Keith Yes Rog
Forum: rodboard

Norman P S I have purchased blanks and components from a number of the forum sponsors and not have had a problem with any of them. They all seem to offer pretty good service. I also use a homemade lathe (I like it !), so i can't vouch for any of the commercially made models in the larger all inclusive kits. Rog
Forum: rodboard

Norman Rod kits are an excellent way to get started. That's how I got up and running about 15 years ago and I'm up to about 47 or 48 rods now. The kits I started with were Cabelas kits but they got out of the rodbuilding part of the business a good while ago. Start out with a moderately priced kit for a rod or two. Mudhole MHX kits offer good bang for the buck, and their CRB kits are just fine
Forum: rodboard

Guys I like the "barb" shape on the guide foot! Its what helps keep the guide pulling out from under the wrap without using a locking wrap at the end of the guide. I use a medium "flexi-file" to take the shine off of the top surface of the guide foot (less thread slip). I wrap 3 or 4 passes of thread past the barb and then push the wraps back toward the barb. The thread see
Forum: rodboard

Scott If you have a lathe, put the grip on a mandrel and get it turning at a fast rev. Use a 2' length of rod wrapping thread (and using leather gloves) pull it taut and press it down on the grip where you want to cut it. Rog
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Christian I vote for the KL20H also ! Rog
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Frank I'm with Norm on this one. Both will work fine. I personally build / fish with a bunch of 6'9" to 7' ML / M spinning rods and the same line types / sizes that you do. I prefer a #20 stripper guide on my guide train layouts. It offers me more flexibility to change out reels with different types / sizes of line on them. When I fish the lakes I use reels with #20 braid / flouro leaders
Forum: rodboard

A long time ago I switched from single use brushes to better quality brushes and I wash them out after each use. My current brushes have been in use for at least 2 years and still do a very nice job for me. (probably 9 - 10 rods or so) I get these brushes in big box craft / art supply stores and have 1/4" to 3/8" wide flat bristles. They come in packages with about 6 or 7 brushes, and t
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Andrew #40 polyneon thread seems to be slightly smaller than A. #30 even smaller yet. I have used #40 threads on guide or butt wraps on a few builds, and have mixed it in with A on some wraps. Do not use cotton or rayon thread, use the poly threads, such as Sulky or Floriani. I always seal the poly threads with CP. Rog
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Bob My ThreadMaster Lite epoxy bottles have "ThreadMaster Lite" on the bottle label. I'm assuming that you have regular build. Rog
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Don It is the only one that I have, and I think I'm just going to build it and use it for PA river smallies! I think it will make a nice rod! Rog
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Jeff If it helps at all, I have a unused AVP842-BL (viper series, popping, 1/4 - 1/2) blank in my blank stash! Email me if you have any more questions. Rog
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Zack I do it the way that you do. Glue rings on a mandrel, shape the grip , ream, then mount on the blank. Rog
Forum: rodboard

Matt That's exactly what i do. The cost of the components & shipping, plus $20 for cp, finish, adhesives, thread, etc. Rog
Forum: rodboard

Michael I use Threadmaster Lite all of the time. I also use 2 or 3 coats on my guide wraps. I have never had any problem with applying a 2nd or 3rd coat after 2 or 3 days if necessary. My ususal wait time for is about 24hrs. Rog
Forum: rodboard

Ron I have built many (40?) spinning rods for myself and friends and family. We use these rods to fish for mainly for smallmouth bass on Pennsylvania's Juniata and Susquehanna Rivers. Most are between 6'6" and 7' in length and most are rated for 6-12lb. line. A "spin jig" type of rod blank between these lengths and line ratings will work very well for smallmouth bass fishing in th
Forum: rodboard

Rick I use Titebond III. Its a water proof wood glue and works well for gluing up cork rings. Rog
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David Absolutely! I have done this many times, both with cork and EVA foregrips. Rog
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I do what Tom W. does. A plastic sleeve is a nice touch that does not cost much. I also include a build sheet that states what components, threads, finishes, etc. were used just in case a repair / duplication is needed and work is to be done by others (out of the area). No cost / pricing info is put on this sheet. I keep a complete list of all related info for the rod in my possession. Rog
Forum: rodboard

Jay There is a Winn grip option for the VSS reel seat available. I have one the lathe as we speak. Rog
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Mark A Stanley sureform plane (as Phil stated above) will even out the non concentric cork rings and give you a good rough starting point to begin any sanding needed. Rog
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Sean I have built about 45 spinning rods, all in 6' to 7' lengths. I have used 6 1/2 - 7 - 7 1/2" rear grips in most all cases, depending upon the reel seat type and the uplocking / downlocking orientation. I mainly sit in my boat to fish and find rear grips longer 7 1/2" in length tend catch on shirts and jackets while fishing. Rog
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Jimmy DO NOT use cotton or rayon threads! USE nylon or poly threads! Speaking from experience! Rog
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David Check with the vendors on the left. They might have discontinued blanks left in stock.
Forum: rodboard

Jerme Another method to warm the finish to release bubbles is to hold a 60W (+ or - ) incandescent light bulb about 5 - 6 inches from the finished area for a minute or two. I use my bench magnifier lights and position them over the finished area as I slowly rotate the rod. This also causes the finish to level out nicely. Keep an eye out for late forming bubbles, especially near the guide foot tu
Forum: rodboard

Mark First of all let me state that I am a "hobby" rod builder. I just build rods for family, friends, and the occasional neighbor (about 50 so far....to many friends). I have used CP on all of the rods I have I built. When I choose a thread color to use, that's the color that I want to see when the rod is completed. I also take a long time to build a rod - wrap a couple of guides to
Forum: rodboard

Another way to warm the epoxy before mixing it to pop the epoxy bottles and the mixing ball into your shirt pocket for 20 or 30 minutes before mixing. This gently warms the epoxy without overheating it, which shortens the pot life of the epoxy. This method works well for me. Rog
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Bill Volume 21, Issue 5 Rog
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Jerme I think Get Bit also stocks Fuji NoCP threads, which I think is one of the better threads out there! (I have bought some from them in the past) Rog
Forum: rodboard

Neil Sometimes applying a lot of pressure (tightness) to the thread will also make microscopic fuzzies to pop out on some threads. I have backed off the tension on my thread tensioner a little and i see less fizzies with certain threads. Rog
Forum: rodboard