"Is there any other blank manufactures using the CCS in a serious way?" I see that Dan Craft has a few models that they have included CCS data for on their website. I think it's the best tool, make that the only tool for us to use when comparing apples to apples, rather than sifting through the "apple sauce" recipes that the blank/rod makers have historically spooned us in
Forum: rodboard

Thanks Jim, I might have to try one of those out. How did you find the finish (if there is any) to hold up? Regardless, the price is right (especially for my cheap friends).
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You can get a grizzly hobbly lathe for use with an electric drill for about $50. This setup comes with a live center for SS mandrels that the sponsors here sell. If you're going to build enough grips, it's worth it. Plus, you can abandon the standard materials you've been accustomed to settling for and use materials that will outlast standard cork/eva and look and feel a helluva lot better.
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Hey guys, he said "fly rod blanks". I know that a blank doesn't know what it's intended use is, but even fast action fly rod blanks are slower than many moderate action spin/cast blanks. Also, there are more multi-piece offerings as well as the longer lengths that are typically associated with blanks designated as fly rod blanks. Rainshadow offers some fairly inexpensive fly blanks,
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REC makes aluminum and nickel silver checks as small as 14/64 (.21875) in. I prefer to use winding checks like these, but you could also build an "epoxy ramp" and cover with thread as you've described. Do a search here and you'll find information on it.
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I have a set of them and after doing a slight foot tapering (dressing the foot) it's obvious that they are indeed a coating and NOT "impregnated" as Herb put it. The standard bright metal color is now exposed where I've sanded the guide foot. I don't see how you could possibly "impregnate" a finish anyhow?! I would plan on the finish wearing off down the road, but they are
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Underwrap: Fishhawk "forest" variegated nylon, Pac Bay "cinnamon" NCP, Gudebrod "black" nylon - all size A. Overwrap: Gudebrod "chestnut" nylon with no CP.
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Last week I put some Lumiseal in a tall shotglass and set it on my work bench, then went and did something else (while waiting for the lumiseal to warm to room temp) and completely forgot about it for a period of about 2 1/2 hours. When I returned it had only slightly thickened, so I applied it - which resulted it a favorable build-up. It was the second of what was going to be 3 applications,
Forum: rodboard

I thought 'blackfish" were killer whales. At least that's what my salmon-fishing former father in law called them up in Washington. If that's the case, you'll need a whaling vessel for a reel.
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Motor RPM X Motor Pulley Dia. = Lathe RPM X Lathe Pulley Dia. ; then isolate your unknown, which is likely: Lathe RPM= (Motor RPM X Motor Pulley Dia.) / Lathe Pulley Dia.
Forum: rodboard

You can actually build your entire grip out of burl cork. I do it all the time. It's slightly harder than conventional cork. I no longer like the super spongy feel of regular cork, and neither do those people that I build for.
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I've always had problems filling what we call "tunnels". The problem I've found is that they aren't tunnels at all, but rather "caves". A tunnel has an opening on both ends. I've recently learned to wrap in such a fashion as to create an actual tunnel (too detailed to get into here). This helps to displace the air bubbles much easier and allows for easy filling from either
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The Best In my opinion are those from REC. They cost a bit more than the Pac Bay/Batson/American Tackle ones but they're well worth it - whether aluminum or nickel silver (that you can blue). I find they're nicer than the Struble at the same price range and in some cases, cheaper than equivalent Struble models. They're also the lightest weight classic style (no graphite) reel seats. When the
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Not a blank any of the sponsors sell, but I've developed a liking for Elkhorn Blanks as they are quite similar to the Sage LL series in terms of action (med. to med./fast) and much easier on the wallet. I haven't personally built anything as short as 7', but their 8' and 8.5' - 2 and 3 wt. line series are an absolute joy to fish.
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I've rebuilt many many flyrods that had snake guides - exchanging them for single foot ceramics and Pac Bay Minimas and every report back states that the rebuilt rods cast (or more accurately shoot line) further than with the original snake guide set up. The ONLY advantage to snake guides is that they don't ice up as quickly in very cold conditions. Wire is such an "outdated" technolo
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I, myself, have over 25 years of rodbuilding under my belt, and if nothings made me quit by now, nothing ever will - least of all the criticism from the self-appointed "board police"!
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And it's an insult to guys like Doug and myself to be made to feel inferior because we are not doing things at the pace of "mass production". Have you ever made a mistake that you realize you would not have made - had you slowed down and taken your time? I've worked with guys who performed their work sooooooo fast that they could do it twice! Problem is, they occasionally had to go b
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ray wrote, "I don't see anything that would take a lot of time to do and I could dupilicate any one of your posted rods in one day easily." -Actually, you couldn't duplicate it in one day because the guides are finished in both permagloss AND epoxy - a technique recommended by other builders on this board who have rods FAR superior to the work that you have on display! In
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Jeremy, I never said you made those claims that resulted in Doug's inferiority complex. You just came to the defense of those who did.
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Thomas, as long as you're impressed with your work and find others willing to pay for it - I guess, that's all that matters. Jeremy, making builders like Doug feel that he's inferior for not performing at the same rate of speed that others perform is out of line. He's not sitting in an assembly line. The end result, regardless of how long it takes is what maters most. Just remember thou
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Thomas, It's the mass produced works by guys like you that got me into rodbuilding in the first place - so that I can take my time and do it right!
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Jeremy, 20 rods per week @ $200.00 per rod is hardly custom. It's merely assembly work. It's my understanding that CUSTOM is what this board is about!! Doug, who started this post, stated that he was informed that a rod could be stripped, cleaned, rewrapped, and refinished in less than an hour. He stated that he felt inferior. He was made to feel inferior because guys like you insist that
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Wish I knew that 4 years ago. Haven't had much problem with DNA on the SCIV though. Then again, only had a limited time with DNA on that blank when I had to remove and rewrap a guide.
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That Trondak ferrule lube completely stripped the finish off of the male sections of my St. Croix SCIV flyrod blank. Use cautiously.
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I wasn't trying to be accusational. I just know that there are some who think that "if it works so well for this, then it must work well for..." Didn't mean to hijack the thread either, just wanted to save anybody who might be thinking of using it for other apps the trouble. Also, some of the brushes that you can get in your local hobby shop use some kind of glue to bind the bristles
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Be careful however, while it is absolutely one of the best things to use for cleaning brushes, It can also remove finish from blanks when you decide to use is as a "rod cleaner". I'd recommend using it as only a bruch cleaner, as alcohol still seems to be "more controllable" as a medium for stripping/cleaning .
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Don't believe every thing you read. The faster you > try to be the more mistakes you make and or damage > to a blank- or your fingers > > Do it once, do it right EXACTLY! "They can't afford to build 2 rods per week if they want to put food on the table." - If they take th
Forum: rodboard

At that high rate of speed, you're essentially building the same mass-produced JUNK that I would never fish. Any rod that can be built in one day would never make it past my personal quality control guidelines. Two rods per week - including grip/reel set construction would be pretty borderline for me! There's so much "downtime" for drying/curing of glues/finishes that simply cannot b
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I've caught some decent sized bass (4-5lbs) on flyrods that are ideal for handling a WF-4-F line @ 20-40 ft. Hard to say it was the "optimum" tool to use for Bass, but it did OK in a pinch. Bluegill, Sunfish, and Crappie and the flies used to entice them should be easily handled with a 4 wt. line and med-fast action rod. Since it's your first flyrod build, you may want to stick to a
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It's my understanding that most (if not all by now) thread finish epoxies have UV inhibitors in them. This should prevent the pics from fading. I would add that if you use Krylon (which I would not) be sure it is 100% dry as it contains silicone which WILL cause fish eyes in the epoxy (I learned from experience). I would likely coat both the edges and surface of the pic with just color preserv
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