CONGRATULATIONS TOM! RodMaker and this site are an extremely valuable asset to all us builders and fishermen. I have learned more in a few years from both than all my previous time spent building rods. Keep up the fine work!
Forum: rodboard

It works well on cork rings and preformed grips, do not see any reason it won't on the cork tape.
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One rule of thumb for the stripper is: it should be just beyond the reach of your stripping hand, so that you are able to strip the line behind the guide. This can mean different positions depending upon ones arm length. As for the question of using strippers on the butt and S/F on the tip, its done all the time! What ever system you use for initial placing of the guides, always check them
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It seems to me that the ferruling of the butt section will be the biggest challenge due to blanks having a taper. If you can improvise a "spigot" ferrule system it may work. I happen to have one of the W & M Trailmasters, so I broke it out (been hidden in the garage for years) to remind myself how it was constructed. It by the way is a much heavier rod then 2-3wt. It is rated as
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White Birch is the most popular in use. And it seems that the colder the climate the thicker the bark. I have used bark form, Wisconsin, Maine, Canada and Siberia, and the Siberian is by far the thickest. The advantage is purely in appearance as it is heavier than cork and carbon composite and generally lighter than most woods. Birchbark combines very well with other materials in making exo
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I am alittle confused by your question. You talk about overhead casting then mention fly lines. Are you talking about using fly lines to cast something other than a fly?
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I don't know of a manufacturer, but often see them on @#$%&.
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Why the "thinning?" Flecxcoat can be applies as a thin coat without additives. When you add things, you can often expect unusual results. It takes time to learn what works and what does'nt.
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Rockler Woodworking & Hardware is also an excellent source for Sand Papers and Micro mesh. Grits available are 60 to 12,000.
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Are you serious? 326 cents on a fly rod?
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IMO you cannot go wrong with Batson's blanks! They have multiple qualities at various price points. Many of the sponsors at left carry their product line. I personally fish them and build them for clients.
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Johnny does not have a web site
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I don't mean to jump upon someones thread, But I too wonder what are the advantages of Lite vs High build? Building only fly rods, with many being quite light, I often am able to use one coat of high build.
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Thanks again to all who have responded, I'm going to go with the extended grip rather than a separate fore grip. As I build all my own grips, I can do some experimenting before the final.
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Thanks to all for their responses. I have fished Kiribati numerous times always wading (don't like fishing from a boat (maybe because I get sea sick) and have found a 10wt adequate for the Trevally found in the surf and flats. I am interested in Tom and Mike's suggegstions for actually just lengthening the grip. Sounds logical.
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By todays standards, 512 is a "small" addition! Today's graphics usage requires lots of ram.
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I am about to start building a Batson RX7 9' 10wt 4pc blank for use at Christmas Island . Are there any issues or problems with adding a fore grip to this blank? My last trip there the Giant Trevally wore me out trying to single hand them!
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I second the above recommendation! Sanding graphite fiber ends does not work, they will only fray and give you more grief!
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What kind of snake? Colors?
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Sounds like "fisheyes" usually caused by some type of contaminate. Things to consider: different thread? Different mixing instrument? Different syringes? Silicone is the usual suspect.
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I really like JP's idea of instructions on "care and use"! I'm going to put together a 1 or 2 page document to deliver with all future rods I build. Input very welcome and I'll gladly share output. I only build fly rods.
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I second the Batson recommendation. I now highly recommend any of their blanks (different actions and price points) to my clients.
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If you turn grips on a mandrel there should be no issue of not being concentric. Using a mandrel only slightly smaller than the blank butt then requires a little reaming to fit the taper. My experience is all with fly rods, I would never even consider turning a blank in my lathe, the risk/reward is just not here!
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Ray, I live in Alamo (East Bay) and teach casting as well as building fly rods. I'd be glad to help you with getting started casting (no charge) and have a big assortment of rods you can test cast to see what you like in the way of: length, weight and action. Maybe we could meet somewhere in the middle like Vacaville to get together.
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Try Bad dog Burls
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Yes he is. Lefty will still have the fly rods and Garry all the other rods. He also still has North Fork Composites going.
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A more lasting solution is to heat the rod area with the bow (hair dryer works well) to get it warm to the touch....not hot! Then hang the warmed rod or section by the tip top so it hangs straight down and let it cool. You may have to do this a couple of times, but it has worked numerous times for me, even with some pretty bad sets. Again caution in heating...not too hot!!
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The Batson 2wt 4pc RX6 is an excellent blank! I have built 3 of these for clients and myself and all are very pleased. Usually when one is fishing this light of rod, it is in small or skinny waters so the need for length of rod is far less.
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I have been watching this thread for sometime and have come to the conclusion that it is "much ado about nothing important to fishing!" I'm of the persuasion that 99% of rod failures are due to abuse or accidents.
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I also support the Anglers Roost recommendation I have built out 3 of their blanks and they are very nice and John is a pleasure to work with.
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