Comfort is pretty individual specific, but I have always liked the butt of the split to be at/around my elbow joint when holding the reel seat for pitching/flipping/TX rigs/jigs/etc. How people hold the seat dictates that distance. The retail bass rod world gives you grip length as the length from the end of the butt to the top end of the seat or foregrip, whichever comes first (on foregrip-l
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Kevin I think it's hypothetical that you absolutely need double footed guides, however most rods built with a +15-20lb minimum line rating will likely be found with double footed guides. In the end, I wouldn't say 100% no to the single footed runners. One of the best retail swimbait rods I have used ran 4x double footed then all singles to the top. Never had an issue with it. If you look ar
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Patrick Coco Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I just finished a cb705 build. I cut mine down to > 6'10. It'll make a great chatterbait mini max rod, > or even a great 3/8oz jackhammer/stealth blade > rod. You can go up to a 1/2oz jackhammer on it I'd > think but I'd stick with a spunk shad type trailer > if I did that. > > If I wan
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David on most swimbait builds (most) you will see double footed guides throughout. I think you can still go with a 12/7/6..6, a 12/8/7..7 or similar to your liking, but I would go 100% double foot guides. No need for underwraps. 8's would be overkill, unless you plan on using non-FG join knots on 50lb or 65lb braid to >30lb leaders. The only way I would use 8's is if you know you will use
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Logan Summers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The Delta CB 705 Zentron is an incredible > crankbait blank for bass fishing....Not even > considering the price. But when you DO consider > the price you can get them for on sale, it makes > it that much better. I've built on the Delta > Zentron 704, 705, 706, 7115, and 7106 and they are &g
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David the SW765 is a stout blank but it will work for what you are looking to do. Considering it's somewhere between the SWB806 and SWB807, I don't see how it wouldn't work, although it may not be the best for a 1oz bait. Understanding you can't feel those SWB blanks bend in hand, take a look on Rodhouse (see link below). If you mainly throw 1-2oz swimbaits, I would probably go with the SW764.
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David the SW765 bends in between the SWB806 and SWB807, I'm pretty sure it will fit the task. You could probably use it for targeting dorado with live bait too (being serious) or smaller grade tuna both on 20-25lb leaders. I've caught >50lb tuna on lighter actioned blanks than the SW765.
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I think it's hard to go wrong with almost any NFC blank as long as you build it for what you need it for, but you just never know until the blank is in your hands. Unless (hint) you utilize the CCS log. That may sound like an excuse for not recommending a blank, but there's plenty of people who love an MB665 HM for throwing TX rigs (I know one) and others who would rather use a MB667 HM or MB66
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I moved to the G2 earlier this year and it's fantastic, no complaints but I also waited to purchase based on what I read on various forums. From what I can tell, most everything that was originally complained/griped about has been fixed. My only criticism is the rubber boots on the chuck can wear out pretty quickly if you are clamping on any uneven surface (i.e a saltwater fighting butt), but i
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Try this link and search "GammaBeta" and you should find what you are looking for, I have had the same experience as David for fly builds.
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I can't comment on the XO handle, but when dremel cutting a blank I use my shop vac tube in close proximity to the cut to reduce dispersing the dust. I also put 2-3 layers of masking tape centered over the cut line to help further reduce debris/dust/fracturing when making the cut. What I will do is gross-mark the cut line on the blank, center the tape & wrap 2-3 times, then re-measure and
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I have built out quite a few MN tops and can confirm none were welded. None have had any reported failure either (all built & used for saltwater/pelagic fish).
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I still think people overlook the MB734 HM and MB735 HM for finesse jig/bottom fishing for bass, I love those blanks. They aren't for fishing heavy cover/trees, but for open water structure fishing? Amazing blanks that cast light baits superbly. Confusion on NFC ratings - I have found the line ratings to be a better guide over anything else and have held pretty accurate to their claim. I al
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This document is a decent GUIDE... I repeat, it is a GUIDE - there is no substitute for taping out after marking up the correct placement points, but the pdf link below provides some ideas/concepts with Fuji's products for a long list of applications. If you're a rod geek it's a pretty cool document, it has a load of ideas to test or use to build something unique. I have referenced it fo
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The video line Tom K provided has served me very well on a lot of guides. I have started to use spatulas more frequently and I have also been very happy with the consistency of the guide edge by doing so, almost more so than using a brush. See the link below to Falconer's video in which you only have to watch 10-20s of the 20min video to see what has worked really well for me, the link should s
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David please send me an email and I will send the pics and product/color key your way. I have 12 or 13 different colors epoxied.
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It's a small detail item but I have found that wrapping with black A thread or D thread (depending on how oversized the top is) then gluing will help the top sit more symmetrically. Most people won't notice the difference with or without the thread, but I think most builders tend to be a little detail oriented which is why we would probably just order the right tip top, but I admittedly have don
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Thanks David, this was really interesting, insightful, and appreciated. The lighter NCP colors look great based on your images, would you say the same holds for most of the lighter shades as well? Understanding a database/catalog of this would be best, just curious so I can more carefully spend some money on thread this week... I have some epoxy work coming up and can likely provide images f
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I have done both and applying the sticker over a base coat does give it more character. Base coat needs to be on point - well leveled and free of any defects/bubbles/fish eyes.
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Patrick are you looking for a slow pitch blank or a heavy jig blank? They are usually not the same.
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I use an NFC MB735 HM for finesse jig work and that covers the ned rig as well. Awesome blank for it, as I am sure the Point Blank options are awesome too. I don't think it matters if you build the 735 HM as a casting or spinning configuration, just an overall great finesse jig blank. I run 20lb braid on mine with a 10lb fluoro leader but I bet you could get away with an 8lb fluoro leader ju
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chris c nash Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That's great Ken , sounds like you understand > exactly what's going on , a 30, 20 ,10 will work > very very well for what you want to do and you > still managed to avoid using the 25 ,the 16 and > the 12 . Very well done, I'm very happy you got > it figured out and thanks for the kind word
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I wanted to bring this back to the top because I too am thankful for the folks running this board and to all that contribute. This site is amazing, a lot of information to be explored in the archives - it's literally an information library for rod building.
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I have built & fished on the FLIP764 and 766 HM's, I would consider the 764 a finesse flipping stick. It has a pretty moderate action, very sensitive. If you are fishing sparse cover where you don't have to horse on the fish, and you need to use smaller presentations the 764 is great. The 766 is a little beefier, still a fairly moderate blank in my opinion, but both are incredibly light.
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I second that, thank you Geoff for making this right, it says a lot about the brand.
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Certainly not complaining about Alps products, I had no plans on filing a complaint or asking for anything. Just one of those one-offs where if it makes it to your final build without noticing you could be frustrated if you can't find an adhoc fix for it. Geoff - the image has been uploaded as requested in your link.
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Just wanted to share a learning from installing Alps aluminum seats on some recent salt builds. I typically use the flat on the backside (for conventional reel config) as an alignment tool for setting up the seat to be aligned with the straightest blank line, and subsequently the guide train follows that line. Where I failed was to check the seat itself before epoxy. It turns out the seat it
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Chris I am seeing this today as I am lining up the reel and guides I disclosed and I agree with you - it's not going to work for a rapid reduction train. Surprisingly, by mixing up a few guide sizes, I was able to get a 30/20/10/8 ring size on the KW's to line up pretty well with the reel spool axis and it flows into my tape outs for the running guides. Mind you this blank is a decently fast
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Chris I am running 30-50lb braid main line with leaders 15-30lb. The reel spool is ~60mm so I'm starting with KW30, dropping to a KW16 then a KW12 however if it doesn't line up well on the blank I may toss in another ring somewhere in that mix. Running KW8's to the top after the reduction train. Will try to remember to post what works out.
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MB664 is pretty darn good for the application you are looking into. It will handle smaller topwater poppers (Pop-Rs, ricos), and you will find you don't over sweep a jerkbait with the shorter format. Go with an IM or a Delta blank - you don't need an HM for this. If you are looking for a z-spook or topwater stick bait rod, look at the NFC Zentron 705 or MB736 IM or Delta, these will launch t
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