I have dealt with AW for years and never had a quality issue!
Forum: rodboard

You should not have trouble finding reel seats to fit that blank, the butt diameter is not that large. It then is also no need for a stent, which would increase the length of the butt section. I have built Icocglass rods up to a 10wt without the need for a stent.
Forum: rodboard

Line sag is not an issue on fly rods as the guides are below the rod, and during casting there is continuous tension on the line Every rod I build with single feet have the same number of guides as would double foot.
Forum: rodboard

I build only fly rods and use single foot guides exclusively. The only exception is customer insistence. While single foot wire guides are most prevelant, there are other single foots I use, Minima's for example. As for you concern about strength, they con be bent easier than double foot, and if a locking loop is not used, can pull out if mishandled.
Forum: rodboard

As I only build fly rods, most of my builds are 4piece. I assemble the pieces, checking the ferrule fits, then bend the blank 90 degrees and while bent turn it so that it is stressed on all axis.
Forum: rodboard

Fish the 8wt for Bones Bahamas and Christmas Island, does the job wonderfully!
Forum: rodboard

Very nice reel seats, some of the best!
Forum: rodboard

Cork Seal will also bring the colors back as well as sealing the cork.
Forum: rodboard

If you are having on-going problems with epoxy "jelling" it may be the temperature where you store it. If that is the case, warming it will make it fluid again.
Forum: rodboard

I build only fly rods and have built 100's. I have not used a double foot snake guide in 15 years! For rods up to 6-7 weight I use single foot wire guides (available in two weights) and above those I use single foot minima's.. If you chose to use single foot guides, be sure to employ the locking loop.
Forum: rodboard

There is no need for the application of acetone! Thin epoxy will accomplish the same thing without the risk associated with acetone.
Forum: rodboard

I use Crystal Coat a lot, so I built a heated curing cabinet that I can raise the temperature to 100 degrees. With it curing takes approx 6 hours
Forum: rodboard

I have built out a couple of these same blanks, and I find the NFC guide spacing to be "right on." I also find I do not need a size 16 stripper and instead went with 12 & 10, also used size 3 single foot runners for the balance of the rod. Both clients love the rods!
Forum: rodboard

It really sounds like some kind of contamination.. Either on the blank or maybe atmospheric. Anything applied to the blank beforehand? Anybody spraying anything in the room?
Forum: rodboard

It is not clear if he is talking about wrap epoxy or structural epoxy. Heating it to eliminate the gelling is OK with either one. Many of us warm our wrap epoxy before applying. Additionally, most wrap epoxies have shelf life much longer than one year. It is likely your gelling problem is due to temperature. As stated above use a product "made for the job!"
Forum: rodboard

The bands are just too tight! They do not need to be so tight you scratch the blank moving them. Also if you need to move them more than just a little, be sure they are loose enough that you are not so tight agains the blank. This is obviously more of an issue with painted blanks.
Forum: rodboard

I place of using line, I use narrow zip ties cinched down tight. Trim afer epoxy is cured
Forum: rodboard

Easier and better looking to coat the entire circumference
Forum: rodboard

You do not need thread under the epoxy coat. I always apply a coat of epoxy under the decal, even on smooth painted blanks, it's a better adhesion surface.
Forum: rodboard

It will work as long as the gap to fill is not too large. It is not an adhesive though.
Forum: rodboard

90 degrees should not break most rods, especially fly rods! It is when one goes beyond 90 that breakage can occur. The problem with "high sticking" is that the rod is held vertical which puts the bend only in the tip area. I bend every blank 90 degrees before i build. If it is going to break at 90, I want it do it, before I build!
Forum: rodboard

I had the same issue with one of my email accounts, used the second without problems. Seems some email addresses are not accepted.
Forum: rodboard

CTS blanks are in my opinion one of the very best. I just returned from a visit to their plant in NZ and i was impressed with their production processes and quality control.. I only build fly rods, so no opinion re bass blanks.
Forum: rodboard

You got it!
Forum: rodboard

I build what my customer wants! I only build fly rods and have a reputation for building very good rods for the specific type of fishing the client is to pursue.. To do this, I conduct a pretty thorough interview for new customers, Repeat customers, usually know what they want. I build only "to order" no inventory. Often my new customers are someone I encounter fishing, and they obse
Forum: rodboard

That last question is impossible to answer, without knowing; where was it manufactured, how many were produced, what are the component costs, how long has it been in inventory, plus shipping costs. Any attempt is only a guess!
Forum: rodboard

Building upon the spine was started when fiberglass rods were fairly new, and they had more prominent spines. Also most were one or two piece blanks. Even then it was questionable whether it had any effect upon casting or landing. In short, it's old school!
Forum: rodboard

why fool around with something that is a "maybe!"
Forum: rodboard

Very sad, always willing to answer any question I had. A really good guy!
Forum: rodboard

This blank is a tip over ferrule, like Carbon fiber blanks, no metal. They have what appears to be a varnish or urethane coating. This was a limited edition beta, 25 of each configuration, in 2016, not sure there are any left. I don't believe they ever had an intention to mass produce these blanks.
Forum: rodboard