If you're leaning towards an 8', I'd consider the Castaway XP3 964P that Swampland sells.
Forum: rodboard

jim jackson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This was my plan too. I regret it. Stripping these > things down is no bueno. You can get new blanks > for $20, or overruns for even cheaper. that's what > i'd do if i could do it all over again. U are > going to spend too much time stripping when you > could be wrapping and learning. Jim J W
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Absolutely...try beartoothwoods.com for their double bottlestopper blanks.
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Wade fish the lower Texas coastal flats, tossing 1/8 oz jig/soft plastics to speckled trout/redfish/flounder/black drum. 10-12 lb mono/baitcaster w/ 7' ML popping blank. Striper/hybrid striper fish locally between salt trips with alittle heavier gear, also w/ plastics.
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Billy, unhide your email addy, and I might could help.
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Just referenced the Mudhole catalogue... .998" OD for 16mm seat, 1.08" OD for 17mm seat
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Marty, I've only used the 16mm, and turn my own grips...I do mine on a slight taper, 24.5mm OD at the very front up to ~26.3mm., 3/4" back.
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Why use threaded rod for the cork ring glue up, when you can use smooth, waxed steel mandrels for glue up AND turning? Tom has shown how to make a cork clamp .
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Fish don't break rods, fishermen do. I'd say go > with an ugly stick. Maybe the Mudhole above is a > tough rod, but I know ugly sticks can take the > abuse. If I were in the charter business I > wouldn't even consider having custom rods built > for my business. Wow! I can go w/ the idea
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I'm purty sure I'm winning the Renzetti this yr, tho the other three are great possibilities! HA.
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Not to beat this in the ground, but my perception is, if you want to share cab FARE, you need to meet up BEFORE you pay at the taxi counter. I've been fortunate in the past to share rides w/ Mark Blabaum, Phil Erickson, and Dr. Hanneman, but in each case, we met on the outside taxi curb AFTER each had paid a full fare.
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Ken, do you mean negotiate at the airport counter? We don't have a taxi counter at DFW, and you're one on one w/ the driver, but it seems different there.
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I'll be getting a late start on the show, but will be at the airport about noon...anyone else flying in about the same time? Past experience has been, once you pay at the GSO taxi desk, you might share a cab, but each rider pays the full fare. Jerry
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I hear ya, Chris. Felt the same way until recently, when I needed to order some more small logo decals, and found out the waterslides were no more. Ordered a couple of pages of the newer peel 'n sticks from decal connection and was pleasantly suprised to see they were fairly thin, as well as having a peelable layer on both sides of the decal, unlike the old ones. No more fingerprints/handling is
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I can tell you that me and my buds wadefish in S.Texas w/ P843s or P844s...seldom using a popping cork. Most of the time, tossing a 1/8 jighead/soft plastic. I bring a P844 if I know I'm gonna be throwing 3/4 oz Fat Boys or big Spooks. Either can readily handle a 28" redfish...the P842 , mostly for schoolie trout, not the sow trout or slot reds.
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Wes, my old AS guide shows a BESH 1322-2, listed as a noodle spin. 11' 1/16-1/4oz, 2-8lb, slow, UL, 4.5 tip, .465butt. That's all I've got
Forum: rodboard

David Gilberg Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It is a sad day, indeed. We have lost a dear > friend and shining star of this Forum. > Mike Barkley will be sorely missed by many for > years to come. Well said, David! RIP, Mike.
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If you do an online search for each university color, ie. "UVA orange, pantone" you'll get a # that can usually be matched closely w/ the ProWrap...look at the color chart, they give the pantone #s of each shade they have...that's what the 'P" stands for.
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Several past posts have discussed this, here's one. Note Scott Parson's post mentioning the UV inhibitors in most resin finishes...glowinc.com even mentions it in their "medium compatibility"
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IMO, the plastics work the best. For colored ones, these are nice, but require prepping the plastic and using polyurethane glue. The "high tech plastic spacer" is really thin. I use it alot.
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Billy V and the NERBS used to sell it...
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I've only used them as trim, but have noticed that the "spotted" is harder to shape due to it's black matrix heating up while trying to turn down. Definitely harder to get a smooth, eased edge with it, at least for me. Between the 2, I'd choose the reg rubberized. Being trolling rods, I guess you're not too concerned w/ their weight?
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Lance is at ICAST in LVegas until Sunday
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Yup, I picked up some from the Skin Shop a couple of yrs ago at the ICRBE. They ARE thin! I've personally had no luck trying to flesh one out w/o tearing/perforating.
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Curiosity got the best of me...I've got a couple I didn't try to use...sure enough, w/ magnification and a razor blade, I was able to discern they're peel and stick. If ya need a couple, I'll drop em in the mail. Jerry
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Here's a side by side color comparison. The PW319 may more accurately describe scarlet, but it's not a match for G326, IMO.
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I think it depends on what kind of plastic, but if it's the thin plastic spacer stuff from the knifemaking site, the Titebond polyurethane is the ONLY glue that I've found that works(thanks to Mark Blabaum). That's after trying rodbond, superglues w/ a plastics primer, etc. Still, I cleaned and prepped prior.
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Ron, enable your email addy, and I'll try to help you w/ the star pattern.
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I said Atlanta, but after careful reconsideration, I think Steve Gardner is on to something w/ having it in conjunction w/ the fishing expo in Greensboro....location, time of year, etc.
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I know it couldn't be Corpus Christi,Tx so I'm gonna go w/ Atlanta, Ga. Lance, you dog!
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