Joe Vanfossen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Joel, as long as you are keeping the weight at the > extreme butt of the rod, you are doing it right. > If you can get by with a single weight inside the > blank, then that is perfect. If not, then you > need to start thinking about the weight inside > plus lead tape around the outside of the
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I'm not certain if it's good or bad to do this, but recently I've used tungsten worm weights 1/2oz to 1oz wrapped in masking tape to match the ID of the rod blank. I encapsulate the weight in generation 4 epoxy as I slide it into the blank. The weight remains in the last inch of the rod blank and the epoxy prevents its from moving or coming loose. I just balanced a longer punch rod and thus far w
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Joel, > With respect to mixing. > > When I first started building I had a couple > instances of a tacky finish. When I went back to > the rod building school, my tutor asked how long I > was mixing the finish. I told him, "until the > finish has a uniform color." He repli
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John Cates Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sorry you are having trouble. > > A tacky finish is indicative of improper or > insufficient mixing. This sounds like your finish > is under mixed. Basically, mix it longer and more > thoroughly. Scrape the walls of the cup and > bottom but avoid introducing bubbles. The finish > will
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Thanks Tom. I'm not sure how I messed up the measurement. Momentarily distracted I guess.
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First time for everything... Coated a rod yesterday morning and just pulled it down only to find it's still tacky long after it should be. This was my finish coat. What are my next steps? Just re-coat?
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Hopefully this worked...
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If you look at Kistler rods website, you can see how they do it. I do something very similar with eva foam that makes palming a bait caster much more comfortable while hiding the threads. If I figure out how to upload pictures I'll share with you.
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Those expride's are really nice rods for the money. I have a few first generation rods and they've been great. The spiral x blank wrapping really makes a difference (imo). That technology made its way into the Conquest line-up. I am not familiar with any blanks available to builders with the same spiral x type reinforcement. They have some interesting power/action that makes them very versatile s
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Checking to see if anyone has experience with this blank. I have built on the HMF which has a lure rating of 1/2 - 2oz. The XHF (same length) lure rating jumps up to 3-8oz, however the tip size is the same as the HMF and the butt diameter is only .620 in (.056" more than the HMF). To me it seems like this blank is no where near the 8 oz rating and should cap out around 3oz. I am consider
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Eric Loos Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When you say that the NFC blanks are more > sensitive, are you referring specifically to the > X-Ray line, or are the other blanks also more > sensitive? Had I not founds Rodgeeks I likely > would be planning to build w/ a NFC blank, but > their site was a bit confusing. Personally I feel the NF
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Eric Loos Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Joel Babin Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > The rodgeeks 7' MH/M (glass/composite) was my > > second build, and actually the first blank I > > purchased. It's great for slinging crankbaits > up > > to 5xd, however I don't feel it has the po
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The rodgeeks 7' MH/M (glass/composite) was my second build, and actually the first blank I purchased. It's great for slinging crankbaits up to 5xd, however I don't feel it has the power for chatterbaits. I actually built on the 7-9 H/M (glass/composite) trimmed down to 7-3 and feel it makes a better deeper crankbait blank than chatterbaits (what I originally intended it to be). The H/M has a very
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Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The MB663 is in your range for what you want to do > but maybe a little week for a 4.5" 1/2 oz lure. > The HM version should be a little lighter than the > IM and a bit more crisp (faster recovery). You > could also try a MB-704 and cut it down from the > butt 4" to net 6'8"
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Anyone have experience with the MB663? Was thinking of grabbing two of them to make jerkbait rods. I recently ordered the 664 and it's way too powerful. Looking to build the rod for throwing the standard 110 sized jerkbaits in 1/2oz size. Open to other blank recommendations as well.
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Theron or Ancelmo, would either of you feel the SWB710/12-25 would make for a good punching rod blank. Specifically for 1.5-2 oz (weight/lure) total weight punching heavy hydrilla mats? Trying to understand the versatility of this blank outside of swimbaits considering the power and parabolic nature.
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Without doing any digging, hard to recommend a specific blank... but think of a glide bait like a huge crankbait. Most glide bait guys want a parabolic rod that will load deep and keep fish buttoned up during the fight. I've seen recommendations in that weight range for NFC's SWB 807 or 808 (although I would lean 807) as well as the NFC bounce back blanks. Most of the feedback I've seen on the NF
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That Ravens theme looks sharp. Very nice
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It takes a little digging around, but those who have used Thrasher have been pleased. I don't think Jason is looking to conquer the blank industry, but rather focus on quality and maintain USA production.
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Has anyone built on the Magic Wands or Steadfast Thrasher blanks? Was considering ordering a BSC7807 for a punch rod. Looks like their overall rod NDA is offshore, however they may have consulted with Rich Forhan on some builds using the magic wants (composite blanks). Also found this quote interesting "Our ties to Brad Loomis & Shikari puts a little DNA of the past in everyone of ou
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Would the CPB761HM make a good chatterbait rod??
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