Love Rod Bond but hate having to wait overnight to start work on other things once I use this to glue things up. Tried Ultimate Gel 15 minute. Can't keep it from getting hard in the container. Have to microwave it each and every time I try to use it. I keep it indoors in warm temps about 70 to 75 degrees. White part still turns hard in a week or less. Heard about a newer 10 minute Rod Bond. Had h
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I've had to heat mine several times to get it back to useful condition. LIke the others said, it won't hurt it a bit. I've yet to see anything harmful or wrong with any of the epoxy resin I've heated to return it to good forum. It works just it did originally. Watch out for any flecks that might not get melted back into the mixture!! I had some one time that didn't go back into solution and h
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First the magazine, then this website and all its associated features and then the big rod Show. And now what? Whatever it is it will surely be great! Nobody gives as much to our rod building hobby as you do!
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Beautiful Job!
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Make sure the rod is level! I used to have the same problem but found my centerline wasn't on level. Once I fixed that my finish quit trying to work its way to the center of the wrap. Just something you might try!
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I don't like spatulas! My brushes shed in my epoxy! So, wondering if anyone has tried the little sponge foam brushes for applying epoxy? If so, what is your opinion? I assume they won't dissolve or come apart in epoxy, but is the application smooth? This is a great site. I always enjoy the answers and look forward to some helpful opinions this time around. Thanks!
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I'm guessing that when using cork tape on a surf rod you rely only on the adhesive backing on the tape to hold it to the rod and that you don't add any extra stuff like a two-part epoxy? Call me stupid but this is the first time I've really messed with this cork tape.
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Seems like somebody is always asking about a used Renzetti for sale. I just peeked on the buy and sell page and lo' and behold somebody just listed one there! Not me, just mentioning it for anyone that might want one and hasn't seen this one. Could be a deal for some lucky rod builder. Bet it doesn't last long!
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BEST issue I've ever gotten! Just keeps getting better.
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Interesting to say the least! But probably never intended as a fishing rod.
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Try putting them together and see what happens. I'm betting you'll figure out that the ferrules are part and parcel of the rod ends!
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Will a couple good arbors at each end of the seat be okay on a heavy duty boat rod or should I use a full length arbor! The seat is aluminum so I'm not worried about it getting crushed by the reel clamp. My mind tells me that two inch and a half arbors will be enough but just wanted to make sure. If it makes any difference I'll be using the Flexcoat type cream colored arbors.
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Curious about how you guys mount gimbals on the end of your heavy duty rods. I have a grip that is shouldered to accept a gimbal but I think the EVA in there might allow it some 'give' if you know what I mean. Would a more solid mounting on wood or even tape be better? I don't build too many of these types, just in case you couldn't tell!
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Best hand wrapper I think I've ever seen.
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I no longer spine my rods. They work as well or better than when I did. I really can't tell any difference.
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Cork, or "cark" as they say around here, will be better. Foam will cramp your hand after awhile.
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Haven't tried it but Tim had a new marbling kit at the BIG SHOW the other weekend. I have to assume it works with his Diamonite finish as well. I mean, surely he formulated it for use with finishes that include his own. Right?
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The tool shown in Rodmaker is the ticket. Get an old spade bit but make sure it's the long shank style. It doesn't have to be sharp because you won't be using the regular cutting edges. You shape new sloped cutting edges on the BACK side of the bit. I don't have those specs in front of me but do it like the article says and you'll be boring L - O - N - G cork grips in seconds. No other tool I've
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I know the rod builders there did pretty well. I saw more than a few guys carrying out finished rods that they must have bought on the show floor. It's got me wondering if I need a table there next year! Also heard about the "situation" with one builder not buying a table and handing out business cards and quoting rod prices anyway. It's a shame and I hope it didn't put a damper on t
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Most of my fly rods are uplock style. But I doubt it really makes that much different. Down lock might actually balance out better on a longer rod like that.
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I've got several two piece rods that I've been fishing for maybe twenty years now. Not a single one has every suffered stress concentration ahead of the ferrule to the point where any of them broke. So explain to me how this is a disadvantage. Theories don't scare me. I tend to base my judgements on how things really work in the real world. My two piece rods are doing just fine, thank you.
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Santa brought me a brand new Rikon mini lathe and didn't even scratch it getting it down the chimney! Also got the newest issue of Rodmaker mag and have to say it's the best issue they've ever done. Now the question, on the urethane cores, how hard are these to shape with just sandpaper? I don't have any turning tools yet--- Santa forgot those--- but thought I might put in some turning tim
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Once took a trip to Great Slave Lake and we pike fished in the shallows for a couple days. We were all rigged with 9ft 9wt rods. The flies are bushy and hard to cast although we didn't have to throw them very far! Any fly that landed next to a stick up was suddendly followed by a huge V wake and then an explosion that would send the water flying!! I'd look at a good 9wt and if you can handle
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Tim have you actually strung one up and tried it or are you just going by what somebody else is telling you? The reason I ask is that after reading your post I took my spiral wrapped bumper rods and tied them off and put a really good flex in them. The point where the line crosses by the side of the blank doesn't appear to me to move at all. That part of the blank is so far back that it doesn't f
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The 664 is "Da Bomb" The 663 is better IMO as a spinnerbait rod. Just depends on what you're after. I like the traditional heavy power rod for wormin'. The 664 can do it!
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The IRS will be in touch with him, trust me!
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I doubt another website or another event would have enough people to really get you any decent level of participation. This site and the ICRBE would be taylor made for this sort of thing because of the huge number or people involved. But I can see how Tom has enough on his plate already. Maybe one of the blank manufacturers could head it up or even one of the dealers. Shouldn't be too hard to dis
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Mud Hole EVA is very firm. I've never seen anybody's hypalon that was anywhere near as firm. Always found hypalon sort of spongy and rubbery.
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I don't remember the exact volume and issue numbers but certain articles stand out. The article on making your own wooden rods. The article on grip flocking. The article on the simplespiral-bumper wrap. The article on Musky rods. Any of Ralph O'Quinn's stuff. I never knew this Gene Bullard charachter but all his pieces add a nice touch to the magazine. And, ALL the articles on the Common Cents Sy
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Just for kicks I lined up a few of my rods this evening. Guess what? The spirals aren't the only rods with non loading guides!! Just about ALL my conventional casting rods have guides that aren't loaded until you go to a point where you have a pretty good bend in the rod. This is supposed to be bad? They've been working hard ad catching fish for a long time now. I'm not going to strip them down a
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