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Actually when I do a quasi-O'Quinn method, I typically put smaller guides in the spiral. One that comes to mind is a 7' Ugly Stick for 15-30# saltwater live bait & casting. My butt guide was a size 20 and first 180 (actually about 170) was a size 16. I had two 'spiral' guides inbetween that were size 10s. They were placed so as not to alter the line path. I used the smaller size so I wou
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You have several options. As Mr. Rick says, A for the underwrap and D for the guide wraps. If I wrap a rod that isn't going to be used over 50# or so I normally don't double overwrap. If the intended purpose is 60# or more I do my first guide wrap in A and then my second guide wrap in D. Personally I have no problem wrapping an A guide wrap over my A underwrap. You need to be sure the un
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Chances are they are wrapped with a separate cloth and not actually built 'into' the blank. I don't see how you could do that without destroying the integrity of the blank alltogether. Also, how would you fix a broken guide? Try the cloth Lou suggested. This would be a great experiment. Jay
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Wow, all that to space guides? If I ever had to use the word "tangent" when I built a rod, I'd never build another one. No disrespect mind you. I really am glad there are people that are smart enough to figure stuff like that out. Jay
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I don't know for sure, but for warantee purposses, I might would stick to the manufacturer's recomended minimum. I have a Gatti spin blank and I will be doing as they say. Jay
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My Lowes store has TB III. Jay
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I think you can also pigment Permagloss also...is that right? Jay
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Or add pigment to some epoxy and 'paint' over the logo...add your decal over top of that & clear. Jay
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5 minute epoxy can normally be broken with heat. Jay
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A big no...unless you just want it to hold the threads in place. Mettalic threads do not change color or go transparent. Applying finish to these threads will give the same result as dropping water on a sheet of aluminum foil...zero reaction. CP would be acceptable as a glue of sorts to hold the threads tight until you finish. Although I use Permagloss for that job instead of CP. Jay
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With the proper technique & work area you can obtain VERY acceptable results. Weight is not a concern with most of the blanks I work with. Jay
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Oops...did he specify what type of rod he was building? I took for granted it was a casting rod...maybe I'll read it again & more carefully this time. I DON'T WANT TO GET SHOT! I have heard of people that turn spinning rods upside down to run the static test so I guess that theory is widely debated also. Jay
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Minwax is the spar I use (spray & liquid). If I decide to use the spray again, I'll heat the can a little...thanks Bill. Jay
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I've done one in DupliColor & Permagloss. Like a charm. It's in the dryer right now. I don't think I'd try painting a blank without some sort of clear top coat. Spar or Permagloss. I only spray out of the can so I've not tried an automotive clear. I have tried the Spar spray, but didn't like it as much as the liquid. The spray left a rougher texture. Jay
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Absolutly no colors show through from under black nylon. I ALWAYS inlay my decorative threads under my black and NEVER use CP. Black does not turn translucent at all...so no worries. I have one turning as we speak........black with silver trim on each end (3 threads each). Jay
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I've never held a spool of size E thread and built trolling rods designed for 65# of drag. For private rods that are taken well care of I will use a single layer of size A on rods up to 50#. There is no need, except for personal preference, to use thread larger than A on any fly rod. Even a 19wt fly rod should be ok with size A thread I would think. My 'dink' fly rod is an 8wt...lol Jay
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From my experience, Permagloss eats Krylon but spar works fine. I also recently tried DupliColor (automotive) and Permagloss worked fine. As thin as the layers of paint are that we apply to rod blanks I can't see any way around a clear topcoat. Edit: Opps I'm sorry. When I said Krylon I was actually thinking about Rust-Oleum. Brain malfunction. I've never sprayed a blank with Krylon. Af
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The teflon tape & heat shrink tube methods 'sound' great, but only in certain applications. I don't think either would hold up when you put 45# of drag on a running bluefin or even 17# of drag on a screaming wahoo. For a trout or bass it would probably work great. For saltwater I'll stick to a guided bumper (I will be trying this) or the tried & true 60/120 spiral. Jay
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John, you can't use regular (Aftco) roller guides for a spiral wrap. I would try the boiling method first. Then move on to the dry heat method...pulling straight away and NOT twisting! Then...if all that fails, cut the blank right where the tip stops, resize, and order a new top. Jay
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I also pull from the tip and just let the line from the reel dangle with a little weight attached. Personally I pay no attention to actual measured angles. I look at the line with my eyes and make my own judgments without pulling out the protractor. When loaded, if the line touches the blank I adjust and/or add a guide. If there is a major flat spot between guides I adjust and/or add a guide.
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The black will require no CP and metallics are made from foil which does not change color with or w/o CP. Jay
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I know what you mean Mike. I've got a 7455XXH myself. Jay
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One thing that pops to mind is the AmTak butt. I understand that it slid down tight & stopped right where you wanted it (that is amazing in itself), but I can't imagine that it was tight on both ends. I have a feeling that it was tight on the butt end where the blank diameter is larger, but might have had a slight amount of play on the upper end by the reel seat. My bushings are always lar
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I think the term 'transition guide' is just a habbit that most of us have formed. In the setup mentioned here there are no real transition guides. The line is what transitions from the top to the bottom. There happens to be a guide placed during that transition and most of us refer to that guide as a 'transition guide'. This is much like the way I have done spirals in the past. Run the line
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John, that is why they put the guide at 90 degrees at a spot where it doesn't interfear with the natural line path. Jay
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Phil, if there is a predominant spine, you'll easily know. Even on these heavy blanks the spine isn't hard to find. I just did a 655H that had VERY little spine. I also have a Baja Boomer that has a well defined spine. I did a Seeker CTSF50XXH recently that had absolutly no spine at all. My point is that if your blank doesn't have much, if any, spine then just build on the curve as suggested
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Richard, if you don't have any trim or inlays on your guide wraps, I would suggest adding pigment to your epoxy to make it pink. Of course if you have trim in or around the wrap this won't work as it would cover it up. The colored epoxy should fix all your guide wrap worries otherwise. The butt wrap? You may consider doing another test with your thread using multiple coats of CP then epoxy to
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If you are unable to pull the trim under the guide wrap, your guide wrap is too tight. Was that the question? That is the method I use for almost all my trim. Jay
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I saw a picture of a spinning rod built on a GF700H blank that used trimar throughout. Guide wraps & all. It looked pretty cool to me. Jay
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