TiCH, like chrome, is merely a coating and after a (lengthy) period of time will wear at various points. The hardness is not really an issue when dealing with flylines, so virtually any material will suffice. I just know that he had mentioned "stealth" for color and suggested TiCH Pac Bay minimas since they are far better than a piece of bent wire for most applications (the only excep
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TiCH IS harder than chrome.
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Pac Bay Minimas size 4 are lighter than Fuji Alconites in a size 4, and will clear flyline/leader connections up to about a 7 wt. They come in TiCH, which is almost Black. This would definately be within a "stealth" color scheme.
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Or, you could just go without CP directly to Permagloss or Lumiseal, and if you would like - after the PG/LS has set up (after several days) apply epoxy.
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Rog Willis, "Liquid based lighters" ARE butane. I'd never advise anyone to spend two days cleaning dust out of a room when they can just use a lighter to QUICKLY burst bubbles and "tread lightly". Besides, it's kind of hard washing carpeted floors.
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Denver's such a centrally located municipality, I'm surprised that we don't have a SUBSTANTIAL custom rod building supplier. Then again, the higher tax rates and more importantly, property values (all along the Front Range) would likely be prohibitive for a business of this nature to flourish here!
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"If you don't have one - pick up a good quality industrial heat gun." And enjoy spending the next couple of days redoing the wrap and re-applying your inscription/decal due to all of the "dust bunnies" - dust particles that found their way onto your epoxy that were sent airborn during use of a heat gun. Heat should only be used to "pop" bubbles in your finish.
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So much is made of being able to cast long distances. I find more often, that if I'm looking for a more USEFUL 5 wt. rod, it has to be able to perform well when protecting 6X tippets. I haven't found a rod with an ERN greater than 6.0 worth a darn for this application. It helps to have this because I don't really want to walk 2 miles back to the truck to get a 3 wt. or 4 wt. rod when the size
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Phil, I guess i'll sum it up in more simple terms for you. I don't find it necessary to gain status acceptance within a organization just so I can take home a "plastic trophy". I cast and fish every bit as well as these "certified members" without having to be affiliated with an organization. Besides, while they're in their meetings "talking" fishing and cast
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Eric, I'd bet good money that it's actually coming apart between the paper thin layers that have never seen any glue. In fact, where your glue bonds two different rings is where you have the greatest structural integrity of the entire grip. You must "push" it off of the mandrel, rather that "pull" it off. I've separated a couple of grips and reel seat insert made of birc
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Actually Tom, There are FAR better cork sealants out there than Trondak's. Namely the one's that duck carvers use. They are considerably less expensive as well. I've often had to sand and recoat grips that had the Trondak Cork Seal after only marginal use on the water. Since I've switched to the stuff duck carvers use, I've ended up with a much more durable sealant. I understand your
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I think the whole problem begins and ends with "FFF Certified casters, teachers, Guides". I've fished with these so-called "certified" FFF people and they could cast long distance (straight) with some accuracy, but they could NOT grasp the concept of line mending or implementing a mend within their casting stroke. Makes you wonder what the criteria are for being "certif
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"..., but that small piece of blank extending beyond the guide just does not sit right with me. Lou, some people use a dremmel or file and CAREFULLY remove the offensive extension of rod tip when winding on a guide as the tip top. I've learned to wind mine on so there's virtually no blank tip extension to begin with. I generally use a size 5 Minina tip when using size 4 running guides a
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I'd like to hear the specifics too. Also, it may invite the manufacturer to become aware of the potential problem(s) (if there acutally are any) so that they may make any necessary corrections in order to please the customers. For example, in the past I've read about the extensive amount of guide foot preparation necessary to use a certain line of guides. The manufacturer chimed in, addressed
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I second Bob's recommendation on Pam cooking spray. I think Loon Outdoor's makes a product as well that's popular with flyfishermen for preventing Ice build up. For me, If ice is forming, I'm fishing too early/late in the year.
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Yes, they're actually available in polished and black as well.
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If the Musky Rod is spiral wrapped, why not just wind on a guide @ the tip instead of a tip top? I bet one of those foul proof fuji's would work well for this application - especially when implimenting a locking wrap.
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Either a double Centauri or a double nail knot easily pass through a 4mm micro. I use these all the time.
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Frank, The smallest ring size in the "P" minmas is a 6, which is a bit bigger than a model "F" size 4. The MV has the ring hanging out there in space, suspended by thin wire-like pieces and looks pretty ugly. I especially don't like the looks of the Minima tops on flyrods. Tip tops are guides that have metal sleeves that surround the blanks tip and weight more than
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I've personally never seen a good quality thread finish job that was done using cheap throw away brushes.
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Kerry, Soak bristles in the U40 Cap, then rinse with water...................I can't see myself investing in the effort you put forth. More power to ya' brother. Walt, You're right. This stuff is better on my truck than Bug and Tar Remover, when needed.
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Sanford, Was this an express (namely - overnight) shipping charge? If so, then I can't really empathize. Look at the charges the airlines are dishing out to customers for bags. Unfortunately, it's what they've had to do to stay in business. Look at the prices for fuel. I think the profit margins for the goods we use in rod building are so small that our suppliers can't really absorb AN
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U40 Brush Cleaner also has a fairly low odor. It's hard to believe that something with such a low odor has so much strength in removing partially set up epoxy. I've tried quite a few products as well and this U40 gets my endorsement. Great investment as it keeps my brushes going much longer than anything else I've used.
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I second Tom's recommendation for wrapping a guide on as a tip top for those Minimas. I've recently built a rod (fly rod) for a friend using the Minimas and wound a guide on at the tip. I had to expain to a few people examining the rod that it is NOT broken. At a later date, I ran into one of the "critics" who told me that they later looked at their existing rods for comparison and
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I've been wanting to try that one myself (with 3 threads). Good tutorial and pics by Jim Rippe on rodbuildingtutorials.com. I'd have never though that 3 threads would look so good if it weren't for that final pic.
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20 ft.? Wow, that's one long and heavy pole! I'd hate to tangle with the guy who could one-arm that all day!
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American Tackle Nanolite's have a ceramic that is supposedly "harder" than Fuji's Alconite material, plus they are available in micros if that's what you're after. They are also available with titanium frames in the larger sizes for a fairly reasonable price.
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Peter, Pac Bay Tradition II is another option. They make a 5' Moderate Fast UL blank that can be cut down at the butt section to make a shorter length rod. This would make a great UL for those small, yet open Upper Michigan streams like Hopkins Creek, Clacking Creek, Boyne River, etc. I was just wondering though, if you're throwing as large as size 2 Mepps on such a short rod, then I'm i
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Tom, I have read you - yourself state that we should use the manufacturer's recommended lure and line ratings to those individuals on this board who were inquiring about what weight(s) of lures and line ratings they sould use for their rods when they've tested spinning blanks using the CCS system and found their data to not quite coincide with these "prescribed" ratings. This seems
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Unless I'm missing something entirely, I don't see how the CCS applies to spinning/casting rods/blanks. For a flyrod application, It shows how a rod/blank will likely "load" with a specific amount of weight beyond the tip of the rod - during flycasting, and which part(s) of the blank will bend while casting this amount of applied load. For spinning/casting rods, when casting a lure, t
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