Chuck, Applying CP on top is a good tip. I could understand the need to using CP before applying PermaGloss. I think it eats through the inks. It ate through and desolved an inscription that I had worked hard on last week. Never experienced that problem with Flex-Coat or Chrystal Sheen finishes. Do you know if a specific brand of CP is better at this than another? I typically use the Flex-Coat
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Pat, I don't think there is a specific proper sequence, but it does take some getting use to to feel comfortable with the process. If they are nicely-packed, even, and stay together when you pull the tags under, you did it right. I think the key to doing good, consistent trim bands is to find a method you feel comfortable with, and stick to it. I learned how to do trim bands by reading throu
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Stephen, Underwraps prevent the guide feet from damaging the blank. Builders also use them to add additional decorative elements to their rods. In the distant past, rod builders used to be advised to underwrap all guides whether the rod was built for fresh or saltwater. Now, I think the general rule is to wrap the larger saltwater guides such as the roller guides. As I don't really buil
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Hi Putter, Since you noticed the twisting as far back as the early 1980's, do you suppose the twisting is more prevalent in fiberglass rods rather than in graphite rods? I've sat on the sidelines of this issue for quite some time, so I still don't have a strong opinion on the matter, but I do have questions. Thanks
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Jim, I'm not "sold" on the benefits of spiral wrapping as well, but I am interested enough that I do plan to build my next baitcasting rod before the King Salmon start their annual runs up here. In all honesty, in fighting the big Kings, I don't recall torque being an issue on any of the baitcasting rods I have bought or used. Maybe a side-by-side comparison in the field might help me
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Ed, While it does sound like it would be high or too high, there are builders who do use 100 - 200 rpm motors. I usually apply finish without a motor, or use a 30 rpm motor, so I don't honestly know, although I've always wanted to try applying finish at those speeds for comparison. How different are the finishes you apply to arrows? I would imagine the results would be close if you use similar fi
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Hi Robert, IMHO, if the section doesn't flex easily enough to locate the spine, then I wouldn't spend too much time or energy trying to locate it. On the multip-piece rods that I have built or have bought, the vendor warns against spining the sections because they are so much more shorter than one or two-piece rods, and may be subject to stresses that might cause them to break. They may have alre
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Dave, Nice job on your first project. Your wraps and finish look nice and sharp. I'm curious why you choose to use a single foot guide as your tip guide. Not being critical. I just wondered what your specific reason was. I recently finished a 7 piece rod using titanium single foot carbide guides, but choose to install a titanium wire tip top guide instead of the matching carbide tip top g
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One last suggestion that I had picked up from writer L. A. Garcia is to use a metal knitting needle: I use a stainless steel needle, size US 9/1.25mm, or smaller. I barely dip the tip into the finish, and manually rotate the rod while holding the needle lightly against the edge of the wrap. It puts enough finish on to seal the front edge of the thread against the blank. It works well to put a con
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Burton, I was taught to begin my application of the finish from the middle area of a wrap and to slowly and steadily work my way to either side, slightly overlapping the edge of the thread. I work the finish by firmly pressing the brush onto the wrap and "plow" the finish towards the edges. Rich Forhan provides a pretty good description of the process on the library link (above) t
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I do mix at least in 10 cc batches, and I don't try to economize to avoid ratio errors. I mix and scrape longer than 3 minutes, and definitely until the mix appears clear. I've had to redo one too many rods resulting from uncured finish. With this batch last night, I poured some onto foil, and used the rest in the cup to cover the inscription area. Both set around the same time. And now
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Tim, I can't think of any particular motorized speed wrapper (except the Renzetti ?) that might be anywhere close to being precisely trued. Add all of the variations introduced into a rod after components are assembled, and you've got yourself a piece of "stock" that ain't going to be balanced very well, even at moderate speeds. And I don't think the wobbling would indicate to me that I
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Over the last few weeks, I've finished a couple of rods using Flex-Coat Lite. I do like the results, but I've noticed that it starts to setup after 15 or 20 minutes. I expected to go at least 30-35 minutes, but haven't found it to be. I do some at least 5 minutes scraping the sides of the cup and and thoroughly mixing the two parts. Is anyone else getting the same pot life or are my expectati
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Mick, Thanks for the info. I've been told by some guys in the rod shop I used to hang around in, so I have always made a point to avoid anything that is silicon-based or impregnated with silicon. I guess it wouldn't hurt to run a few tests to make sure.
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I thought silicon sandpaper does cause issues with the finish? Is this true or not?
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Scott, Shapies do a good job of covering or at least blending the grinded areas with the the rest of the guide as long as you find the right color. But I don't think the stuff in Sharpies is paint. It washes off with water. When I need to coat or cover a scratch like the one you describe on a guide or a reel (as well), my go to tools are the Testor's Lacquer Paint Pens that you can pick up at mos
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My first Alaska-bought rod is a GLoomis GL2 HS-1021. I have had to replace only the guide attached to the ferrule. I recall it was a little difficult to remove, but not any worse than the repairs I've made on other brands. The guides do look like the no-frills Fuji guides, but, while they ain't the lights or prettiest, they do the job, and although I can't back it up with real fact. I've heard or
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Chris, It might depend on where. The bottom half of a rod is more likely capable of taking a number of inadvertant hacks. The further up the tip top end you go, the easier it is to cut into a fiber and damage the rod. I only have a very limited understanding in layman's terms here. But as I understand the rod blank manufacturing process, the resins within the cloth to make the blank, migrate so
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Sam, I wasn't embarrassed at all. I can handle being criticized if someone disagrees with my posts or opinions. If you disagree, that's fine, but tell me why you disagree. I think what makes this forum so successful is that anyone can chime in on a thread, regardless of the circumstance. This is a great venue for sharing ideas and promoting discussion among hobbyist, craftsmen, professionals, a
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Well Sam, if you've got a better idea other than to suggest that he use it up on a rod tonight, I'm all ears. Once the bottle is opened, Permagloss will continue to thicken and then harden, whether or not the cap is cracked. Based on your "experience", do you have any suggestions on how he might save what he can?
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John, Excellent and useful response. I'm sure others including Christopher and myself appreciate it. Patrick
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Wrap a little plastic wrap over the opening and screw the cap back on. Or wrap the whole bottle in plastic wrap. But just in case you didn't know. Permagloss continues to harden, once the cap is initially removed, so it is wise to plan to put it into use sooner rather than later anyway. Good luck
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In cold weather, larger guides tend to stay clear of ice buildup longer than smaller guides. Fly rods in particular, may benefit from using over-sized guides to accommodate all of the leader and tippet knots. Smaller choke guides on spinning rods may hamper the the ability to cast a line farther, but once past the choke guide, smaller guides probably don't affect rod performance. I try to match
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Mike, I use that stuff too. I was thinking about that when I initially responded, but couldn't think of the right name for it. I like that stuff. It does work great for removing cork real fast.
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Ron, I work my cork handles up the same way you do, on the rod and chucked up in a power wrapper. I do all of my shaping using rough to fine grades of sandpaper. I make my own sandpaper backers for support.
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John, Glad you posted your problem. I've built multi-piece fly and spinning rods, and I plan to build more. Never considered the possibility of worn ferrules and loosened rod tips. Royce, All of my multi-piece rods connect just as deeply as a two piece rod. I suppose there may come a day where I would have to consider gluing loose section together in order to continue using it. If anyone know
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You know, I would bet that just about every rod builder, at one time or another, wishes that he or she had access to a video to view and replay how someone applies finish "correctly". I know I did. While I remember thinking about that when I first started, I don't worry about it so much now since I've done it enough times to figure out how I like to do it. My point is that while it
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Tom and all others, I'm glad that "any" rod building event takes place, and is meeting with success. That your show is located on the east or west coast is moot for me since I've got to endure hours of flying out of Alaska to go anywhere in the lower 48. While the timeframe doesn't permit to attend, I hope your show continues good success. The important thing is that the word is getting
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I've seen factory-made rods like this before. Can't say I've seen custom-built rods like it though. I think the reason why it is done is to save time and labor. It's definitely quicker dunking the whole rod into a tray of finish then it is to apply it like we all (hopefully) do. To get a bunch of rods out the door and into the hands of the public is certainly faster. I hope the rod you repaire
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The good thing about applying finish using the manual-turning method is that you can brush the finish on at a slower rate, rather than trying to stay ahead of the motor. When I started building my own rods, I found the "hump" from the guide leg a little unnerving. I found it is easier to sort of plow some finish ahead of the brush to provide adequate coverage on the guide foot and forwa
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