Hello All,

After a fair amount of research I think I'm ready for my first build, and I wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts/could let me know if I'm missing anything.
Blank:Rodgeeks 7' S-Glass MH/M
Guides: Fuji KW-KB-KB (I'm still a bit lost when it comes to the Tip Top?) I plan to use CC Silver Alconite and follow Rodgeeks' size, & spacing info
Reel Seat: Fuji PULS
Grips: CRB Fore and Rear Cork w/ the corresponding Butt cap

I'll be using a Poly Reel seat Arbor, and I'll likely begin with 2 KW guides. What's everyone's favorite hook keeper? If i built today I'd likely use the Fuji but i really don't have a preference there.

Outside of thread/Epoxy, can you spot anything that I'm missing? I'll be using this for lipless cranks and Bladed jigs/spinners with a Curado 200

Thanks
-E

E,

That sounds like a solid first build. Here are a few inputs that are merely suggestions. I don't feel they complicate the process too much but also aren't "needed" for a quality build.

Guide spacing: The guide spacing charts aren't a bad thing. I followed them on my Mudhole starter blank. But once I studied the static load guide placement I never looked back. It is simple to do without special equipment as well. It adds maybe 15 minutes to the process and IMO is very worth it. Simply tape the guides at the suggested spacing, mount the tip top, and then mount your reel and run a line through. You can load it by tying weight on or simply pulling on the line. Then just observe if the line touches the blank and has a smooth arch to it.

Tip top: Just use the same ring diameter as your running guides and the blank should have a tip dimension for the tube size. Make sure you have tip top glue to install it. Chop slivers of the glue and place them in the tip top tube. Heat with a lighter or alcohol burner and place onto the tip of the blank. If repositioning is needed simply reheat and adjust.

Hook keeper: Totally personal preference. I don't even use them. My casting reel is my hook keeper.

Eric, Sounds like you have a good foundation to build upon. Aaron is right on the hookkeeper, it is a personal thing. I would opt for one on the premise it is better to have it and not need it rather need it and not have it. As far as guides go... I would order one extra running guide. It has been my experience that once you put the guides on the rod in the suggested spacing and then perform a static test under a load, I find I often add an additional guide and adjust the spacing of increasing increments. This requires a bit more work but I feel it is worth it. The tip top should be the same or similar size as your last running guide. However, if you are a person prone to reeling the line in too far, to the point of having the swivel stop you from reeling in further. You might want to consider putting in tip top slightly bigger so the swivel will rattle through other than stop at the tip top. I only say this because my adult son kept breaking tips off his rods. So I finally put bigger tip tops on his rods and this cured the problem. Post a picture on the site so we can all see how it turned out.

I'll definitely attempt a static load test. I've just briefly read about it on Angler's Resource and it seems pretty essential. How do you track the bend prior to guide installation to compare it later?

My main question regarding the Tip Top guide is actually fairly Fuji specific. The top of the line tips for the K series(next build....) are easy enough to find, but I can't seem to figure out which tip I should be using for the CC Alconite K series guides. Rodgeeks recommends dropping to a size 6 guide which I'll probably follow. I typically fish with a Flouro leader to braid using the FG knot. I'm assuming this is a good size for that.

Thanks again!

Go through the Library on this site, and read many of the articles that you will recognize as appropriate to the rodbuilding craft. This will ensure you won't be making some of the mistakes that most of us made.

The rodgeeks 7' MH/M (glass/composite) was my second build, and actually the first blank I purchased. It's great for slinging crankbaits up to 5xd, however I don't feel it has the power for chatterbaits. I actually built on the 7-9 H/M (glass/composite) trimmed down to 7-3 and feel it makes a better deeper crankbait blank than chatterbaits (what I originally intended it to be). The H/M has a very deep flex all the way to the reel seat. I can grab my guide spacing dimensions off the MH/M if you'd like to compare or get you close for your build.

I recommend taking your time. I practiced wrapping guides for days, and even put some guide coat down on thread wraps done on a broken rod just to get the feel for it before starting my first build. Still learned a ton over the first few builds, but practicing on broken rod pieces is a great way to get the feel for it and not feel pressured thinking your messing up your build.

You can pass a braid to fluoro leader through a size 5 guide.

Duplicate entry...oops.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/14/2021 11:48PM by Mark Hahn.

Eric,
Using the search function, find, understand and utilize the Two Line Static Load Test procedure for guide placement and never look back. It is all you need to know. All charts are ballpark guestiments at best and only offer generic suggestions for generic rods purchased through generic suppliers for sale to the generic public; however, we (and you as well), build custom rods which are far superior.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

To expand on Mark's recommendation, it is easy to assume that a two line process will be more complicated than a one line process. But not only is the two line process more accurate, it is easier to do because the guides are not loaded by the line that stresses the blank. Therefore they don't have to be as solidly attached and can be moved while the blank is loaded.

Joel Babin Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The rodgeeks 7' MH/M (glass/composite) was my
> second build, and actually the first blank I
> purchased. It's great for slinging crankbaits up
> to 5xd, however I don't feel it has the power for
> chatterbaits. I actually built on the 7-9 H/M
> (glass/composite) trimmed down to 7-3 and feel it
> makes a better deeper crankbait blank than
> chatterbaits (what I originally intended it to
> be). The H/M has a very deep flex all the way to
> the reel seat. I can grab my guide spacing
> dimensions off the MH/M if you'd like to compare
> or get you close for your build.
>
> I recommend taking your time. I practiced wrapping
> guides for days, and even put some guide coat down
> on thread wraps done on a broken rod just to get
> the feel for it before starting my first build.
> Still learned a ton over the first few builds, but
> practicing on broken rod pieces is a great way to
> get the feel for it and not feel pressured
> thinking your messing up your build.
>
> You can pass a braid to fluoro leader through a
> size 5 guide.

Do you have any experience with the bass4 or X-Comp line? I was considering the XC730.

Eric Loos Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Joel Babin Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > The rodgeeks 7' MH/M (glass/composite) was my
> > second build, and actually the first blank I
> > purchased. It's great for slinging crankbaits
> up
> > to 5xd, however I don't feel it has the power
> for
> > chatterbaits. I actually built on the 7-9 H/M
> > (glass/composite) trimmed down to 7-3 and feel
> it
> > makes a better deeper crankbait blank than
> > chatterbaits (what I originally intended it to
> > be). The H/M has a very deep flex all the way
> to
> > the reel seat. I can grab my guide spacing
> > dimensions off the MH/M if you'd like to
> compare
> > or get you close for your build.
> >
> > I recommend taking your time. I practiced
> wrapping
> > guides for days, and even put some guide coat
> down
> > on thread wraps done on a broken rod just to
> get
> > the feel for it before starting my first build.
> > Still learned a ton over the first few builds,
> but
> > practicing on broken rod pieces is a great way
> to
> > get the feel for it and not feel pressured
> > thinking your messing up your build.
> >
> > You can pass a braid to fluoro leader through a
> > size 5 guide.
>
> Do you have any experience with the bass4 or
> X-Comp line? I was considering the XC730.

Unfortunately I don't have any experience with the X-Comp. If the the XC730 has more backbone than the S-Glass H, then it could be a player for chatterbaits. The other blank I have experience with is the Carbon 4 7-11 H/MF. I shortened it and its a nice blank, rather versatile. Throws 5" hollow body swimbaits and chatterbaits well. Would make a decent flip/pitch type blank, although it's not as sensitive as the NFC blanks I'm accustomed to.

When you say that the NFC blanks are more sensitive, are you referring specifically to the X-Ray line, or are the other blanks also more sensitive? Had I not founds Rodgeeks I likely would be planning to build w/ a NFC blank, but their site was a bit confusing. Rodgeeks seemed to have the cost, quality, and ease of understanding I was looking for. Both brands intrigue me because of their affiliation with established high quality pre-made rod manufacturers.

Thanks again for the responses. I know this has gotten a bit off topic, but I really want my first rod to immediately be something I'll keep in my arsenal for years.

It will take a while to develop the dexterity required when wrapping the guides. Don't hesitate to re-wrap any guide that you're not satisfied with. If it was my first build, knowing what I've learned over the mere 50 builds under my belt, I would start with a less expensive blank. I used a Color Series blank from Mudhole that costed about $30. Upon completion, while the rod functions properly, it is my least favorite and will probably not see any more action. While it is possible to build a perfect rod on your first time out, experience and practice, the way Joel recommends, and your chances will be much greater. Your creativity will grow exponentially with each build. Just keep in mind, once you start this process, there is no going back. It is an addiction.

Eric,
It is almost guaranteed you will keep your first build forever. If you were to get a response from all the builders on this site, I think you would find very few who have gotten rid of their first build. I have kept mine if for no other reason than to gage how much I have learned since then. I was very proud of the accomplishment with that first rod at that time but now it looks kinda dumpy. Don’t beat yourself up trying to build the ultimate rod your first time = I doubt any builder thinks his first build is as good as what he builds today = it’s just natural progression and Practice-Makes-Perfect. That being said, practicing on a scrap blank will certainly make your first build seem less dumpy down the road. Just have FUN, keep an open mind, observe and absorb from others on this site and everything will fall in place. Oh, did I mention to have FUN? Keep us posted on your first build. GOOD LUCK!!!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I really like a drop shot hook keeper on a crankbait rod. Easy to slip the clip over when you don't have a bait attached, and easy to put a hook into it if you do.

In fact, IMO drop shot hook keepers are horrible for anything but a crankbait rod. I hate them on the drop shot rods I've built lol

Eric Loos Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> When you say that the NFC blanks are more
> sensitive, are you referring specifically to the
> X-Ray line, or are the other blanks also more
> sensitive? Had I not founds Rodgeeks I likely
> would be planning to build w/ a NFC blank, but
> their site was a bit confusing.

Personally I feel the NFC IM blanks are more sensitive than the Bass4 or Carbon4 from RodGeeks. Choosing a blank from NFC takes some time/research/conversations with NFC to understand the numbering system. Mudhole seems to have adopted the Loomis numbering system and adopted the powers and actions which I'm sure helps them sell blanks. NFC isn't too difficult once you finally understand the power and variances between MB and SJ, but like every company that rolls blanks power and action aren't universal standards. And with enough research, it seems as thought the "classics" they market to have recreated don't align in actuality. MB705 is supposed to be a remake of the legendary MB843, many builders find it 100 grams less powerful in rda tests, putting it closer to the 842. Rodgeeks is essentially St. Croix so if you are familiar with St. Croix, it's an easy transition.

I personally really like the 7' MH/M S-Glass from Rod geeks and think you will enjoy it as well if you're looking for a composite/glass cranking stick. If you want bottom contact, I'd recommend the NFC IM or HM due to the ongoing 75% off sale (provided you buy three blanks). Rainshadow makes some nice blanks as well and I find their power and actions to be similar to St. Croix.

I was like you and stressed a bit about my first build and wanted it to be something I would use long term. I practiced a lot and honestly it is as nice or nicer than most production rods in the $150 range, but at the end of the day I don't actually use it as much as I thought I might and have improved greatly over it within a few short builds. There are just too many things you don't/can't perfect on the first build. A painted blank from Rodgeeks would help you out in terms of how well you finish the rod. Raw carbon blanks show guide coat imperfections much more.

You might find this thread worthy of a quick read... [www.bbcboards.net]

Question after reading up on the dual line status tension test: When performing this test, if the goal is to create a 90 degree triangle from essentially the unflexed tip to the weight, does anyone measure this out? Does it matter?