Thanks Herb and Tom, both of your comments makes sense. That's what I needed. Herb, the only comment I did not get is you observation that 'Glass makes for a slower rod - i.e. bends deeper for a given light weight.' Do you mean slower recovery or slower action? I would think that you meant slower recovery but you state that the next sentence and your comment that it bend deeper suggests tha
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Quick questions for those of you familiar with fiberglass compared to carbon fiber, I have had very limited experienced with fiberglass. 1. Does fiberglass' 'stiffening effect' (for the lack of a better word) differ from carbon fiber if the two are of the same diameter? Lets say two rods exhibit the same power and action with a 1 lb load. Would fiberglass generally bend MORE when one increa
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Mike, what size are you looking for? And what model? I used to have a l arge collection of Fuji Titanium SIC guides. They are dwindling but can check.
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Roger, I picked up 100 rings about a year plus ago for under under $1 a ring and there are flor no doubt. Really really nice stuff. Just have to look around a bit and maybe negotiate with sellers. Have hundreds of other rings that are equally high grade, meaning no one would ask for fillers. They have just enough tiny pits to give it a bit of that cork character but nothing deep. Since my gri
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I'm a stickler for weight and in your situation, I personally would use Torzite 3.5 runners. A lot of very high grade Japanese rods use them - I am talking some rods up to $1K each.
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I shape my cork grips and never use fillers. It is possible to find good cork - or at least I've been blessed. There's nothing quite like the feel of cork.
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I have one, not for sale, and do really like the design. Best wishes to you finding one. I thought they were still in business - apparently not?
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Mark, just got back to this thread. FASCINATION. I had no idea. So you fabricte ring for the TN handles. What else do you fabricate with aramid? And why - weight? something else? I can take this off thread and email if you wish. Always looking to learn when it comes to Ultralight stuff. Thanks.
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Mark, not sure if you are following this thread. I was going to suggest a hacksaw too. However, you stated that kevlar is a whole different animal and implied that hacksaw won't work. May I ask what you use to cut Kevlar and what happens if you try to cut with a hacksaw? Thanks.
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Michael, what do you need to know about the Perigee?
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Understood. But the more sensitive one had lower stiffness to weight ratio...
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes the additionaof any weight even a tiny amount > WILL reduce sensitivity as this is a process of > stiffness to weight ratio. Any weight added > reduces that ratio so sensitivity is reduced. By > how much and if you can feel it by hand really > depends on how much weight as a percent of the
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LOL.... thanks for a good chuckle, to those of you who bemoan a subject that has been already discussed many times. And yet you post here. Those with this opinion are not wrong of course - this has been discussed ad nauseam. Of course, there are also those who still find this discussion pertinent in some way and there's freedom to dialogue. This is the beauty of a public forum. As long as
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LOL, spool capacity depends on one's needs. I for one pay more for lower capacity spools as I use UL lines and don't want to waste unneeded line every time I respool with fresh line....:) Of course, I fish freshwater and don't need huge amount of line. Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Some reels cast better than others. That is just >
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Bill, I have not read through other posts but here are a few quick thoughts: 1. With 1/64, I presume you are using around 2 lbs test or some other fine diameter line? If so, I am not sure if 9 feet is optimal length. It may be that a shorter rod - say 8 feet may actually cast further. I'm not sure. I do wonder if the added number of guides may reduce casting length. 2. In my experience,
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Quick note. I got a bunch of pretty high end Japanese UL rods and cast 2 lbs fluoro and a size 1000 reel. Some of them even had a size 12 first (butt) guide. (Fuji Torzites) I found that those with distance from spool to 1st guide of about 23 inches actually had the longest casting distance. I had, in the past, been building with about 20 inches distance. So I now build with a longer distance b
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Kent Griffith Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mark Talmo Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > > I prefer to get the line to the bottom of the > > blank as soon as possible to reap as much > benefit > > from the spiral-wrapped guides as possible, > > This idea is a misnomer. Gett
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Todd, Again, per my post, it depends on context. I build very lightweight Ultralight rods that are 1.2 ounces and below. That's 34 grams and below. If you add 2 grams on the top half of the rod, the average fisherman will absolutely feel the difference in the recovery and jigging. I mean, many of my lures are 1.5 grams and it makes a world of difference casting with a jig and just swingin
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Phil, you ask "how, after I release the line, the rod's stored energy pushes the line and lure forward - but I would welcome an explanation of how the rod pushes energy up the line?" I believe that after your release the line, there is very little additional gain in energy from the rod straightening if any. So the straightening of the blank is already starting to happen before you r
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Todd, I would say that whether 2 grams is a huge difference depends on the type of rod and weight distribution. 1. Rod Type. I build ultralight rods. Some of my 7 feet equivalent rods are 28 grams. I am about to build a 6' 6" equivalent at under 23 grams. (sub 0.8 oz) Yes, that is very light weight and the blanks are super ultralight. With rods that light, 2 grams is absolutely n
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Phil, what you 'did wrong' is that you released too early. The rod does not push, it pulls on the lure. And you have to hold the line longer for the pull to be longer so that the potential energy in the loaded rod begins to be released and transfers into kinetic energy in the lure. By the way, I'm not sure if you are dialoguing with me or someone else but since I dipped my toe into the conve
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There's no stopping and waiting for the rod to straighten. I think that in the one smooth casting motion, the rod does start to release its power towards the end of the stock right before one releases. BUT I could be wrong and you could be right indeed. I'll do some observational tests next time I'm out on the water.
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A couple of addendums: 1. The added weight's impact is related to the percentage of weight added. 2. Paint impacts blank performance. For a heavier blank, paint on it probably barely is perceptible if at all perceptible. However, for a UL blank, it is definitely perceptible. There are also different thicknesses in paint. I know because I have had identical blanks bare, painted with u
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Interesting thread. I've always been interested in weight, especially as I build only ultralight rods. I scanned through all the posts but only scanned them. A few comments. 1. I build as light as possible, in part, as an aesthetic exercise. So even if there are no additional performance gains, I just enjoy pushing the envelope on how light I can build without compromising ergonomics.
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Measuring only Flor grade cork, I have measured significant variance in cork ring weight - about 1/3, meaning it takes 3 rings of the lightest stuff to equal the weight of two of the heavier rings. And I would say that the rings I measure are genuine flor grade. So depending on the weight of your cork, I wonder if some cork may still be lighter than CF.
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Thank you Tom. Helpful. Yes, I find that the stiffest and softest axis then to be 90 degrees off each other. At least in the blanks I build. Mo Yang Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > QUESTION for you Tom if you are still following - > HOW did you attach weight to the blank tip capable > of holding 20+ lbs? For UL I just attach weights > us
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deleted. Posted by mistake.
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QUESTION for you Tom if you are still following - HOW did you attach weight to the blank tip capable of holding 20+ lbs? For UL I just attach weights using masking tape but that is not the most elegant method. I once had a blank tested by a manufacturer and they sent me photos and had some kind of rubber tube that they simply put on the blank tip and the pulling tension tightened it. I could n
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I'm not sure if anyone commented on this. 1. I am surprised by how CONSISTENT the blanks are in breaking strength. Every single blank with the natural soft axis broke in the 22+ lbs range. Every blank in the strong axis broke in the 23+ lbs range except for one at 24.1 lbs. The data actually gives me confidence in building. I've always wondered about consistency of break strength. 2.
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Kent Griffith, That is an amazing read about Don Mook and others. I'd love to get my hand on a Mook blank you mentioned just to see what it feels like. I don't even need to own it. Are any of them UL powered or about 3 to 4 wt fly blanks? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
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