Scott- Yep, that was the one! Thank you!
Forum: rodboard

Awhile back, maybe a year or more, someone (sorry I can't remember who!) sent me a pdf or word doc that had a step by step photo instructional on feather inlays. Can you guys help me get a copy of it? I've scoured my harddrive and I can't seem to locate it. Thanks ahead of time! Defjam@core.com Domenic Federico In
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The answer to your question is "Yes, there is a way for a small time builder to save and qualify for wholesale pricing." But, you have to be willing to deal with the paperwork necessary to support that privilege. As mention, two documents that will get your foot in the door are a employer identification number or FED EID and a county Vendor's License. The EID is free, just call the
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I'd like to hear your suggestions on a rodblank that is 10.5'-12' long (2 or greater pieces) with a 10-20# rating and in the color black. I'm all ears and thanks ahead of time! Domenic
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I had an issue with a reelseat being just a tad too long. Use the suggestion of putting a spacer built up of multiple (if needed) layers of masking tape on the underside of the reelfoot....I did and it worked perfectly!
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I wonder how much effect the steelhead we get here in ohio would have on the recoils. Most fish are in the 4-10 pound range. We usually get a few good runs out of them before landing, but nothing like what a salmon will produce (or NY steelhead for that matter). I've used the AMTAK Titan/RSPG Recoil combo on many of my customer floatrods and haven't come across this issue yet. I've used them
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I'd have to agree with Tom's comment, but I'll tell you that I use a series of grinding stones and machine oil. Being extremely cautious to follow the angle that the tool was originally sharpened at. I've got the most expensive chissel set that Harbour Frieght sells (and it's fairly inexpensive) and haven't had any issues with getting a good finish on my turnings. Domenic Federico Infi
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I'm leaning toward an underwrap in an orange color with an overwarp in a lighterbrown. The blank is chestnut brown. I'm gonna take the advice and test out a few wrap combos on the butt section of the blank before installing the cork. That way the thread experimentation can all be covered when I start the actual build. D
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I appreciate the effort and suggestions Chris, butI think this thread has gotten to far off base. I'll restate the purpose: If you, as a rodbuilder, have any good photos of underwrap/overwrap configurations that are contrasting colors and the cp / no cp that I originally suggested, please email me. I'm looking for that effect similiar to candy apple paint jobs on motorcycles and hot rods
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Chris- I knew the weight subject would creep into the conversation. It'll be less of an issue because of my guide selection choices. I planned on putting an extremely light coat of epoxy on the underwrap and the overwrap would be finished up with non-ncp thread and another light coat of epoxy as well. Guides will be my usual "go-to's" Titan's NIV's in 20,16,12 then to Recoil RSPG
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Current project has me wondering what an underwrap - overwrap configuration would look like. Blank Raven 14' IM8 Steelhead 3PC Float Rod, brown in color Proposed wrap: Underwrap in CP'ed or NCP thread in rust, orange, or some sort of lighter shade of "orange-ish" color...maybe even a gold trimband or two along the edges of the underwrapped. Overwrap in brown or chestnut thread
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David- Please email me when you get a moment. I build steelhead float rods primarily and I have a few tips I'd like to pass along to you. Defjam@core.com Domenic Federico Infinity Rod Creations Wickliffe, Ohio
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I have always used a jewelry file when things like this happen..... As stated, be careful how far you grind the finish off. Clean up the dust and then reapply finish. It'll disappear along with the sanding marks right before your eyes.
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Duane brings up a technique I've used with flex coat high build. On one guide I somehow applied an excess amount of epoxy which led to the "droopies" on the other side of the guide. I found it the next day....allowed it to dry for an additional 12 hours and then took my jewelry file and ground it down. Recoat with epoxy and all is well in the universe. I agree that using the same
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On the area I place the decals, I like to do a thread border. Usually on the one end will be the thread wrapping the hookkeeper. I'll leave a space for the decal area and place a matching thread wrap top side border. I will then CP the threadwraps (choice) and the blank area. When that is dried, I'll put one layer of epoxy on the blank in between the wraps. Follow up with the waterslide appl
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Self imposed slow time: October through December February through April I schedule builds around these months to accomodate the runs we get here in Ohio. Busiest time of the year May through the end of September. Everyone wants a rod built in time for the fall. Infinity Rod Creations
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Lathes are quite dangerous indeed. I was using mine last week to center bore out some wood stock for a friend who's turning them into reelseats. I wasn't paying enough attention and when backing out the jacob's chuck / drill bit from the wood I was boring, the chuck became loose in the tailstock. (Cue slow motion horror movie style music and frame rate) As I angled my torso and face back and
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I've been using the better quality waterslides from Deb @ Decal Connection and have never run into problems in regards to application. I lay down a layer of CP before hand and apply the decal (when applying to the bare blank surface). I've never had bad results using this technique. The recent posts have me wondering why you guys use microsol/set, but more so, why I haven't had too? Domenic
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I would add one thing to the great responses. Scuff up the back of the coin with sandpaper for better adhesion.
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Michael- Email me please. Defjam@core.com Domenic
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I use a jeweler's file to remove the knubs...an "dust" left after a I blow them away is epoxy that'll melt back into the second coat and become invisible. I have one of the worst environments for guide coating and I'm almost always 98% happy with final results after two coats. (the 2% accounts for the fact that I'll never been completely happy on any of my work) Domenic Federico
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You find that you have a question about a particular rod blank, you call the hotline number for the manufacturer, you are greeted by a live person and transfers the call to yet another live person who just so happens to be the owner! Wait it gets better! You ask some technical questions, get educated knowledgeable answers, and then, as if that isn't the best thing since slice bread, the per
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