The more I use the CCS the more I like it as a starting point on determining which blank to use. The real missing component, which actually measures the dynamic properties of the blank is the CCF. Unfortunately, there is very little information on CCF rating for different blanks. Also, due to the way it is measured, there is a lot of room for error if you don't have the right equipment and kno
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I use Birchwood-Casey Tru Oil, which can be found at most gun stores. I only use it on burl - cork mixed grips to bring out the contrast. I don't use anything on solid cork grips.
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I haved used the Alps SS316 for saltwater fly rods. The only one I have had a problem with was the PVD TiCH coated ones. I later learned this particular coating was not recommended for salt. They are great in the TC or polished SS316.
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I use Fuji Alconites on almost all of my inshore spinning rods. I've never had a problem with them.
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I have built on both blanks for inshore saltwater. The S842 is a nice blank, but it is not as fast as the P842 and does not have as much butt strength. The P842 has a softer tip and a stronger butt section. The P842 is a little heavier, however, a lot of the weight is in the butt section, so the swing weight is not really that different. I think the P842 is better suited to your application.
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Angler's Roost is a sponser, so there is a link to their website on the left. I'm not an expert on bamboo, but the blank looked fine to me. It is a Presidential series, 3 piece flamed Hardy Marvel with an extra tip. Almost everything on the build came from Angler's Roost. The ferrules were German Nickle Z ferrules and I needed two sets, which ran about $66 total. There are cheap brass ferru
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I bend the rod against a stationary object, like a wall. That way your eyes are far enough away from it to see the bend in the rod. When you use your hand, the rod is to close to your face and it is hard to hold the tip and the butt as the same time, so it is a pretty useless excercise.
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I have built on one bamboo blank. While I am certainly not an expert, I can tell you some observations I had in the transition from graphite to bamboo. First, the hexagonal shape is a bigger deal than you would think. I found it much harder to wrap and also to fit the hardware. I started to use silk, but decided to stick with nylon. I'm glad I did. It looks fine and is much easier to work
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Glenn McMurrian Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Try this link it's much better and faster then the > Forhand wrap > > > 10/ I couldn't tell from the picture, but isn't this structurally the same as a Forhan? It looks the same just tied backwards.
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I think American Tackle had a blank like that but I'm not sure. It may have been the Viper series. If you could post a picture of it, it might be helpful.
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It is really a matter of preference. I use only single foot guides. Single foot wire guides for rods up to 8wt and single foot ceramics for rods over 8wt. The primary reason is you have one less wrap, but I also prefer the look of single foots.
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You might try on the Classic Fly Rod forum. They have a knowledge about antique stuff.
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I don't know much about the PacBay guides, but for the AmTac guides I would go with the NIRLC titanium guides instead of the NIRLS. I think you will find the NIRLS guides too tall. The NIRLC guides are also a little cheaper.
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I only use Tru Oil on gribs that are a mixture of cork and burl. The Tru Oil really brings out the contrast in the materials, but it also excentuates the flaws in the cork. It has a slightly harder feel than untreated cork but is not slick. I never use it on solid cork grips howerver.
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Probably will help sales of blanks, at least in the short run. Most fishermen don't know anything about Northfork right now.
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In that particular size and weight, I like the Tiger Eye 7'6" 3/4 weight. Very attractive blank with a nice medium/fast action. This is the same blank mentioned by Mr. Ross. The Tiger Eye 7'6" comes in Brown (my favorite color), Matte Black and Green. They also have a 7' model of this blank, but I have never built on it.
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Batson also has switch rod/spey grips that may work for you application. You will need to order through a Batson dealer Mudhole carries a variety of grips up to 14 inches.
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Could they be Batson RX7 blanks if they are "manufactured in the USA"? Also, the colors don't match Batson blanks.
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The first question, already mentioned, is it a fly rod or a conventional rod. A fly rod would be relatively easy. I would question why he wants it reversed. It could change the balance on the rod slightly. I would also make sure he is willing to pay for the work involved in doing it or, since it is a friend, you are willing to invest the time.
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Batson has a short explanation of different ring materials they use in their online catalogue. Here is a link. I think there can be significant variation between manufacturers as to the hardness of the materials, hence, they are not real interested in publishing it.
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I read the thread you linked to. The only person I could find referenced in this context was Ralph O'Quinn. Did I miss something?
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I don't like idea of tipping. No one gives me tips for doing a good job, it is built into my fee. That being said, tipping is customary for guides and you might as well just add it to the fee when you are looking to hire one. I think 15% is customary and 20% if they do an exceptional job. So, if they quote you a rate of $350 to $450, you might as well assume they really mean $400 to $520.
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I think you are talking about Bonita Springs. I am in Tampa and have built several inshore flats spinning rods. I am currently building an inshore rod for larger reds and snook on a P904-2-MHX from Mudhole. It is a 7'6" popping rod rated 8 -15 # with a lure weight of 1/4 to 5/8 oz. It is a 2 piece rod, although they do have the blank in 1 piece. I haven't finished it yet, but I think i
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Pardon my ignorance, but what are you refering to when you say one power and two power. I build mostly fly rods (though I do build some saltwater popping rods), but I have never heard of these designations.
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The Matrix blank have a woven graphite butt section that shows through the rod finish. I personally like it, but it is different. The Matrix blanks come in green or black, but both have the woven graphite look in the butt section. Here is an example: and
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Three blanks that come to mind are the American Tackle Matrix, the Batson Rainshadow RX7 and the Mudhole MHX. The Matrix runs about $85 and is medium fast. You have to like the graphite design in the butt section though. The RX7 is a little faster, but not fast action. It is slightly more at about $88. The MHX is the fastest of the bunch and runs a little over $100. I like all three, althou
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All of the spinning rods I build are on 2 or 3 piece blanks and I have had no issues with them at all. I build mostly fly rods with most being 4 piece. I would like to see some blind tests with multi piece spinning rods vs single piece rods. I bet there would be some surprising results for those who swear by single piece rods.
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I agree with almost everything you say, particularly about 8wt+ rods (although I do think you are putting to much emphasis on modulus over design and materials). I do think there are some other issues brought up by Quinn. All things being equal, the higher end rods perform better, however, also important is how the rod is matched to the line and how the combination of rod and line matches up wi
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On higher end blanks, Sage, Winston, etc. I usually include all or part of the manufacturers decal unless the customer does not want in on. I find most people like to show off something that has a recognizable "name" attached to it. If it is a lower priced blank, or one from a blank manufacturer most people wouldn't recognize, I leave it off. I have a special symbol I put on all of
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Just recieved my rings the other day and they are pretty much as described. About 5% of the rings were CG3 with the rest of the rings about 50/50 CG1 to CG2. Overall a great price for what you get.
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