I'm thinking of building a "switch rod". The idea sounds intreguing. I'd be using it for steelhead/salmon. But I'm also thinking it could work for carp in the bay. What I need is info about grip setup grip shape. reelseat placement etc. I'm thinking of using the Batson 10'8" 7 or 8 wt blank, Not sure which line wt yet. with Alconite guides. Any other help or info is apprecia
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Just an update on the status of the Michigan Wolverines this weekend. University of Toledo(an Ohio team) 13 University of Michigan 10 I think their ranking is dropping faster than the stock market. Bill, are you sure your friend wants to be seen with a maize and blue fishing rod? Ha Ha.
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rick, Try it now. I tried to E mail you the other day but something didn't go through. I went to the shop and picked up 20 of the disks. if you need more let me know, it looks like they aren't going too fast.
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Bill, If you want me to look for U of M decals or other swag let me know and I can run over to the book store and see what they have. If you are going to have a block "M" decal made try copperplate gothic bold as a font. it's a close match to the "M".
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Notre Dame (another great school) is blue and gold That school in Michigan is "Maize and blue" Unless you're a Spartan then it's green and white.
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Bill, Don't hate me just because I work for those Maize and Blue guys. My son goes to School in the Buckeye State and I enjoy that. Are you worried about blank showing through the thread? Why not use a CP? I had to do a fly rod in those colors for a retireing prof. It was a black blank so I wrapped in blue and tipped in lemon yellow then CP it. I turned a blue acrylic reel seat ins
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I was at the local"scrap box" , a place where the local manufacturers send their cut offs and overruns, on Saturday . What did I find. Compocit cork disks in 2 and 3" dia x 1/8" thickness. The bigger ones where .10 each and the smaller ones where a quart size ziplock bag for 1.00. I packed 20 into the zip lock. I figure I can get one 1/2" x 1 1/4" ring out of
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Mark, Send me you address and I'll give you some. We went to a new machine at work and they were chucking a bunch of rolls of paper. I snagged a few dozen. e mail me at marquard@umich.edu
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Nick, If you want to repalce the guide, I can do that plus other stuff. I have some original H-I thread that would match. e mail marquard@umich.edu
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Backing line tapered leader tippet the same size as leader end or smaller
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send me a pic and i'll check it out. I've restored dozens of H-I but all my reference stuff is at home.
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Since I'm at work and don't have all my info in front of me I'm guessing here. If the signature starts with a "U" then I would guess it's a "Utica" model That "LD" may be a scraped "CA". the rod in good condition is in the $150 ballpark. Depending on condition a full restoration could run more than the rod is worth. But since it was your Grandfat
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I've done a lot of inserts lately with a super glue finish and really like that. Since yours is engraved I think you may have a problem with the superglue getting in the engraving and messing it up. my next suggestion would be Perma gloss. You can apply it while your insert is still on the lathe but I would hand turn it or at least turn at a slower sped while applying. I would stay away f
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Ron, My wife also has a Brother machine and I've thought about doing something simular for awile now. While I haven't actually tried it I was thinking about this technique. hoop a couple of layers of water soluble stabilzer and them embroider the logo onto that. Don't trim any of the connecting threads. Soak the logo until the stabilizer is gone position the logo on the rod and coat with CP
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I've got a customer that is insisting on snake guides on his new rod. I haven't used snakes in a while. Should I treat them like single foot and get down to the smallest size or do a traditional taper? It's a 8'9" 4 wt and I'm thinking of using a 10 and 8 mm striping guides then going with a #2 then 3 # 1 and finish with 4 1/0. Other question. do I need the "delivery syst
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I've got a customer who wants a fly rod to donate to his local clubs @#$%&. Heis thinking an 8 1/2' 4 wt. 3 pc. or I suggested a 4 pc since there are more options. med fast action I'm sure price is a consideration for him. Right now I just don't have time to look through all the catalogs etc. So I'm being a little lazy and asking the board for suggesions. Thanks in advance.
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Here's what I do for flats and reels seat mortices. First I don't use BLO. I go straight CA. I do the flats first. by stopping the lathe and spreading the CA on with a gloved finger and spread it even as possible. allow to dry then do your round parts. allow to dry. You will need to hand sand/ buff the flats withthe lathe stopped. Then sand /buff the round with it running. F
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Dave, If I were to do an entire grip with CA finish I don't think I would buff it out all the way to 2000 + grit. I like the sealing proporties but I think I would get too slippery . I was thinking of trying a thinner glue and saturating the grip and then just taking up to about 800 grit. But that's another project.
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OK so this may be a bit of a brag but.. I needed an extension butt for a old fly rod I'm redoing. inspired by everyones birch bark grips I tried some cottonwood bark I had kicking around from a carving project. The bark was about 11/2" thick. I used a 1 1/4" hole say to cut some pieces then cut those into 3/16" slices. Shuffled the slices and glued up. Re- Drilled the
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I picked up a old Herters 9' fly rod for a song and decied to rebuild/pimp it to be my new carp fly rod. I clean up all the scratches and had my friend at the body shop clear coat it. added a fighting butt and did a little diamond wrap to dress it up. Now I was just about to wrap on some snakes when I thought about single foot Alconites. The question is go with snakes and keep it v
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My first suggestion would have been an 8 wt. What kind of line were you using. I would go with a bug taper line. Someone even makes a line for pike. I think it's SA. Maybe try that on your current 8 wt. For pike that size I think a 10 is going to be over kill.
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The other night I cought the end of "Hows That Made" on the discovery channel. They went to the Thomas and Thomas factory and did a start to finish. I was amazed at the finish also. The epoxy was a hugh pool in a pie tin. Took the person about 5 seconds to do a guide. I can't losd the brush that fast.
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After years of doing bambooo rod repair I'm finally getting down to building a graphite rod for myself. It's a 7 pc 9' 5wt using amtak single foot halo guides and all the other bells a whistles. Wraps are a ligth lime green polyon. i've been burned too many times with 811 color preserver switch so help me out here . My original thought was U 40 color lock and multiple coats of perma
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just an FYI Cabelas has a 9' 8wt 7pc and 9.5' 7 wt 7 pc. both are on sle in their bargain cave right now for under $50.
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I'm getting ready to build a multi piece fly rod. 9' 5 wt. I'm thinking of using the American Tackle halographic ring single foot guides. Two questions 1. are these guides worth the money and do they live up to the claims of reduced friction etc. 2. what sizes/set up should I go with. I'm thinking I'll need 9 guides a 1 stripper. would this work #10 stripper 1# 8 4 #6 4#5 #5 t
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Also not a high volumn builder since most of my work is cane rod repair/restore. I would be interested if it was a saturday. What about just meeting at Cabelas in Dundee mi.? or maybe Jann's area.
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Just making sure I'm doing this right. using the polyon thread. Coating with CP(not Gudibrod) probably at least 2 coats. then topping with permagloss, several coats. I know I'll probably get a million suggestions but I just need the basics. yes/no
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Michael, I do bamboo rods all the time. Fred's suggestions are right on. The reason for the gorilla glue are that it is easier to find a small tube of it as opposed to buying a whole can of URAC for one small repair. also Rod bond is too heavy and not flexible enough. If you can get your hands on some benzoyl perioxide that kids use for zits, try it on the rust spots. I did it as a test and
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I'll add to that list.. Jann's I live close to them and if you think the mail order service is good. Stop into the store. Mudhole custom tackle Barber Ford in Holland Mi. Nick at Lowe's in Ann Arbor Mi. and the guy from the power company who re attached the power to my house after upgrades for a six pack of PBR.
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I've seen a jig somewhere, maybe goldenwitch, that uses a shop vac to hold the ring in place and suck up the dust . It attached to your band saw and was supposed to be able to cut a 1/2' ring into 3 pieces.
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