Bill, Excellent information. I have used the Batson LTC guides on two of my personal rods without any issues, however, I take very good care of my rods. As I stated in the post, I prefer the new XTC guides on saltwater rods. If I were building a saltwater rod for someone else, I think it would be a good idea to heed your advice. I would hate for someone to come back with green guides.
Forum: rodboard

I have used the Batson "LTCUDUG Light TiCh Plated 'UD' Guide w/PVD TiO Blue Zirconium Ring" as stipping guides on two of my saltwater rods, with good success. I would prefer the heavier XTCUD guides, put they don't come with blue rings.
Forum: rodboard

I have a simple three step process to end up with a two piece blank. 1. Take the 2 one piece blanks firmly in you right hand, grasp them slightly further up the blank with you left hand and gently set them on your work bench. 2. Dial up one of the suppliers listed on the left side of the screen. 3. Order a two piece blank. Quite honestly, why would you want to take two perfectly good on
Forum: rodboard

All of the Rainshadow blanks I've built on have been straight as an arrow, including an RX8+ and 2 RX7+'s. At the price of these blanks, I would send it back and ask for another one.
Forum: rodboard

Not liking color preserver, I have had the thought of painting the area under the wraps on dark blanks. As you know, most thread wraps tend to disappear on dark blanks. I tried a metalic silver paint under royal blue wraps on a practice blank and it turned out very nice. Has anyone ever tried this and how did it turn out?
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for the clarification. I new that they were both 57 MM modulus. The specs on the two blanks were a little different, but otherwise, they were very similar. Was I correct that Batson builds the blank for them? I plan on building on the FT908-4 blank.
Forum: rodboard

I believe the FT blank is a Rainshadow RX8. If so, it is a very nice blank. Fast action but not to stiff. I have a 6wt built on the RX8 and love it for light flats fishing. I am seriously looking at a kit Dan Craft has using the FT908-4 blank. It has a nice component package that was almost identical to what I was putting together ala cart. I think the kit is about $150, whereas, buying the
Forum: rodboard

If you are going with a switch rod, I would try to get a slightly longer blank. By time you run the 10 foot blank through the reel seat and into the rear handle, it's going to be too short. As mentioned above, there are some switch rod blanks out there now in the 11' to 12' range. That would be a better length.
Forum: rodboard

I don't know about the CCS numbers, but I have an RX8+ 8wt and it is the best casting rod I have. An unusual mix of fast action and a softer feel. It is sweet to cast but can throw a lot of line.
Forum: rodboard

I can't give you a technical answer although I understand only the RX7+ and RX8+ are built in the USA. I have a 6wt rod I built on an RX8 blank and an 8wt rod I built on an RX8+ blank. While this is not direct comparisons, I can give you my perceptions as to the difference in these two. The RX8 is a fast action rod with a nice feel. Not stiff but definately a firm feel. The RX8+ is also a
Forum: rodboard

I would recommend a fast action, medium light rod, 7 feet with a short butt (no more than 8"). My first choice would be a St. Croix 2S70MLF2 Second Choice would be a Rainshadow ISB843F (2 piece) or SB841-3 (3 piece). Rod should be rated for 6 to 12 lb line and lure weights of 1/8 to 1/2 oz.
Forum: rodboard

If you talk to kayak fishermen, the most important feature in a kayak rod is butt length. The rear handle should not be over 8 inches, however, it shouldn't be much under 7 inches so that it will fit in flush mount rod holders. As far a length, it should only be long enough to let the tip clear the bow under load. This becomes a function of kayak length since a 12 foot kayak would only need ab
Forum: rodboard