away and let it heat up the first wrap while I mix up the epoxy. When applying the epoxy to the first wrap I just slide the lamp down to the next wrap.
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I've built only freshwater rods, none too heavy, so I've rarely had any problems with cracking. Where I have had cracking I've found that a toothpick tip of Permagloss touched to the crack will fill it up nicely. You can try turning your cracking problem into a "Value added service". Explain to the customer hoe the cracking is inevitable. Tell them that at the end of the season they
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Kids Rod Length... Long enough that they don't poke themselves in the eye when they set the hook and short enough that they can get through the front door without closing it on the tip :) Angel Wrap... Angel: Thunderbird: If you look at the thunderbird and the angels you'll see where the pattern is the same with a minor exception on the shape of the wings. The outside edge of the wing
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Fiberglass blanks are available from most of the sponsors listed on this site. You could easily cut one down to whatever size you need. A few tips on building kids rods... For kids I prefer an "Underspin" reel; similar to the familiar old pushbutton classic but the underspin is attached to the underside of the blank instead of on top. This makes it easier for a small kid to ho
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If the spreadsheet is tat nice then you should check with Raymond Adams to see if he could add it to his Rod Builder's Library...
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As you're packing make sure you check the alignment of your crossover points; they should run straight along the long axis of the blank. I have a tendancy to push the crossover points to the right and doing this on one pattern leaves a bigger gap on one side than the other. Even if you could be consistent with always pushing the same amount to one side you would end up with more gap on the up-w
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Ref: I may eliminate the red altogether. I was working on marbelizing flames and searched the web for different techniques used by guys that put flames on motorcycles and such. Most of the sites mentioned that there really isn't any red in a flame; there may be a yellowish white hot base quickly turning to yellow and then orange. Flames are most usually viewed in the dark and the transparent o
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For larger guide wraps where I want to showcase some fancy threadwork I think epoxy gives a better appearance. On small running guides and tip tops I use PG and am extreamly happy with its convenience and durability; it just doesn't have the glasslike smoothness of epoxy.
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I'm certainly not a guru but I'll throw in my opinion anyway :) I agree with Fred about mixing metallics in a fade; the contrast would be too much to look like a fade. I would suggest using either a single wrap of metallic to give a gleam to the edge of a regular nylon pattern or perhaps you could get away with a metallic pattern and one or two wraps of regular nylon as a shadow for a 3D effect
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Why wouldn't you just swap out the 3's and 4's for 5's or whatever smallest size will work with your line and the knots you need to pass?
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Ask your Marine friend to get you a bunch of uniform buttons. They look great when epoxied into the butt cap. Hooah!
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Third arm growing out of your chest... and amtridextrous?
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As already mentioned, some folks like the feel of the minima seat and some do not. I do not. I built on a minima seat and ended up making a "hump" for it so I could use the rod... The Aero seats mentioned above are my personal favorite for the freshwater rods I use. I don't believe the small difference in weight would make any difference in the sensitivity considering it's locate
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On split grips I find that a butt grip shaped kinda like a bowling pin is very comfortable... With expanding foam and some pigments you could easily make it look just like a bowling pin. Do a similar shape at the reel seat and number the pins 7 & 10 for a real split grip :) Riley Rods in the sponsor list could fix you up with the expanding foam materials I know Mudhole amongst other
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Thanks. I'll check out the Hercules and give the Capt a call.
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A friend of mine wants a rod for her father. He fishes the New Jersey shore, pleasure boat, vertical jigging squid for flounder. She couldn't tell me much more other than the rod he has now was his grandfathers and it's been splinted and duct taped many times over. He doesn't like to use the rod holders; says the rod in one hand balances the beer in the other so he doesn't tip over. Spinning
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Raymond Adams maintains a Rod Builder's Library and there's an Excel TOS utility in there under the chapter for Threadwork
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