Ask him if he would buy a Picasso if Picasso's signature was not on it. I don't put my name on rods but I do put my "signature" which is a fish symbol with MK 1:17 written beside it. I consider what the builder puts on the rod is his signature as long as it is tastefully done.
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I just built a rod on a white blank with the same blue and red. Greg is right, the Prowrap colorfast numbers are red -325 and blue - 446. These are the closest you will find to the official Pantone colors of red -PMS 186 and blue - PMS 2767. White is white, but actually is not one of the official colors for Ole Miss. I would use the colorfast thread since it is easier to get the colors right
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I have built a test rod for satlwater flats with them. This is a little heavier P844-MHX. It works well on that rod. Generally I found that the rod casts better than the typical cone of flight layout, but about the same as a good Fuji New Concept layout. It does have a different feel and sound though.
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Barry Thomas Sr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I start away and wrap toward the edge for best > results That's funny, I start at the edge and wrap away. Actually I start the thread about 1/16 th inch from the edge, get it locked down and them push it to the very edge. After that I finish the wrap working away from the edge. Anyway, normally I wrap
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A 6' to 7' 3wt would be considered a specialty rod, particularly for small streams. I agree with Terry, and 8' to 9' in a 4wt or 5wt would be a more all around rod. I would opt for a medium-fast action rod like a Batson RX-7. They are usually more sensitive and easier to feel loading. Check around for some discounted Batson blanks, they are discontinuing a lot of models and you may be able to
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I haven't built or fished either one of these rods, however, I do like the MHX line. I do fly fish from a kayak most of the time, so I would suggest the 8' model. One of the issues fly casting from a sitting position in a kayak is keeping the line off the water. That is easier with an 8' rod. I also roll cast a lot in tight places, and it is easier with a longer rod.
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I use MinWax Golden Oak wood putty to fill pits. It matches the cork well and is easy to use. I also sometimes use cork dust mixed with Elmers wood glue. Just fill the areas and smooth it off. After it dries give it a light sanding.
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I use that symbol on all of my rods. It is fairly easy to draw it on the blank with a metalic ink pen. Just practice a little.
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Pantone 286 for the Blue. Unless you can find an exact match, you will probably have to pull up a Pantone Chart and find the closest match to what is available. (Google "pantone chart"). I usually use NCP when I am trying to match school colors.
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I assume this is not the Angler's Workship in the Sponsors column?
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I've never tried them side by side, but you might look at the Batson RX8.
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I build a lot of 8wt rods for saltwater flats. My usual lineup for the guides is 16, 12, 5, 3, 3----->. The 5 and 3 guides I use are single foot wire, or you can use double foot snake guides if you want. Make sure you use SS316 stainless steel guides if you are getting any where near salt. I use an A8 size reel seat, either all metal or with a woven graphite insert, depending on the look
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I really like the CCS, but it becomes pretty useless in making decisions if you don't have a large database to make meaningful comparisons.
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If you are using a camo grip and a camo patterned wrap, I would use a matching solid green or brown blank rather than camo the whole thing. Using a camo blank on top of everything else would be way to busy in my opinion. The solid color blank would make the pattern in the other components stand out. I think St. Croix has some green blanks that would work, but I don't know what the parameters o
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My suggestion would be an MHX - MB844-2. It is a 7', 2 piece with a line rating of 12# to 20# and runs about $85. You would be hard pressed to find a 2 piece rod with a higher line rating for less than $100.
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I use polished chrome Alconites on some of my inshore salt rods. They hold up well as long as you keep them rinsed after use. Like Jim, I use Pledge on my rods periodically.
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I try to size the grip according to the hand size of the person I'm building for. Bigger hands, bigger grips. I've been toying with the idea of finding best relationship between hand size (measured from the tip of the thumb to the tip of the little finger when the hand is outstreached) and the diameter of the grip and developing a factor to use to determine grip size. As it is, I take my norma
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Just recieved a very quick response back from Mudhole. Per response, they are SS316 frames and should be suitable for salt. Thanks for the quick response Gary.
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Col Chaseling Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Some titanium frames would be good but > from what I hear that's not going to happen. Would > be good for corrosion resistance in saltwatrer > rather than a weight saving. > I just recieved my Microwave guide set and they don't look like they would be very salt tollerant. I was going to use th
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Harbor Freight has a 1500 watt heat gun on sale for $12.99, if you have one close by.
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Is there any formula or guideline for placing a set size butt guide a certain distance from the reel relative to the reel spool diameter, or is it just set it a little further away for a big reel and a little closer for a small reel. Seems like, given the physical dynamics of the line coming off the reel, there should be a way to calculate the optimium distance to the butt guide.
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Darrin, Thanks for your explanation (and Tom also). The reason I got to thinking about it is an e-mail from Mudhole announcing your microwave guide sets. I'm seriously thinking about using it on the build I am working on. Right now I'm torn between the microwave set and the Titan guides.
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I got in an debate on the internet with Fox Statler several years ago about this. He advocates a lot more running guides on fly rods than traditional thinking. His argument was that line sag between guides caused more drag than the line running straight through the larger number of guides. I thought he was crazy at first, but after researching it, it did make sense. I tried it on one rod I bu
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I'm trying to get my brain around the microwave guide system before I try it on my next build. It looks to me that the microwave butt guide has so little space between the large ring and the smaller ring that the large ring really has no function. Am I missing something?. If it has no function, why not just use a smaller butt guide? In any event, does it actually work or is it all hype?
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I use sandpaper, usually starting with 60 to get the basic for then down to 220 to finish shaping then 400 to finish. I have several curved forms to shape the grip. Also have an electronic caliper to check against the pattern I'm using. This keeps me from oversanding the grip. I use a drill set up and run it between medium and high speed. I don't like solid burl grips, they feel to hard an
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I buy from Mudhole all the time even though I am in Florida and have to pay sales tax and shipping. Selection is great, prices are reasonable but they will go WAY out of their way to be helpful. Todd Vivian, Bob McKamey and Sean Cheaney will all bend of backwards to help you. If you haven't been there, go to the forum on their web site.
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I have the old spreadsheet for the CCS numbers, but it hasn't been updated since the site shut down. A lot of the newer blanks are not on it. GLoomis doesn't sell blanks so, unless someone just happened to check a factory rod, I doubt the CCS for the NRX would be available.
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You might try a Batson RX6 - F764-5. It is a 7'6", 5 piece, 4wt. That should come in around 19 inches depending on ferrule overlap. Check with Batson to see how long the sections are. Opps, sorry, this is a fly blank. Rereading you post I see you want a spinning blank.
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I've tried their guide spacing program a couple of times and came up with some really bazaar layouts. It's a lot easier to just go with 27X.
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Here's your best solution. Let the factory do it. S842-2-MHX
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