Ryan, What kind of guides are you looking for? Snake, single foot, wire, ceramic? Stainless, chrome, titanium, holographic ? Are you looking for a double or single locking reel seat? What kind of grip do you like? There are questions I ask myself when I'm building a rod for me, or for anyone else. Many of the sponsors, as well as other vendors who cater to rod builders sell rod components
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John, I've read that some other builders apply CP. Haven't tried that yet, but will on the next rod. Thanks
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A little heat helps to get thickening finishes flowing again, but you really want to work an inscription area as little as possible to prevent the inks from flowing into the finish. I prevent that problem by making the work in the inscription area a two-part process. I put a light sealing coat on it, let it dry a day or two, and then put a final finish coat on it.
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Stephen, FlexCoat is a great product. I use it often, and the rods I have built over 10 years ago still look great. All finishes have their pluses and minuses. All have their fans and critics. Good luck.
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John, I use both methods. Well, actually three different methods: turning by hand, using a slow motor (6-30 rpm), and I've played with a 100 rpm motor setup. I think the method you use is more of a preference rather than one being better then another. I like doing it manually when the mood strikes me. I think I like the manual method more when I am finishing a rod using PermaGloss, or when I'm w
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Mike, I like and use two-part finishes and PermaGloss. I you are only building a rod or a few rods, pick one and stick with it. If you think you'll build more and often, try out several.
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Practice, pratice, and more practice, on something other than the rod. It's an art to writing on a blank without making it look like it was written by a third grader (no offense to 3rd graders). I use lacquer and ink pens that I buy from art supply stores. I seen the results from gel pens. Few have been written and sealed successfully.
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Sorry, Mike. After reading and re-reading your response, I guess it wasn't really unreasonable. Next time yer in Alaska, I'll save you a spot on my boat.
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Holy Smokes Jesse, and Mike! I didn't mean to get your hackles up, but you guys need to get off of your high horse and unwind a little bit. Freebees do come in all shapes and sizes, including pamphlets. Maybe I just hit the right shows, because I always walk away with tons of reading material, free magazines, etc. I buy my own rods and reels thank you. But if a vendor is giving away promotional g
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When I go to similar shows where you can expect to get lots of materials and other freebees, I take a day pack. It's easy to shoulder and your hands remain free for accepting tasty samples.
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I left bare wraps unfinished for as long as 18 months without any adverse affects. In that instance, I guess I consider it a lucky happenstance. Typically, I seal wraps within 24 hours with CP or PermaGloss.
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Paul, Ted is pretty much on target. It's a relatively easy fix, if you've done it before, and are set up to re-wrap guides. If you've wrapped guides before, you can do it yourself without changing the look or feel of the rod. If you haven't, then I would suggest that you contact a local rod repair shop or builder and and let them make the repair. Just getting up to speed with the bare necessitie
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Paul, I am a little confused about Allen's response myself, but I don't think he was directing his comments about your post. I think when he says "Specked" , I'm pretty sure he was saying "spec'd" or specified, as in specifying a 4 wgt.
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I agree that a heavier line weight might be easier to use, but I am curious as to the instructor's preferrence. I don't know if I would change rods or line weights to satisfy an instructor's preference without good reason. Your customer/friend should take the time to find out why, and work on a resolution that allows him to maximize his learning experience with the tools he has, rather than for
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Bill, Great re-use of a resource. I'll have to save some of my spools and try that. I'm an old scrounger from the word go!
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John, I find that all chucks, adjustable or non-adjustable, having their particular quirks. I like Jim Shafer's suggestion, as long as the chuck is adjustable. But Sully's is a "friction" fit unless I'm mistaken. I found a website that ilustrated the wooden dowl procedure, using masking tape to adjust for thickness and to add a little more holding power. Flex-coat drying motors, wh
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Tommy, I don't concern myself too much about the spine. but I still build along the spine if a rod is straight. If a rod has a pronounced curve, I have no qualms orienting the guides along the curve. However, if I am building a rod for someone other than myself, I do make certain I orient the guides along or opposite the spine (depending on the type of rod). I do that just in case the rod owner b
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Dan, Have you turned grips on the Renzetti? How do they come out on the Grizzly?
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Lance, They all do the job well enough; some better than others, so it may come down to cost and precision. Space might also be a consideration. I have owned a Batson power-wrapper for several years now, and use it for much of my rod building work. I like it for the fact that I can shape cork. It does a decent job, and I have the flexibility to use it for power wrapping, or for use as a finish
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Steven, I completely understand your concerns, but situations like yours do occur, no matter how careful or skilled you are. You could probably survive a "dirty" underwrap if the thread was a color other than a light color. But if you can't effectively cover it, I think you are doing the right thing by redoing it. I also know guys who have recommended "painting" the underwrap;
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Steven, I can relate to your dilemma. I've reconsidered my original answer. I guess if your overwrap covers it, it might be okay. The question is will it show through when you apply finish? Will the overwrap effectively cover it? I've never wrapped with white thread, only light shades of grey. You are your best judge in this instance. Good luck.
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I would remove the offending wrap, and re-wrap with thread further into the spool.
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Can't send you a product key, but if your email can be viewed via a web browser, open the message up and extract the attachment that way.
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Rick, The chain is a real nice touch. Good forethought.
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Bill & Charles (or anyone else for that matter), I usually write my inscriptions directly on the blank. Have you done the same in the past and switched to writing on the flex-coat instead, or have you always done it that way? I am curious to know if you found it easier, or if the inscriptions turn out better by laying a coating of finish on it first. I guess if I ever really make the effort,
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Tim, I've applied finish almost immediately after applying the decal, and never experienced any problems. The only problem I have run into is if I don't use a seal coat, or I spend too much time leveling out the finish over the decal. Both situations can cause the inks on the decal to run or smear.
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Chris, Don't beat yourself up too hard on this, because I've talked to other builders about this same issue. The fact that you have not wrapped the ferrules on your surf rods, and that they haven't suffered as a result, probably proves your point to a certain degree. I always wrap the ferrules. I've heard the discussions and merits are on boths sides of the issue, but I personally wouldn'
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I agree with Elias. Nice contrast of colors, but try to finish the wrap as close to the end of the ferrule opening.
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Curtis, They shouldn't come to you bent. I would get on the horn or email customer service.
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Mike, I've used them both. I used the lite version on the rod I just finished. They both work well. If you like a thinner cure on your wraps, definitely go for the FC Lite. Working time for lite is 15-20 minutes, at least it was with the lot that I'm working with.
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