Ordering tip sizes based on published tip sizes in ones catalog can be hit or miss . Best to carry a wide variety of tip sizes or simply wait to measure each blanks tip top diameter when it comes in to be sure. Ordering the exact listed tube size AND one tube size larger will usually eliminate disappointment .
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Simply wash down the seat and get it clean before removing the reel or use silicone stretchy tape or even electrical tape and wrap the threads including the reel collar so no grime can get into it AFTER you install the reel .
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Make sure the room temp is at least 70 + degrees because for epoxy to level really well it needs to be warm in the room you're applying it in . Whenever I had issues with epoxy not leveling correctly and getting lumpy it was always due to the room I was applying it in not being warm enough . It will get lumpy really fast in a colder room . Even if you warm up the epoxy beforehand like you a
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Yes, less means fewer than "Too many" I thought my post made that clear . " Use enough running guides to fully support the natural flex along the entire blank but that's it , don't add any more than that . It equates to zero benefit "
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The amount of running guides to use should be determined by each individual blanks inherent characteristics never it's overall length . Fuji's software takes none of that into consideration . Some blanks will need more running guides than others and vice versa based on each blanks widely varying stiffness and flex profiles . Don't forget Fuji is a guide manufacturer so it's no surprise they
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Generation 4 takes quite a long time to dry even when room temp is 70 + degrees . Threadmaster is one of the fastest to dry with Threadmaster lite taking considerably longer to dry similar to Generation 4 . Pro Coat is probably the slowest of all to dry. I have no problem with any of the brands they all work extremely well if you follow the directions closely and apply in a temp appropriate r
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I much prefer the smooth over the ridged version also , far far easier and quicker to wrap .
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John , I decided to post my comment after the OP posted the below comment : " As an engineer for decades the Alps seems far more engineered and refined to the Flex Coat which has a DIY look to it" My comment was not to criticize the outstanding 777 wrapper , my comment was trying to make clear that the images of the 777 are mediocre at best and that wrapper is far far more profe
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I have always thought the Flex Coat images of the 777 do not come close to doing it justice , it does look like a slapped together DIY by those images.
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If you know you will be building many rods and not just a few than I think a power wrapper is a great idea it just comes down to what a persons goals are . I wouldn't purchase one if I knew I wasn't going to be in it for the long term or if I just wanted to get my feet wet to see if I liked it.
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I always build knowing exactly where and how a rod will balance by carefully choosing specific components that allow me to achieve a perfectly balanced rod when completed . I'm never caught off guard with a rod that is tip heavy or doesn't balance correctly for the application I intend to use it for . This allows me to avoid adding unnecessary weight .
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One thing to keep in mind with braided line , despite what braided line manufacturers have always indicated, you should choose a braided line based on what you need it to do and NOT based on what a certain braid strengths mono equivalent diameter happens to be . Choosing braided line based on what mono diameter you used to use before switching to braid is really limiting it's ability to grea
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I personally never had to deal with rod performance disappointment , when I was younger I bought rods I could afford at the time and they performed admirably and got the job done but they were far from being able to perform on the level I wanted them to perform at . I couldn't afford the much lighter weight more responsive rods at that time . When I finally did purchase a much more advanced mo
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There is one little problem with Michaels suggestion , Phil doesn't want to buy all the blanks to do the testing, that's what he's trying to avoid. He much prefers you to purchase the blanks for him .
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Zirconium is a superb ring material for use with braids.
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After thinking it over more a high framed KW 30 would work very well and it's a lot cheaper than the RV's . The trick to having the ultimate performing spinning guide reduction train is to figure out what size ring will be large enough to allow the line to flow through unobstructed while also not going too large which causes energy loss on the cast . That can be tricky . You don't want the line
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RV 25H is the choice as Norm said , even with 65 pound braid . Anything larger would be detrimental and wasted energy . If I understand your initial post this will be used on a boat for jigging so casting distance is obviously not a priority , a 7 foot rod length and 65 pound braid would also indicate that . I agree with the RV25H , RV16H but you could even choose the KW12M instead of the KW
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In many images that DC777 wrapper appears to be made completely out of wood which to me was a major turn off but upon much closer inspection the slats which hold the adjustable supports are all aluminum which changes my view of it completely . The images of the DC777 on the Flex Coat website are very deceiving . Unless you watch the video which shows very close up images you can be easily foole
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I don't think Michael was inferring that wraps whether they be wrapped just with thread or thread and epoxy aren't strong enough . I never had any issues with taped on guides for test casting coming off even with considerable loads applied. They do move out of alignment however.
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I could always shift a guide a little bit if wrapped with thread even a very tight thread wrap but that's not the case after epoxy is applied and cured so no argument from me.
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Or they have gotten to a point where they ask themselves why am I wasting so much time on something nobody's ever going to agree on . Trying to substantiate something that cannot accurately be substantiated usually ends up in a thread that goes until the participants die of old age.
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They are available right now Michael . Bob , didn't you buy the below blank ? It's a 11.5 footer in a 2-8 ounce rating . How does it throw 2-3 oz ?
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Just for a little clarification , the majority of braids over the last 20 + years have been 4 strand braids and to a lesser extent 8 strand braids so when Norm mentions 12 and 16 strand braids that's quite a difference and a big part of the added expense . Technology is great if used for the right purpose.
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I think this blank will sell like crazy for people that throw heavy weight for giant drum off the outer banks . I have little doubt about it's performance potential just by reading the specs but the majority of surf fisherman prefer surf blanks that are from 9 to 10'6" in length and lure ratings more along the lines on 1-3 , 2-5 , 1-4 - 3- 6 etc... The outer banks guys throw heavier weig
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For the weight it throws and it's overall length having a blank weight of 9 ounces is very very impressive indeed . Most surf blanks that can throw up to 10 oz are considerably heavier hovering around 16 to 19 ounce blank weights . A 2-10 ounce lure rating is pretty darn remarkable , I would bet 5 to 6 ounce would be close to it's best performance potential . I really hope NFC considers p
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Unfortunately those size 4.5 and 5 runners in titanium torzite cost $8.00 - $10.00 a piece .
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Awesome
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Adding additional weight anywhere along the blank whether it be the butt middle or top will NEVER increase sensitivity BUT it can often make the rod feel more sensitive if it accomplishes making an unbalanced build feel more balanced to that particular person.
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Shimano's Poison Adrena series are very very sensitive and use Shimano's Spiral X tech. How they would compare to Point Blanks or NFC's latest is anyone's guess. I believe all would be very very good sensitivity wise with none being vastly superior to the other.
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