Tom, it is confusing. Looks like to me that both the seats would expose the blank but then why do they talk about a wood filler for the abx780 when it lokks all aluminum. The only thing I can figure is that on the abx780, you would use a wood filler like on the newer loomis flyrods that incorperate a seat like this. On the dbx 780 you do get and exposed blank. I would e-mail REC and make sure. It
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Thanks for the e-mail and advice Raymond. Tom
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Hi all. I have a cork grip that I need to take up some slack with. In Tom's book he shows using large thread or string. I have some plastic fly tying ribbing that seems will do the trick quite well. Just wanted to check with the board. I will be using rod bond and when I practice slip the grip over the ribbing it makes it just snug enough. Thanks for any insight. Tom
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I wait 30 minutes or so just to be sure. Try it on a piece of plastic maybe and see if you can wipe it of with a dry cloth after 30 minutes. I don't know the drying times of different pens. Tight wraps!
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Hey David, I'm with you. I just turned 49 and recently completed rod number four also. I have been getting parts together to build for my 10 year old daughter. I get to get a little crazy on this one, they love the colors so much. I had this wild reel seat crafted for me by Les Freiberg. It's a marbled green and tonight I had Annie pick her thread colors. She went with spring green with silver tr
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Schneiders, on the left, has Tiger eye blanks in 3 piece 4 and 5 wt. Good blanks for the money. Nice brown color.
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Hi Layman. The lamiglas blanks are unique. I have fished them for many years. I have found no other blank like them. Their low end blanks are heavy as compared to similar blanks in there catagory. Their butt sections are big, and strong, but also have a tip that is very sensative. I used to catch alot of chum salmon on them and if you know anything about chum salmon, they really test a blank.
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Garnet without cp looks great on this blank, with gold or silver trim. I just finished one with blue dun with no cp and used ncp grey trim. It looks sweet to.
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E-mail Bill Batson on the rainshadow forcast site on the left and he will tell you who stocks the best inventory and has good service.
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One of the sponcers incorrectly listed the butt diameter of a rainshadow and I had a insert/seat made for me by Les Freiberg. Well, the bore is off by about 1/8th of an inch. Am I into a rattail file or drill press, or should I send it back to les and let him handle it. I don't mind doing it myself as long as I am not in over my head. I sent an e-mail to Les but it's kind of late back there now.
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It appears that the site is clicking along at a much improved speed. I don't know about the traffic load but somethings going on. Tom, did you get that server you were talking about?
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Usually you have a nice nickel silver ring on the hood of your real seat that butts up against your grip. The winding check compliments the front of the grip.
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Have you tried struble? Les Freiberg at inserts by Les? Golden Witch and Bellinger, they might have something. Even though they might not show exactly what you want they maybe can do it for you.
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You probrobly hit it on the nose Emory. This did not cross my mind. I think the emerald was nicer. Where can you still get this blank?
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I just recieved my second rx7 olive green blank. What I noticed right off the bat is that the shade of the blank was quite darker and duller than the first one I purchased. The first blank had nice translucent look like the winston green color where as the second was more olive and not qiute as glassy looking. You still see the ribs but just draber. This blank also had no lable but did have a w
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I try hard to select hardwood seats that are not so boring. Going through them all can be quite a task. Ok, I could'nt resist! Give me a break.
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After the first hour I can relax. I don't have a turner but the epoxy seems to have set up enough to quit turning the rod. I won't fish this rod until 24 hours has passed since I applied finish. The rod builders prayer.
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Probrobly not. When you order the seat you want, get the grip from the same place and they will either have a grip that fits it or they will inlett it for you, usually at no extra cost. You can send me a e-mail and I can help you through it. Tom
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Aaron, I clean the blank with alcohol. Then I use a sanford uniball gel pen fine point. I write on a piece of paper to get the ink flowing well then I write my inscription. I don't write to quickly but not real slow either, just fast enough to let the ink flow. If you make a mistake it comes off easily with alcohol. I then spray the area with a light coat of fix-a-tiff by Krylon. Then I epoxy fin
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Tom, I go to members galleries and click on T or K and it only brings up a couple of pictures. What am I doing wrong. Tom
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I really wish I could go to the show. I can't afford it right now. I am raising two girls but then again, I have the rest of my rodbuilding life to get there. I would be like a kid in candy store, seeing all the componets and talking to the pros and buying everything I can. Shopping on line is difficult in this hobby. It takes a few e-mails to distributors to get everything right. For us guys th
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While using a Sage XP 7wt for steelhead last summer I noticed that my arm became fatigued in a way that I had not experianced with other slower rods of the same weight. I did not overpower my casts and was fishing a floater. Is this something that your arm becomes used to over time or is my casting style to slow for the rod? If so, what would you do to overcome this? Has anybody experianced this
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I think you can wrap the butt, tip and signiture area a little tighter because there is no guide to deal with. Correct me if I am wrong. Tom
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Ten guides should do it. I ran across the same thing on a forcast 9' flyrod that I am building now. Using one guide for each foot of blank plus one more is enough. I would'nt worry about it. There are some charts that add two guides to the nine but when you set them up it just seems like they are to close and to many and heavy. Find a chart that starts you off with ten and static test from there
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On those small wraps at the end of the rod, when finished, the first cross over thread, where you start the wrap, is really higher then the rest of the wrap. Is this the norm. Its hard to hide. Is this something that is burnished away? Tom
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Hickup!
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I got some alcohol on a wrap. It was a dry wrap,(no finish applied yet). Can this hurt the integrity of the wrap?
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Thanks for all the replies. I have work to do! Duane, do you use 600 or 1500 grit, or anywere inbetween? Thanks Tom.
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Every time I apply the first coat of finish my trim wraps have little rough spots. They are really tiny so I don't think I can cut them off. I don't know what causes this. Whats the best way to sand this area? What grit is to be used. Its almost like the first overlap and the pull through just don't want to lay down. I use Toms continuous wrap method and I like it. They look great until the fini
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Try a Sanford uniball gel fine. They are available at micheals and online. Just write your inscription, dry a few minutes, spray Krylon fix a tiff over it and apply your finish coat. Easy! You can see how it looks in the photo section under handles and grips. Page one. Mine say's first flyrod. Doubleclick on photo to enlarge. Tom
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