Just my opinion - A quality custom rod is much more than just an assembly consisting of pre-formed grips and guides wrapped according to a chart. I used to invite customers down to my shop where they could flex various blanks, look at grip materials & length options, and plan guide sizes and layouts according to reel, line size, and casting ability if required. Many of my customers opte
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Downer Alert: Not sure if you are aware of it, but if you buy components, assemble a rod and sell it, you are considered a manufacturer and are required by Federal Law to collect the excise tax (FET) on sport fishing equipment and send it to the government. To do that you'll need an EIN and you will file a quarterly form 720.
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For lots of ideas just type "custom rod thread art fade wrap" into your internet search address bar
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Here's one I did on my wife's walleye rod This one is only 2 colors. Doing a fade as a guide wrap might make you go nutty, although I have seen some salt rods with the wrap extending from the fore grip to the first guide. I would suggest trying a fade wrap on a smooth wooden dowel or old piece of rod blank. Keep your hands clean and your thread tight. It actually looks okay to wrap 2,
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I had some luck using a large metal bucket on a turkey fryer burner. It took a long time. The good news is that you'll only get the water to 212 degrees so your chances of hurting the blank are minimized. I've also cut nylon seats off with a dremel.
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I haven't had any problems recoating a fairly fresh build. On older rods I always clean, then hit it with grey Scotchbrite.
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Brody Haakenson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I use cold snap reel wraps on all my ice rods and > have yet to have problems. I like them because it > doesn't cover up any of the handle Brody - I have seen those, but never used them. It looks like it would feel a little weird. How are they for comfort? I'm not worried about covering up the han
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I agree with Roger. You should be okay without doing anything but dust removal. I like to use blue painters tape to gently blot the wraps to remove dust. Before putting on the next coat you can slice off any thread nubs with a new razor blade.
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The reason for the filament tape is because it does not stretch.
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It is Scotch Filament Tape. I just used red because I got a bunch of it free.
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Thanks Bill! That thin black line is a 1/32" slice of burnt cork. I cut it on the Mudhole cork slicing jig by using a thick washer in the bottom of the jig. Drink decaf and go slow with the saw.
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This is how I have been doing it. The secret is to use filament strapping tape, then cover it with heat shrink. You can also cover the strapping tape with electrical tape but that always seems to shrink a bit and leave sticky residue. This is an ice rod I just did for myself.
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Sounds like you're all set! In the past I have used a disc sander to square up a handle so that I can attach a new butt cap. I made a simple jig so that I could keep the rod square to the disc and it worked great. This was on a crappie rod that had a rear grip about 2" longer than I wanted. If you're dealing with a split grip you have a bit more work. Sometimes you can wrap over the
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All these things need to be worked out prior to the build. I would not cut 2" off the butt of a new 7' 2" rod for a paying customer. I have too much pride and perfectionist in me. You might have to eat that one and build him a rod on a new blank. Personally, I don't care for a long handle in the colder months with a heavy coat and PFD on. I use Rod Bond on handles, and I warm it
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I got sick of test wraps so I wrapped a scrap blank with all my threads. I did two bands of each color thread about 1/4" apart, then I applied CP to one band. Then I finished the whole thing.
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I know walleyes will hit topwater but never heard of anyone building a rod for it. I'm guessing he made a paste error? FYI - I used to do a lot of shore casting for walleye at night. Once, my line came of the spool in a ball of crap and I was messing with it when I heard a big splash and felt a tug. A nice eater sized walleye had hit my Bagely floating minnow crank. I pulled him in hand ov
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I've been meaning to post these pictures for a long time. Some folks believe that "micro" guides are a recent trend. Here are two rods that I bought a couple years after I got out of the Navy in 1978.
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Yup, I remember all the M&M volumes. Everyone pretty much agreed the standard was 4 and under. Personally - I don't see a 5mm as a micro.
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Posted by: Steve Gardner Date: August 01, 2010 08:27PM Taken from RodMaker mag. Volume 11 Issue #5 article on Micro guides Quote; "The purpose of this article is to discuss the merits and any shortcomings of these very small guides which have only recently burst onto the rods building scene. We will limit our discussion of "Micro guides" to guides of size 4mm and smaller"
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Nice and clean! Good work.
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It's a general term to describe really small guides. Generally 4mm or smaller. Interesting to note that this is not a new concept. I have store bought rods from the early 80s with tiny guides. However - the use of these small guides on bass rods caused quite a stir back about 2008 or so. I'm pretty sure it was Steve Gardner that first wrote about it. Edit: It was actually in 2007. Rodma
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Yup, I've been doing that for years. I think I read about it here. =)
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James Taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Depends on the presentation that doing, but this > is what I personally use for Walleye. > > For Bottom bounce I built up the RainShadow > REVELATION REVC76M - > > velation-bass-casting/ > > For top water I used the RainShadow REVELATION > Crankbait REVCB76M - > > v-b
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I have a lathe. I always pre drill arbors to a larger ID. If no lathe, then Tom's method will work fine.
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Jon - do you really think someone would get hurt from a rod you built? And, if they did get hurt, would it be your fault or user error? Either way, I don't think anyone would bother to sue you over it. Just my opinion.
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Wipe the bottle top clean and keep it in the fridge or you will be unpleasantly surprised the next time you try to use it. On a humid day it cures right now, so be very quick.
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Roger - I have purchased the disposables from Mud Hole in the past in packs of 100 in two sizes. I mostly used them for repairs and various shop tasks. I just didn't like using them on customer rods, and they are pretty useless for 3 and 4mm guides. I ended up buying some really nice small art brushes for small guides. A nice 1/4" ox hair finishing brush is $2.25 retail from Mud Hole
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Maybe I'm the exception, but I would need 4 to 6 brushes per build. What a waste. Two coats on the guide wraps, two or three coats on decal areas or large thread wraps. I don't try to do it all in one shot.
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Do yourself a favor. Buy a bottle or two of TRONDAK U40-6-BRUSH CLEANER 4 oz.. 1. After using the brush, wipe it clean with a paper towel. I like the (mostly) lint free blue shop towels (cut them into easy to use squares before hand). 2. Put your brush in the brush cleaner bottle. 3. Wrap a piece of foil around the mouth of the bottle and brush, and form it closed. 4. Pull the brush up o
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