I have done metallic red, blue, as well as Burgundy and all outcomes have been awesome. I tried silver didn't like it as well as the gold. I haven't tried green yet but it should work also. The red and blue metallics were my favorites though. here is a link to the burgundy.
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My loop is 20 lb spectra with a glow bead on the end of it. Just turn out the lights and no problem in finding it....
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I love aftcote also so easy to use and very flexible even with age. If the rod was in my hands that would have never happened. I scuff them on occasion but never like they were on this trip due to crew. I have repairs to do so I am going to try alot of options before I apply them to my butt wraps I think I will still use Aftcote for the rest of the guides though..
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Just looking for a tougher epoxy than Aftcote. I am using 18 inch foregrips with cold shink inlayed into the hypalon. I thought 18 inches would be long enough to keep it off the buttwrap but eventually not.
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I just posted a photo of a SuperCow caught on my 6463xxxx with all roller guides. The rod as well as others took a thrashing on the rails. Boat rash is very bad. I use Aftcote epoxy and think I have to look for something a little harder. Well I have rods to repair now Mine......
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I use hypalon under my rail rod foregrips. I install them at full size and then turn them down so the diameter of the finished grip will be what I want. I use the 3m cold shrink 18" product.
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Tom, is North Fork Composites an omission? I was > under the impression they were going to have a > display. listed on the list above between Decal Connection and NERBS - (Northeast Rod Builders)
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I do it the same way with heavy blanks. I built a bracket and use a 45 degree angle to set the rod in then I use a small block and tackle and 1/4" nylon rope and some 200 lb spectra loop. I have a eye bolt on the floor as well as the ceiling that is adjustable for various rod lengths and use a tie off cleat. I glue up the tip and tie off the spectra loop around the tube of the top as well a
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Raymond and I agree and that is what I do. I wrap most of my tigers with A, and C is my sacrificial thread. I have done red metallic and blue metallic as well as burgundy metallic and all have come out just fine. A lot of trail and error but when I went to the C thread as my sacrificial my problems that I was having evaporated and I was happy with the results. I tried the removal of two threads a
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I use a lathe and start with cutting up 60 grit belt sanding belts into workable strips and work my down to 100 grit and then finish with 220 grit norton sanding sheets. The belt sanding belts are stronger and don't seem to loose their grit as other sandpapers do especially the drywall mesh type. Just a tap on the belts will dislodge the dust and they last longer.
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Thad, If a sale is made, even at the cost of parts, the tax is due. Whether you make a profit or even if you lose money on the transaction, if a sale is made, the tax is due on the selling price. So if you build a rod for a friend, and sell it for the cost of the parts, you must charge him 6% of the selling price or $10, whichever is less. That is what I was trying to say..but I see it
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Unless you build a rod or two for a friend at cost of parts and there is 0 profit. The taxes are still due...
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I can vouch for the American Tackle Titan guides. This past June I caught a 261.2 lb yellowfin tuna on a Super Seeker 6465 4x with a set of those guides on purpose I might add. They are some tough guides and no need to worry about welds since there are none. They handled the 100 lb spectra just fine also. I couldn't have made a better choice even though I had my doubts on fishing regular guides i
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Wasn't the 2X4 it was the 6463 4x. I couldn't keep leaders on the 2x4 because of sharks and would pickup my back up the 4x and the tuna seemed to like that rod for some reason.. Still caught sharks on both and they ate there fair share of my Wahoo. I also ended up with 2 sailfish as well as 1 striped marlin on a wahoo jig. I did catch some 100 to 130 lb yellowfin on the 2x4 and it worked just fin
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I am recovering from my 15 day trip aboard the Red Rooster III, All my custom rods that I built were flawless and handled these large fish with no problem. I had my reserves about using the standard guides for large fish like these but the American Tackle Turbo Titans I used were also just as strong as the giant Yellowfin tuna were. I ended up the trip with 9 tuna (261, 236 and 1 knocking on the
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Anyone have the model number for the renzetti turning motor mine just went out and I can't read the name plate? I would like to pick on up from my local Dayton parts supplier if possible just need the number to cross reference. I am talking about the turning motor not the 1/10 hp wrapping motor. Thanks.
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From what I have been told about Spectra Braid from Blackwater and Izorline is that braid will never cut a guide alone. It will be the dirt, sand, or the crystallized salt that gets into the weave that does the cutting. So most any quality guide will work.
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This is a thread that I started it may help if you haven't already did a search. There is a lot of useful info in archives. I did use the Wind on stripper and took the advise of the board and went with the heavy duty aftco rollers after. The only reason for the wind on stripper is to gain clearance for the line coming off the reel, your thumb and the long foregrip that a stand up rod has.
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I also wrap with a Base wrap of A over wrap with D and then a lite layer of finish on the D to give me a smoother surface to wrap a layer of A on top just to give me more color options while using Maderia thread. Bill is right if it is not broke don't fix it. Bill I did give into consideration that It may be used on a small boat or on the troll because of the mention of the aluminum butt. M
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Hey Bill First sentence: "I am in the process of selecting components to build a heavy salt water stand up rod and need advice on roller guides." Seeker and Calstar are using the heavy duty series Aftco guides on their rods with rollers. You probably know their reputation. Roller guides do require more maintenance to keep the rolling freely. Since you are using the Hollow S
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The ringed turbos dissipate heat just fine. A 200 to 300 pound Yellowfin Tuna will do just that to your 30 lbs of drag but you will be backing off the drag when the fish is that far away. It is not so much of the drag on the reel as is the drag of the line in the water also. If you are going to be using wind on swivels or large knots then I would have to suggest the Aftco Wind-ons for knot clear
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The American Tackle Turbo Titan guides are also worth a note of consideration. I was at the Fred Hall Show in Long Beach, CA last weekend and had my hands on a Seeker 2x4 rod built as a Stand up/Rail rod with those guides as well as a NITT top. That rod took a 299.9, a 223, a 199, a 198, a 234, and a 192 Yellowfin Tuna. Fished with 100lb top shot to 130lb top shot. If using hollow spectra as a ba
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Thanks Sean didn't even think about looking for a grip at other lengths other than what I wanted. Sometimes something so simple can be so hard...
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sorry about that Tom didn't know but do now.... I have checked all those and didn't see any that were that fit what I wanted online.... I will contact them and see...I did see some that were 1/4" thick but were pricey if I am going to stack them up to 14 inches. I was looking at a sheet of rubberized cork flooring 36" x 36" x 1/4" and I have some hole punches that I can use
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I am looking for some larger rubberized 1/2" cork rings to build some stand up tuna rail rod grips. (Info: Rail rod is used to fight a large fish ie Yellowfin Tuna around 200lbs using the rail of the long range boat instead of the stand up harness.) I need at least 1 1/2" diameter 1 3/8" will do but would like the 1 1/2" in order to turn down. I got some rail grips from Merri
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Yea make your own and put a glow in the dark bead on it. I you lose it just turn off the lights....
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I use madeira thread all the time on my renzetti I have to slide the thread rod over which is just a minor adjustment. I have no problem delivering more than enough thread tension without any problems. With a two homemade bushings I can even use the 4oz spools.
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thanks
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This is what I have done. I took a 1x4x16" piece of oak could use pine or whatever. I glued and used counter sunk screws to connect the ends to form a 90 degree L shape. I used a piece of 2 inch of PVC and made a hole to accomadate the PVC set at 45 degree angle. I then screw it into my wood floor of my shop. Since I epoxy all my saltwater guides especially roller tops I run a 3/16 inch rop
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I know that the drive belt can be had at Grainger does anyone know the part number or the belt number so I can get one tomorrow.... Just broke mine and have Christmas gifts to complete. I know I could get them from renzetti but would take to long. I also know that I cold wrap by hand but still will take me longer. Guess I am a spoiled power wrapper.. Thanks
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