Roger- No the lower frame guides do not create line slap. By the time you get to that point the line is traveling straight out, not spiraling around in circles as on the first guide or two on a spinning rod. This is why the New Guide Concept works so well on spinning rods with very low frame runners. The line is controlled and moves parallel to the rod. There is no up and down or circling movemen
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Who have you submitted this proposal to?
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600 views, not 600 people. Big big difference.
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So now you have the CCS, a modified CCS, the RDA and the PPR. Not confusing at all. Can't miss. Good luck.
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I would normally be a proponent of all double foot guides on such rods. But I have been doing some testing with single foot guides on medium heavy saltwater rods. I would stick with double foots through the lower half of the rod and then switch to single foots on the top half. BUT! The strongest single foot guides I have found in terms of durability and not twisting or tearing out of the wraps ar
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I don't think you can compare the domestic made Garcia's and Fenwicks of old to the current offerings of either. These are brand names stuck on mass produced rods out of Asia. So if you are talking about current production I think you can buy better blanks from a number of custom suppliers including the ones you mentioned.
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This is from the FAQs page on this site. It works. 20. How should I go about mounting EVA or Hypalon grips? Should I heat or boil the grips to make them stretch? There is absolutely no need to boil the grips nor is there any reason to use any sort of lubricant to install them. Neither is required if you put your adhesive in the correct place. Do this - 1. Drop your grip over the rod t
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Tony- if you want to know how relevant Rodmaker mag is, think about the current trends in things like carbon fiber grips and micro guide rods..... these things were first unveiled to the rod building public in the magazine TWENTY YEARS ago! That is how far ahead the magazine has been and still is. The step by step instructions are well written and photographed. It is a very high quality publicati
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Matt Ruggie Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I vote take this private and delete this thread. A year ago this sort of post would not have lasted an hour. Things change.
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"Building a Cork Lathe from a Drill Press" Rodmaker V6 #2.
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At one time Grizzly made a small wood lathe that you fitted with a drill, corded or cordless. They were less than fifty bucks and really did a great job for turning cork or soft wood. Only thing if you find they still have them is to make sure your drill collar will fit in the part on the lathe that accepts the drill. There are two different drill collar diameters.
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It was in an article in Tackle Trade World. They showed $$ not yen. If it is a misprint and it is yen, I will feel a lot better!
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So the Zenaq rod company has just introduced a top of the line saltwater rod that sells for $12,000. Saw it in a trade magazine and wondered if it was a joke. Apparently not .The question is..... do they actually sell any at that price and if so, who would pay that much for a rod that cannot possibly be thousands of dollars better than other top line commercial rods of the same type.
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If you have any craft or hobby shops nearby sometimes they have syringes. I like the type that do not have rubber plungers. If you get syringes with rubber end plungers make sure to pull the plunger and wipe off the smear of silicon grease they sometimes put on those.
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I am not familar with the Eternity models. If you are only casting 30 to 50 feet and if it is a very fast action rod I would maybe go to an 9 or even a 10 wt. line. If the rod is soft in the mid area stay with an 8. Most rods of 8 wt and above for saltwater are rated for casting long distances I would say 65 to 90 feet.
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The line or lure weight a rod will cast is not all about rod power. Action plays a role and so does the person doing the casting. Power is not casting weight. This is why I asked what brand the rod was. I might not necessarily put the same line on one of the SW Winston's as I would on a SW Sage even if both are ERN9.
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Fly line prices have gotten out of hand. There is no reason to buy a $100+ line but the choices in decent lines in the $40 to $50 range are disappearing fast. It is becoming a boutique sport all over again. Where is TFO when you need them???
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At 50 feet you will be OK with an 8 wt. just as it is listed.
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If you can tell me the brand I could probably tell you more but I would not line it with more than an 8 wt just as it is labeled. If you are a proficient caster and can double haul then yeah a 7 wt might be even better. WF or shooting head?
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If you know the 20+ year history of this site then you know it was all done and kept running by just one person --- Tom Kirkman. He sold it maybe a half year ago and we all hope it will continue as it has for the last 20+ years.
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I would not use snake or wire guides on any fly rod. Casting and spin fishermen stopped using them 50 years ago and fly rod makers should too. They are dinosaurs in a modern age. I build fly rods for hard fighting saltwater fish. There is no comparison between snakes/wire and ceramics. The ceramics pay out line way more smoothly and never groove. They are the only way to go. Even on lighter fly r
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There is no such thing as a single foot snake guide. All snake guides have two feet, which is why they resemble and are called snake guides ---- the shape. There are single foot wire guides and I don't care for them either. There is a difference in rod sensitivity and plain old sensitivity. Using one line or the other does not change the rod's sensitivity but can change overall sensitivity.
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Everybody is looking for the perfect epoxy and every time a new one comes along they get glowing reviews and people make the switch. Wait a year and another miracle epoxy will come along to replace the last miracle epoxy. They all work. I have tried many but always come back to Flex Coat. I figure there is a reason that nearly every commercial rod making operating in the U.S. uses it. It just wor
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Everybody is looking for the perfect epoxy and every time a new one comes along they get glowing reviews and people make the switch. Wait a year and another miracle epoxy will come along to replace the last miracle epoxy. They all work. I have tried many but always come back to Flex Coat. I figure there is a reason that nearly every commercial rod making operating in the U.S. uses it. It just wor
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I have had some spine guys tell me that if you build a spinning rod off-spine then when you have a fish on the rod will twist so that the guides end up on top. Really? C'mon now......... There's a reason we put gimbals on guides on top rods--- they are going to twist and turn no matter where you put the spine. Granted the more the load the greater the lever arm thing will be but even under small
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You can hand wrap with a power wrapper. You cannot power wrap with a hand wrapper. Go for the set up that gives you both options. Get the power wrapper.
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It will be supported by the blank so it is fine.
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I ignore the spine nonsense and build on the straightest axis so there is no crook or curve to deal with.
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For the guys who build on the spine, you still need to put your guides all along he same axis. Forget line of sight. Having guides on different axii all along the rod to obtain line of sight when the rod is unloaded can cause problems when it is loaded. If you put them all on the same axis then the instant the line is loaded the guides will pull the rod straight. I cannot imagine how far off line
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Flourocarbon is a bit more stiff than regular mono. We usually only use flouro for our leaders.
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