Thank you Mike, Chris, and Michael! Chris - Excellent tip on testing with a heavier braided line! Makes complete sense! I'm gonna ramble here for a minute because it helps me solidify my learning - not to share what you already know...which is more than me! The KR Concept (KRC) makes more sense the more I look at it, just like CCS and TNF. As Chris suggested, I looked back in the archive
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I've been on a Learn More about the KR Concept kick for a couple weeks now. My first time reading and learning through the material a few years ago, I realized the many advantages and flexibilities KR provides. And just like with CCS, I knew there was even more to learn with a deeper study. One idea that stood out from the rest was Rapid Choke. The KR Concept advocates for a Rapid Choke, o
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Thank you, chris! I especially took note of your experience with the "gradual diminishing size" of guide rings with lighter braids. Makes sense to get a supple line choked down ASAP and flowing down the rod in a straight line. Saves weight on the blank, too. Funny how sometimes those old "intuitive" ideas like Cone of Flight can appear differently in the light of new infor
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chris, A few follow-up questions to get your approach and philosophy clear in my mind: 1.) Do you use the KR Reduction Train Guide Groups idea once you have determined your line type and size? (ie. for #10-#15 braid it would be a KL20-H; KL10-H, KL6L or 7L for a conventional, non-micro, rod.) 2.) If so, do you ever use the 4 guide reduction train suggestions for your longer rods? 3.) How
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Thank you, Norm! I value you and your experience and research a great deal! Chris - I agree with you about line size as a big determining factor in a guide train layout! You say it is the #1 factor! Now you got me into the weeds. Your experience makes sense to me in light of your important caveat: IF the line is supple braid and is 20 pounds and under. This is an informative and thou
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Francis - As far as how the NGC is different from the 'newer' KR Concept? As I understand it, the KR Concept is a sub set of NGC ideas. Both work and are useful. Both are an improvement on Cone of Flight ideas in most cases. I see KR as a refinement, or addition, to the overall NGC concepts in response to two innovations that took hold several years ago: Micro Guides and Braided
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Thank you, Michael! I found the site! There is a wealth of information in that search zone of, "Fuji KR Concept." Fuji's diagrams and descriptions, on the same page, are very helpful for a visual learner like me. IMO, this is another aspect of the genius of Fuji to produce such simple yet detailed educational materials for understanding their concepts. Understanding the Concepts
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Michael, Thanks for the diagrams for all of us that supplement our learning with pictures! What is the URL or link to that diagram? Les
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Kevin, I have read on the board that several builders use a chop or miter saw and a fine-toothed blade (finish blade). I use a Zona Universal Razor Saw, 42 tpi. This is a hand tool, not powered. (I used this tool before I learned about the above power saw technique. It is a super handy tool to have in any case.) If possible, I have also squared up an end on the lathe using a fine tooth
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Norman has your back here, Al. SiC rings would work great, IMO! Today's ceramic ring materials are more than a match for today's mono, fluoro, or braided lines. Even some of the PVD coated stainless steel rings these days can hang in there pretty well. Sometimes price or availability are a factor in choosing a ring material. I use Fuji Alconite most of the time, but have also used SiC. No
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I usually go with a guide train like this on a casting rig for ML to H bass rods of 7 to 7'6" length: (1) RV6 butt guide, sic. (I don't mind it being the only silver guide when all the others are black....looks spiffy to me.) (2-3) KB runners, #4.5 or #5 ring alconite. (I drop down to 4.5's for use with straight mono, fluoro, or all braid. I prefer the 5's for passing leader knots.) (6-
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Thank you, Norm, for the Amazon link as well as the confirmation about your boring/coring technique with brass tubes. IMO, The grip and reel seat are just a part of the Total Rod System for the kind of fishing anyone does. How much does perfection matter? It is ultimately up to you. My Grandma Scott brought a paper wasp nest of wasp grubs to her fishing holes, wrapped in a cotton r
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I really like Norm's idea (if I understand it correctly): Use a fine round file to campher the edges of a brass tube that is slightly larger than the blank diameter. The goal is for the tube to fit between the grip and blank, and cut through the softer arbor material. Butt cap removed first. Push and twist the tube the length of the grip and core it out. I used to be able to find thin-wall,
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Dean - No, I have not had that happen....especially if the epoxy went on bubble-free. Spitball: Maybe the CF material was not wetted out completely when it was made and had more air-spaces within the fibers? I've not experienced the sudden appearance of bubbles on a CF grip. At any rate, as you mentioned, it is relatively easy to sand down. Something changed from your previously successful
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NFC SJ605 (IM): AA = 71 IP = 550 ERN 19.25
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Norm and Michael - I edited my original post to reflect your input. Thank you! Mick - My writing may not have communicated it as well as you did: A small amount of additional weight affects a light-power blank (fly blank) more than a heavier-powered blank. As the rod loads deeper into a heavier-power blank, it requires more weight to deflect the blank an equivalent amount. This makes sense.
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A couple things David and Mick said got me thinking about deriving and interpreting CCS numbers with confidence and accuracy. There are variances in the data. Why? One reason that came to mind is that there may be inconsistencies in the way CCS data is collected. I am reminding myself: 1.) Follow a Consistent Testing Protocol (as Dr. Hanneman outlines in his articles). Like all of life, it
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David, You da man, too, for sharing this. Your story is exactly why CCS is so useful. I like details about the thought process that goes into the selection process - I guess I like good stories. Besides, it is a nice bump of the topic back to the top. Spring is here! Lots of rods being built! Hey all, please keep those CCS numbers coming in on your builds!
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Just to get some more specific info from you for the surf gurus to work with: I take it that "handle" means reel seat? When I think handle, I think of Grips. What type of grips are you (or your brother) thinking: EVA, Cork, Carbon Fiber, or other? Split Grip or Full Length?
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David - Ever use the scotch tape decal application method? There is also a good thread about the 'best' pens for writing on blanks somewhere in the search engine.
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Kevin - You made me remember when I was new to rod-building. To your specific questions: 1.) When I was new to the craft, I got my money's worth from the learning bank (forum) and did all tests you listed - sounds like a good way to go about placing guides starting with the KR GPS calculator. A very good sequence that won't let you down. Tweak as needed along the way. 2.) David and Mark
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Tony, Norman Miller has your back.
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The word Tolerance comes into play for guide spacing for me. As others have mentioned, I define my tolerances and optimal spacing ideas through the two-line static test. At this time, the two-line static test makes the most sense to me. Good Looks, Charts, and Mimicry: I think of Guide Spacing Charts as a good-faith effort by blank manufacturers to stream-line the building process to keep r
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Michael - You will like the APFG 745, IMO. I liked mine so much I bought another one. (I also bought the 744 (IP = 447.5; AA = 78) as a 'step down' for smaller size crankbaits and I like it a bunch, too.) As you mentioned, this blank has a very soft and fast tip, and that's why I keep those first few guides from the tip at 9 cm. I went back and looked at my NFC SJ736 and counted 11 guid
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Andy Dear is his name, maker of Thread Master epoxies and Gen 4. Probably makes some other stuff, too. (Oh yeah, he also had some lathe mandrels he sold years ago.) He had a very informative video (You Tube?) on making a custom, wooden fly reel seat insert and grip.
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I can only confirm your experience with ProKote that it does take longer to cure than any other finish I've used. Not familiar with Flex Coat, but I would imagine Gen 4 is similar in cure time. I've used Thread Master Light a bunch, and LS Supreme (U40)...and Gen 4 seems to cure out in the same ball park of time. So, I have once again succinctly answered the question you did not ask! Ha! Hope
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Rusty Customer Service is always an aspect of the "quality" of a product. I agree with you! On the good side the quality of NFC products are very good to excellent even if their response times are something to be desired. It's not just Your luck. Many have been in your shoes with NFC getting back to them in a "timely" manner. Just slow, not pretentious. We are buying their
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I love that chart, Michael! My only modification (for myself) is to replace the two KW guides with a single RV6 guide. So, my guide train would look something like this: (1) RV-6 butt guide - place approximately 20-inches +/- from face of casting reel for a starting point. (3) KB belly guides - progressively spaced as per your static test. (You would be fine with only 2 KB's) (8) KT ru
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SM is a designation of the modulus level in NFC blanks. Lowest to highest in my understanding: Delta, SM, IM, HM, X-Ray and now C6O2. Though labeled an HMG by Fenwick, the equivalent to NFC would be SM more than likely (good for back in the day, but by today's standards and materials, rather low in modulus rating. Modulus ratings do not equal inferior ratings, just the stiffness to weight ratio.)
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Guides for size 2500 to 3000 spinning reel: I prefer the Fuji KR Concept system and set up. There is a very useful guide size and placement calculator at the Angler's Resource (Angler's Rsc - Fuji) link in the left margin. Enter the numbers requested in the boxes and it will calculate what you need for a very good starting point. There is also an informative collection of articles on this site
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