I just completed and tested a "Cut Down" rod - I was salvaging a broken factory rod. The rod sheared-off about 3/4 inch from the fore grip. (This removed approx. 13 to 14-inches from the butt section of the original rod length.) The original rod (St. Croix Mojo Bass model MJS71MHF.) was 7'1" in length and called a 'Medium Heavy Power' and 'Fast Action'. The piece I could salvage
Forum: rodboard

Leonard, First, I highly recommend doing a CCS test on any rod you want to mimic. Carefully follow all the steps for how to do the test as CLOSELY as you can. It's a relatively simple test to do, however, the more you pay attention to the details the more accurate your data....and the closer you can get to what you want. Second, check out the CCS Data Log and see where your numbers fall vis
Forum: rodboard

The cracking happens mostly on the first few guides with the larger and thicker feet, I have found. The runners (single foot) don't seem to crack so much. I have carefully sanded and re-applied thread epoxy to repair cracks before. Looks new when finished. Will crack again after time and use has passed, of course, but it is all good for quite awhile. There's a solution, just not a permanent
Forum: rodboard

David - Thanks for the encouragement, bait and rig suggestions. It is a stout little rod - and I was fortunate that the salvageable section was long enough to maintain a decent taper out to the tip. The Mojo Bass line is made with SC3 carbon - so the quality is very good. With a minimal CF split grip and KR Concept guides, the rig is quite light.
Forum: rodboard

Any new info coming in with CCS? I'm not sure this belongs in the Log or not, however it was a fun project that yielded a nice rod: I salvaged the front 5'10" of a St. Croix Mojo Bass rod (original rod specs were: Model MJS71MHF, spinning, 7'1", MH power, Fast action, 8-14 line) I extended the salvaged piece to 6ft. and gave it a CCS test. IP = 243 Pennies or 607.5 grams AA
Forum: rodboard

I ran the CCS numbers for my salvage rod: IP = 243 pennies or 607.5 grams AA = 73 The AA was higher than I expected. However, I am not too surprised as the tip section was in tact and was not shortened. Makes sense the AA would not change much if any. IP was a tad lower than I thought, though it does fall in the range of some of my other rods close to the same power. The guide train
Forum: rodboard

My assumption was that the grip and seat were already set and dried, so no additional push-out was going to happen. The gap was fixed and permanent, right? I'm still confident in my idea, but Rod Bond paste epoxy would be even better than Tight Bond III glue. Any excess 'paste' can be wiped flush with the adjoining parts whether cork or CF. Might need a little alcohol on a paper towel to wipe
Forum: rodboard

Patrick - You will be fine using these shorter pieces of cork. If you run the smaller taper at one end, you can always add a little dry wall tape under the larger end that will abut the reel seat. I've also done what Lynn suggests and ream from both ends.
Forum: rodboard

Here's one more idea: Mix Tight Bond 3 Glue with Cork Dust into a paste. (Or you could use any other 'coloring' material or pigment - not oil based) Press into the gap with a damp finger. Let dry for 20 minutes. Wipe off excess with a damp paper towel.
Forum: rodboard

I hear you - the PB blanks have a non-tapered butt section. Lynn's suggestion of the reverse pilot bit is a good one - as it will make a non-tapered hole. If the pilot hole is a bit larger than the blank, fiberglass drywall tape can take up the slack. I like the paste epoxies (like Rod Bond) for this reason because they fill spaces/gaps without flowing out. Otherwise, my question would be..
Forum: rodboard

David, Kendall, and Norm, I kick myself for not preserving the rod label for this piece. I literally thought, "You know, I should write down this label info because I might want to know what it is later".....and then I didn't. I could look up the blank to find the info as this is a common, off-the-rack model. Might already be in the CCS data bank? Will look there, too. I plan to d
Forum: rodboard

I just finished making a 'new' rod out of a a St. Croix Mojo Bass factory rod that was broken off about an inch above the handle. The part I could salvage was 5'10" long; the power is medium heavy. My Steps: a.) Decided on a Spinning Rod over a Casting Rod (and to use only components I had on hand). b.) Removed factory guides and extra epoxy with a razor blade. Carefully. c.) Scraped
Forum: rodboard

Thank you for sharing your point of view, Ernie! Your questions and challenges have helped me think more carefully about the things I believe to be true and advantageous about the KR Concept. I believe I have been very clear about what I think is, "exactly what it is about the system that reigns superior to other systems"...and listed them in detail. I'm not trying to change your min
Forum: rodboard

Ernie - What is special about the KR Concept? The Basic Elements of the KR Concept as I understand it: * High Frame Height. * Smaller Ring Size. * Guide Groups (ie, 20-10-5.5) designed to work together as a group. * "K" means the rings are sloped forward (for 'tangle-free' casting - hehe) * "R" means Rapid Choke (I think) The KR Concept was created by Fuji in respon
Forum: rodboard

David - You bring up some great questions that I do not have answers for. But your question(s) are valuable and thought-provoking.. I am thinking about these factors with guide height, ring size, and casting performance in mind: 1.) Casting Reels, and the Spool Guide, play a role in the initial Choke of the Line from the Get-Go. * Spinning Reels rely on a Reduction Train to tame an
Forum: rodboard

Take care of your rods. And they will take care of you. I don't have any magic cures or fixes other than....take care of your stuff: Rods, reels, lures, boat and motor, cars, house paint, roofing, insurance, and all other aspects of living with thoughtfulness and care. I'm not being an ass here....or not much or one, anyway....but please allow me to respectfully ask a question: "
Forum: rodboard

I took a deep dive recently into the KR Concept - and what Michael and Tom have shared is what I found to be true also. If you have a Reduction Train dialed in for a given reel, roll with it! Very short rods, or rods that bend deep into the butt section, may require some changes. If you ever try another reel type or size (larger or smaller, shorter or taller), you might have to tweak your
Forum: rodboard

I concur with Michael Danek and his insightful comment: Paraphrased: "Rational and well-considered decisions, backed by data, won't lead you astray in building a very functional rod, line, and reel system for your fishing situation." Correct me if I misunderstood you, Mick.. Mick In Bullet Points: Rational....based on data, and not anecdotes nor emotions. Well-Considered D
Forum: rodboard

That answers many questions for me, Norm. Then, according to Fuji, the RV6 is at the optimum height and ring size for the butt guide for a KR Concept casting rod as far as Fuji sees it ....Others will have, and are welcome to, their opinions and experiences. The RV6 is a guide especially designed, engineered, and tested for this purpose. Therefore, the KW10 was chosen for the butt guide, in
Forum: rodboard

Gless - I know what you mean about there appearing to be 'too many guides.' The issue with being 'on top' in conventional casting rigs using low-frame micro guides is that it takes more guides to hold the line above the blank between points when the rod flexes. Taller guides would allow for more spacing between each guide - but then add a greater torque factor with the longer lever length of
Forum: rodboard

Norm and Others - What's your process for choosing a butt guide for a casting rod? It makes sense that Guide Height is important to spool-guide height for a smooth and direct line flow to the rod and the running guides. Fuji's KR Concept videos show this clearly. There's also the fact if you hold your rod by a foregrip, a taller butt guide leaves room for your hand to fit under it. Outs
Forum: rodboard

David - Your comments about how you choose your lines and for what purposes is excellent and covered my questions. Thank you! I learned from you and am going to build some #10 max braid only rods for the techniques you mentioned. I love to throw tubes for smallies. I need to give fluoro lines another shot because the first ones I used a few years back were quite stiff and springy-coily. I know
Forum: rodboard

Thanks, David! I feel like you gave me a hundred dollar bill when I asked for a fiver. What I gleaned: a. In the past, you only considered line size and type with Spinning Rods (Tatsu Fluoro mainline, MAX #10...maybe a lower test, but never higher). So your spinning rods were built/designed with this line type and size in mind. * Seems like you have this really dialed in because yo
Forum: rodboard

Glenn, Try a Search through the archives (button at top of page) for Simple Spiral.There are other types of Spiral Wraps (like the Robert's, O'Quinn, and even a Forhan, I think) but I like the Simple the best. There is a very good article in Rod Maker Magazine on the Simple Spiral. Very basically, it goes something like this (0-axis is straight up, and 180-axis is straight down): Tempora
Forum: rodboard

Glen, My take is to go one of two ways: 1.) Spiral Wrap (which is an excellent and stable design especially for larger rigs, baits, and fish). It will put the line below the blank where it wants to go anyway. You will need fewer running guides. 2.) With a very soft and bendy tip on a conventional set up, the guides near the tip are going to have to be close together to keep the line abov
Forum: rodboard

I thought about this some more after reading all of your additional posts. My initial reasoning for leaving the non-progressive spacing in place for my HS760 was because I was unaware of any glitch factor in the KR GPS software at the time. I thought it was just the correct spacing for the specs I entered into the calculator. I thought, "Well, Fuji knows more than me, so I'll go with what
Forum: rodboard

Thank you for the run-down, Lance! I can tell you value the KR Concept! Do you like KR for both spin and casting set ups? I like your suggestion on using a half-size larger tip top to help smooth out that braid-to-leader transition. I don't usually do that, but I have always thought about trying it.
Forum: rodboard

1.) If your buddy says he is breaking rods on the hook set....listen to him. Manage your warranty - if you offer one at all. 2.) Keep the reel seat basic (Fuji TCSM size 18 plus foam arbor). 3.) Keep guide train basic (the CRB's from Mudhole are a good value: CRB Double Foot Spin/Cast Guide - Model DF for butt guide (#10) and (#6 reduction); CRB spin/cast running guides - model RNG size #5,
Forum: rodboard

Michael and Norm, Thank you so much for your links to information and your personal testing results! I sincerely appreciate sharing your experiences with me. I really like the diagrams Michael shares - it makes things easier to grasp for me! Norm hits it over the wall in centerfield no matter the pitch. Glitches in KR Calculator I noticed in a particular build: On an NFC HS760-1 (Mag Me
Forum: rodboard

David, I appreciate and value your observations about line size and type having an effect on the presentation of a specific bait in a specific situation! This is an area in my own fishing that I want to improve! Excellent example you shared! I want to be more conscious of, and intentional in, the rod, reel, and line systems I choose and how they work together. What I know about line: Br
Forum: rodboard