I just finished making a 'new' rod out of a a St. Croix Mojo Bass factory rod that was broken off about an inch above the handle. The part I could salvage was 5'10" long; the power is medium heavy.

My Steps:

a.) Decided on a Spinning Rod over a Casting Rod (and to use only components I had on hand).
b.) Removed factory guides and extra epoxy with a razor blade. Carefully.
c.) Scraped off 99% of the paint with a razor blade held perpendicular to the blank. (This did not cut into the blank or remove much if any carbon material.)
d.) Buffed and cleaned up the rest of the paint and blemishes left from guide "footprints" with 600 grit sandpaper. (This did remove a tiny amount of carbon.)
e.) Extended the butt section to make the blank length an even 6-foot in length.
* I salvaged a piece of carbon rod blank from another broken rod to make a 2-inch extension: Two-inches extending the blank, Three-inches inside the blank glued up with Rod Bond.
* I considered extending this blank to 6'6" or even 7-foot, however, I wanted to limit this build to parts I had on hand. In general, I prefer over-sleeves for extensions if they are over 2-3-inches.
f.) Measured out and modified some CF split-grip pieces I had on hand - then, glued up with reel seat, and let cure overnight.
g.) Mounted reel (Stradic 2500) and took measurements to input into KR GPS calculator. My choices were for a 'Micro' build using 20-30 braided line because it yielded a progressive Reduction Train I liked.
* Results were to use a Reduction Train of KL-H20; KL-H10; and KL-M5.5. (This is an RT Group that will handle the minimum or maximum line size I will use with this rod.)
h.) Measured out guide placement based on KR Calculator. Tweaked. Used the three GT Group, a KB Choker, and five more KT's (I confess I did not two-line static test this time; the guide train looked very smooth with an in-hand flex.)
* I realize this is more guides than others might use...and more than the Calculator recommends. I did not see any harm in adding a couple more than the standard "rod length + one guide" formula.

Now, I am planning on re-working another St. Croix spinning rod. This rod is not broken nor damaged...however, it has a guide train in need of improvement. It's not a 'new' rod, but I will feel that way about it with a re-work.

Anyone else make a new rod from one you already have?

Les, sounds like you built yourself a nice little rod there. Definitely a great way to put a dust collector back in business. Just curious? What was the power rating of the rod you built this rod from? I used to have a Shimano 2553 Speed Master spinning rod that was 5'6" long that was a pretty stout little rod, considering. I loved that rod.

In fact I loved it so much, shortened one of the first 2 spinning rods I built, just to try and recapture that old rods feel. It didn't work out too well though. I took 6" off the butt of the rod which made the rod 6' long, but I made the rear grip the same length as the 5'6" rod had. It was just too much out of balance. Had I taken any more off the rod, I would have had to remove the reel seat, and I just didn't want to get that involved. I actually ended up doing what you did and extended it back to 6'6" long using a section of a broken blank I had.

As far as actually building a new rod out of an old one. I did that with an old 6'6" Shimano Scabbard spinning rod I had. I stripped it down to the bare blank and removed the paint using Citristrip. Then I rebuilt it pretty much as it was prior, except I used a KR concept guide train using Pac Bay Minima match guides. I didn't and still don't really know enough about spinning rod guide trains to say for certain, but I believe it was a COF guide train. All of the guides were different heights. The guide train I took off the rod weighed 11 grams. The guide train I put back on it weighed 4 grams. I actually did the rebuild to give the rod to a friend as a surprise. I normally wouldn't fish a rod I built for someone prior to giving it to them, but I just had to fish this one. WORLD of difference in rod performance.

And not really qualifying as building a new rod, I changed the guides on a Shimano Convergence crankbait rod I have. I left the first 3 reduction guides on it, and only changed out the running guides. It had #6 Fuji double foot LN guides as the running guides, and I changed those out for #5 Fuji single foot L guides. While I don't know how much casting distance I actually gained with the new running guides, the casting characteristics of the rod changed dramatically. It fishes like an entirely different rod.

I also add a couple of more running guides than the KR recommends. The Rainshadow build recipes calls for several more. I like the line path and look of the happy medium you wrote about.

I admire your rebuild exercise, but would probably never do something similar. The Mojo is a St. Croix SCII blank made in Fresnillo, Mexico at the Rod Geeks plant. Rod Geeks sells this blank, unpainted or in your choice of a few colors, for $49.00. They also sell the slightly reinforced Bass2 version of the same blank for $59.00. When a rod breaks near the grip, there could be internal damage running up the blank. Some fiber and resin zones compressed while others stretched. A clean break itself is a very sudden release of energy.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/05/2023 08:02PM by Kendall Cikanek.

I’ve repaired numerous rods by using blank pieces from other broken rods. I’ve also stripped down and refurbished a bunch of other rods with modern components. I enjoy doing this because it is alway something different and challenging which involves a lot problem solving. I have a large stash of broken rods that I use for repairs. Nothing get thrown away.
Norm

David, Kendall, and Norm,

I kick myself for not preserving the rod label for this piece. I literally thought, "You know, I should write down this label info because I might want to know what it is later".....and then I didn't. I could look up the blank to find the info as this is a common, off-the-rack model. Might already be in the CCS data bank? Will look there, too.

I plan to do a CCS test on this re-build....just not sure what the numbers would demonstrate to the community because it is a salvage situation. I will do a test anyway and show you the numbers. If nothing else, it is interesting to me how blank dynamics change with modifications. Off the top of my head, the action of this re-build will probably be in the moderate fast action range and on the MH+ side of the power rating (ERN). That's how it looks and 'feels' Will see!

David - I have a few old-builds that I am wanting to re-guide. I can see my historical progression in both my rod-building knowledge and the advent of new technologies in my 'back in the day' rods. The rod I have next on my list for a re-build is an SC4 Medium power 7-foot spinning rod. I built that rod with a Fuji BYAG guide train based on the NGC; which was the bee's-knees at the time. Now, I understand things a bit differently. (The existing BYAG 16 guide on this rod reduces weight, but is too low to the blank...a KL-16H, or perhaps better, a KL-H20 guide train will suit this blank to its potential in my thinking today.) That's not to say this rod doesn't fish well...it is more about my sense of confidence and "this is the best I can do" factor for me. As you have stated in other posts, this rod would be great with bottom-contact baits and #10 fluorocarbon line. KR Concept Guide Train to match those specs.

As Kendall and Norm said, there is something different and challenging about a re-build and re-purpose project. I added a thread wrap at the butt end to minimize any cracks that may be running up the blank, similar to how the end of a ferrule is wrapped to prevent splitting. Also, the internal extension-sleeve runs three-inches into the blank and is fixed for the full length with Rod Bond; and the CF butt grip overlaps the butt by a quarter inch. Decorative wraps, between the split grips, also inhibit any cracks that may be running up the length of the blank. Not 100% fool-proof, but my best efforts at problem-solving.

If this rod creaks, groans, or breaks with actual use, I'll save the guides and blank for parts. Like Norm said, "Waste not, want not."

I appreciate what Kendall noted that a completely new build, with a new blank, can be the best way to go. It makes complete sense to invest in the blank and components I trust to get the performance I want and need! Confidence in my gear is an under appreciated aspect of fishing success in my experience. Make-do if I Have-to.....otherwise, get as close to what I want as I can. I'll feel better about it and I will fish with more fun and excitement.

Bottom line, if I am not happy with a rod, I won't fish it. Might as well grow tomatoes with it! I'll see if this re-build-salvage rod fits the roll I have in mind for it as a dock-shooter and/or close combat rod. If it doesn't work the way I want,
I'll salvage the parts again. It was a fun exercise in problem-solving, and I think I have a rod that fits a unique place in my fishing.

"I plan to do a CCS test on this re-build....just not sure what the numbers would demonstrate to the community because it is a salvage situation. "

I think it would be interesting to see the numbers. CCS numbers accurately indicate the most important characteristics, action and power. If I were to do a salvage/build like this CCS would be my first step.

I ran the CCS numbers for my salvage rod:

IP = 243 pennies or 607.5 grams
AA = 73

The AA was higher than I expected. However, I am not too surprised as the tip section was in tact and was not shortened. Makes sense the AA would not change much if any.
IP was a tad lower than I thought, though it does fall in the range of some of my other rods close to the same power.

The guide train came out great, and it has such a nice bend profile with all those guides on there.

Now, on to the other St. Croix rod!

Les, with an IP of 607 and a length of 6', that's a stout little spinning rod. I bet it would a sweet little rod for chasing smallmouth. Baby Brush Hog in green pumpkin on a 3/0 Owner Wide Gap Plus hook, with a 3/16 oz tungsten worm sinker. Or .....a black 4" curl tail Power Worm. Same sinker but a 1/0 straight shank Owner worm hook.

Fish on !!

David - Thanks for the encouragement, bait and rig suggestions. It is a stout little rod - and I was fortunate that the salvageable section was long enough to maintain a decent taper out to the tip.

The Mojo Bass line is made with SC3 carbon - so the quality is very good. With a minimal CF split grip and KR Concept guides, the rig is quite light.

I repaired a Mojo rod for my nephew. It was broken cleanly about 1/2" from the fore grip winding check. I drilled out the butt cap and slid an appropriate diameter and taper old blank section through the handle. 6" inside the handle and 6" protruding. Glued the top section over the protruding splint. Came out really nice after refinishing the whole rod. I used a section of 30.30 casing for the butt plug. Nephew was elated and uses it for reds, specks, and bass.

Mark, great story. Salvaging a special rod is itself very special. Neat that we have the knowledge and skills to do that.

David, please email me, I have a question you might be able to help with . thanks, Mick