If it is an all metal reel seat, I would use boiling ware, Boil for at least 15 minutes and may take a couple of tries. Has always worked for me!
Forum: rodboard

I fish build and fish Eterenty 2's and prefer Rio gold or grand depending upon casting distance needed. The Grand for longer casts.
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the simple solution is to have the tip as close to a support as possible! I n my case with my custom made hand wrapper, I can put the support as close to the tip as I want.
Forum: rodboard

Amen Lynn When the first subject of a spine came out, it was when the early fiberglass rod were introduced. Those rods had a very pronounced spine. Today with very thin carbon fiber scim and improved fiberglass the spine has no influence on either casting or fighting fish! Much ado about nothing!
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Chris, if you build for customers you might have a different reaction
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as it is organic, it may rot or otherwise deteriorate.
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iI use Minwax Helmsman urethane gloss. I plug both ends and dip them then hang to dry.
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The way Gerald mentioned is the way I do it! It takes some practice but works well.
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Carol and Mic do it all and are very rarely near a phone. With email they can respond anytime off hours.
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Single foot fly guides work very well! I only build fly rods and in the last 100 I have built only 4 had double foot. The wt range was 2 to 12.
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I have found email to be the best for contacting them, they always respond quickly.
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If I read this correctly, you are cutting out the inlet before you turn the grip. If so, you are shaping on the inlet section that has no mandrel support, thus it flexes as you shape it. I cut out the inlet after shaping using a Forstner bit slightly smaller and finish with a Dremel small sanding drum. If you need to make the recess before turning, how about making a smal wood or cork plug for
Forum: rodboard

If your connecting loops are hanging up, your using too small guides.
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In the photo section. Listed in the header.
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Why an ultra lite blank and not a fly rod blank?
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Remember you need to be able to grab and hold the line with your off hand. The guide needs to be far enough away so that you can grab/hold it below the guide and not so far that you get a lot of line sag.. Decide where you will be gripping the rod, and place the first guide 32" above that.
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I believe $25.00 plus cost of guide is reasonable especially as it is not a simple one color wrap...
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I would not do it for that little! However it can depend upon who you are doing for, a friend, acquaintance or other. For the grip, mild soap and soft cloth.
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Where's the missing 2 1/2 inches? In his original post he says he is going from 9ft to 9ft 6inches. 3 1/2 inch butt does not add 6 inches the rod.. If the grip and reel seat are moved towards the butt, leverage is added for the fish.
Forum: rodboard

The longer you make a rod, the more leverage you give to the fish! You are the fulcrum, they are at the end of the lever1 There is a reason Tuna rods are short.
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At 14 hours, it was "set" but not cured! Curing can take as long as 48+ hours.
Forum: rodboard

I am an adherent to the two line guide placement process, but I often wonder, what is the actual effect of guides misplaced! Have we had rods break, or casts less effective, or fish playing more difficult? Never heard of a break because the guide was in the wrong place.
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I have an order form and specification form that I have developed. Your email is hidden otherwise I can send you copies.
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The one I have is 13/16"
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NFC makes a very fine 12wt. Just finished one for a customer who loves it.
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I'm surprised that 375 didn't destroy the carbon fiber seat! I have removed countless reel seats with the boiling water method, however they have all been metal. The metal transfers the heat better to the adhesive.
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Practice is really important if you are looking for a certain effect!
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Why use a stent when it is not needed?
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Here is what I used on my last build, from the tip. 4-1/2 10-3/4 16 22 29-1/2 37-1/2 48 58-1/2 71 83-3/4 97 113-3/4
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The F904 is my recommendation. I have built a number of them for customers and fish one myself.
Forum: rodboard