Well I found out what I wanted to know ,almost everyone but me uses hot melt. I think 35 years ago if I remember right one of the problems with hot melt was on really hot days with your rods in your car or even fishing the glue would soften and the tip would turn. I don’t know if the glue back then had a lower melting point or what. The hot melt today is probably better. That being said I’ll stil
Forum: rodboard

The Rodcrafter magazine that I’m talking about was back in the 1980’s and was made by Dale Clemens who wrote a few books on custom rod building and had a rodbuilding supply company near Allentown PA.
Forum: rodboard

I’ve read a few posts on here recently about installing rod tips and they all talked about using the hot melt glue. I almost always install my tips using the 5 minute Rod Bond. I was just wondering does everyone else use the hot melt glue? I’ve been building rods for about 38 years. When I first started I used the hot melt glue,then I read an article I think it was in Rodcrafters magazine, about
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Thanks for the information. I see that Mudhole has what I’m looking for.
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I have 6 grandkids ranging in age from 22 to 2. I’ve built them each a fishing rod for Christmas when they were around 5 years old. I also built my daughters rods when they were 5 or 6 years old using Fenwick blanks,that was back in the 1980’s. The last 2 for the grandkids were on Netcraft fiberglass blanks which cost about $12 to $15 each but they no longer sell them. Does anyone know where I ca
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Is there any reason why you shouldn't put a metal ferrule on upside down,female part toward the tip and male part toward the handle? I have a broken rod that was smashed up pretty bad and I think the best way to fix it is with a metal ferrule. It was a 2 piece tip over butt so the tip diameter is a lot bigger than the butt diameter so the metal ferrule fits a lot better upside down.
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Thanks for your response guys. I bought the new bottle in December and just opened it a few nights ago. The bottle of clear 811 I was probably using for at least 2 years and I really liked it. I use the white CP like Flex Coat when I'm doing a wrap that I want to end up darker than the thread color to match the other wraps. I never heard of the Carsons Crystal Clear, but it sounds like something
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I bought a bottle of Gudebrod 811 color preserver last year. The bottle looked different, it was all white instead of red,black and yellow. I just opened it up to use it and was suprised to find that it was white like Flex Coat C P instead of clear like the others that I had before. What's up with that? Did they change it, or is something wrong with what I got? I really liked the clear. If I want
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I've done alot of rod repairs over the years. A number of times a guy would bring me a rod with the ring of the guide popped out and ask me about glueing it back in. I always told them that I just replace the guide and thats what I did. I got to thinking the other day after getting a rod with a popped out guide ring, What kind of glue does the factories use to hold these rings in? Would it be wor
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I've been building rods since 1983 and always set the guides up by test casting and stress test. I just used the new concept guide set up as described in the Rodmaker Mag and in the library. After setting up the rod I took it outside and did some test casts. It cast great. I was really pleased. My question is do you still need to test cast before wrapping or are the guides going to be exactly whe
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Thanks for your replies guys. I think I'll stick with the way I do it now. I've always had good results. I don't have a need for a longer cure time. I get a rod coated with out any problems with the finish getting to thick. I don't use a rod dryer, I turn the rod by hand everey 5 to 10 minutes. So a quicker cure time is helpful there.
Forum: rodboard

I was reading a thread below and everyone was recommending a Lite epoxy rather than a High Build. I've been building rods for over 25 years and have amost always used a high build finish. A tried Flex coat Lite years ago when it first came out and I guess I just didn"t see any advantage to using it. I usually put 2 coats of finish on a guide wrap. Both coats are light. After the first coat d
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I always use the 5 minute epoxy. I never had one come loose using this. You can still remove the tip with heat. It takes a little more heat though. Regular epoxy you can not heat the tip and remove it.
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Is this foam the same foam that is used for insulation that you can buy in sheets at Home Depoy?It is pink and closed cell. I use it to make duck decoys and then burlap them using tile mastic. Just curious because I have alot of pieces of that just laying around looking for something to use it for.
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This post reminds me of one that I started a few years back. I don't remember all the details but the thing that I really remember wasthe order was for around $30 and the shipping was really high, like $15. Part of the shipping charge was $3.00 for the box which was an empty Gudebrod thread box. Everything that I bought fit in that small box that they got for free. I laugh about it now but I was
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They were the Aetna foulproof guides. I don't need any at this time as I got the rod repaired that I had. I was interested in knowing if there were still any around so that if i would get another rod in to repair that has them on I would know where to get them. Thanks for the information guys.
Forum: rodboard

Anyone know where you can buy foul proof guides?I had a rod to repair that had them on and needed 3 new ones. The only place that sold anything like them was Mudhole. I ordered some from them. They would be okay if you were putting a whole new set on a rod, but they didn't match the ones that were on the rod. I rooted around in some junk boxes that I had and found some used ones that I used. I wa
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