I'm with you there Bob. My lighting in the family room is not much to speak of. It's the only place I can build right now. I should buy another house just for my hobbies. Then I woke up!
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so how do you burry the tag ends. If you just cut them off you are left with fuzzy nubs, right?
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I can handle trim wraps when adding them to another wrap but have real trouble just doing a stand alone trim wrap as used in the signature area. I lay in my pull thru loop befor I start the wrap but they always seem to be to thick. Eight to twelve wraps so I have enough area for the pull thru. If it is to thin it unravels on the pull thru. How to you guys do it. Thanks
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I wrap sitting down peter. Thanks roger for your in depth responce. Building this wooden jig with wheels and adjustable sliding uprights and thread holder. Will post pic when done.
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My base is 3/4. I think I will go for the higher position base on your great responces. Thanks
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Biulding a new wrapper and have the option of 4 1/2" or 6" inches from base. Some times I get a kink in my upper back when holding my arms up for a while on my old jig. What is comfortable for most of you?
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I am building a rod jig in the spirit of the Flex coat wooden 7ft manual wrapper. My question is how do they mount the wheels to the uprights. I see no screws on the back side. I have been fumbling around with little l brackets but would like something more professional. The first wrapper I built worked fine but I want to get away from the felt and all. Thanks for any help.
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After you have wrapped the thread on to the guide foot about 10 or so turns and the guide is secure, you can then remove the tape. I like to tie in my pull thru thread at about 15 or so turns from the wrap finish so I have plenty of room to pull thru. I pull down and slightly towards the beginning of the wrap to burry the tag end.
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They are indeed very nice guides. All I use now. I talked to them the other day about making non agate stripper guides for us in the cheap seats. Sounds like they are thinking about it also. These guides do not need ANY prepwork and are very straight on your blank.
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I would start as I did. Get Toms book and get LA garcias book. Read them from cover to cover, over and over. Have the process memorized before you start and use them as a guide for each step of the process while you are building it. There are not that many steps, maybe ten or so. Play extra close attention to assembling the reel seat, mounting the grip and applying epoxy to the finished wraps. T
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So what do you giys do when you can't start the epoxy finish after the wraps are done. I have to put the rod up for a few days before i can get to it. I do check for dust and all that but I would like to seal the wraps in some way. Should I lay down permagloss or rod varnish to keep things together or just let ithe rod pieces sit? I do not have any varnish or permagloss. Do not use it. Thanks
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Thanks Tom for your reply. My eyes are not what they used to be and I find myself canting the blank more than I need to at the start of the wrap. if you don't get the satrt of the wrap just right you have this one turn thread build up that seams to overlap the first cross. I am more heavy handed now and know when this is happening. I tend to rush the top portion of the rod because the awsome bott
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It's been over a year since my last build. Doing a 7'6 4wt on a forcast blue blank. When I was pulling thru the tag ends on the finish wraps on the guides at the tip area had to pull pretty hard. I now have noticed that there is a slight warp on the last 6 or 7 inches of the tip section. I can tell because the tip top ring veres off a bit to one side. It was ok a couple of days ago. I am going to
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I can't stand it any more. I use Snake brand guides and I love them. No work on them guide feet. I have to use Hopkins (because of the price) for the stripper. I have to work on them but can't seem to get it right. They are very pointed and they should be blunt and rounded. When I get one side wrapped the other leg comes off the blank no matter how hard I tape it down. I get this nasty crease whe
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Ok case closed. All I do is flyrods as well. Funny how you read things by the pros and then find better ways to do them that seem to make more sence. Thanks Guys for the replies.
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Hello all. I have been away for a while but got the itch to build again. Feels so good! So most books tell you to mount the seat first, let it dry overnight then install the grip. I use rod bond and the last rod I built I did it all in one swoop. Everything came out just fine. Garcia says to stand the rod upright on the reel seat and let it dry. The seats I use have a concaved cap so this has be
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I would go with the u20. Has a slimmer profile. I have used them on four weights. Remember that your handle will need to be inletted for the seat. Most of the suppliers are happy to cut it for you when you get both pieces from them. Struble has really nice wood. The u8 is generally used on 7, 8, 9 weights and so on.
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I think flyrods look best without CP. Garnet or burgandy looks great with that color ok blank. What brand real seat are you going with?
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I was hoping someone could tell be the proper way to burnish a simple thread wrap. I use the white tool with the round and flat sides. How much pressure, direction, and so forth. At times some of my larger wraps near the butt end look as though some of the threads are standing on other threads next to them but on close examination they are not. I may be packing to tightly and pushing some thread
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Great sugestion. I have not felt the bottoms of the guides yet. Been rather busy tonight.
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I got some of these guides today and I just wanted to say that these are the best darn guides you can get for all you snake lovers. When they say no guide prep they mean NO GUIDE PREP! Beautiful craftmanship at a great price. They do not have regular stripper guides though, just agate, and they are a bit high priced for me but are pretty cool.
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Thanks for the replies. I am about 50 miles from them so maybe it won't take that long. Did not know they were in my backyard. I have been to anglers quite a few times. Great place.
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Where is the company located? Has anyone ordered direct? How long did it take? Thanks
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Yea, practice with A and get on with it. You will like it. Just wrap a whole bunch, also practice wrap with a guide in place. I must have practice wrapped 10 rods before I did the real deal. Good luck!
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Ok. Thanks Buddy. Done deal.
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Thanks. Could you elaborate on this a bit. Where does the spaced 6 inch guide go on the tip section? And then would I change all the other spacings?
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Hey all! Happy new year. I have been away from the board for a while but I got a new project for christmas from Dan Craft. It's great to be back. My question is, on the Batson site for a 8'6 6wt rx7 they show 4-9-15-22-30-39-49.5-60.5-72 as a starting point for this blank. That puts the stripper out of reasonable reach for me. I am measuring with the rod assembled. I decided to wrap the stripper
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Try the rod bond, I love the stuff.
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Hi Ed. The bul is a nice seat. I pondered getting one one these for quite a while. I normaly use struble but they are expensive. The bul5 looks great. They are slightly heavier than the struble u20. I think you would be very pleased with it. You seem to be like me and like A nice looking flyrod seat. Tom
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Well, we need to know if it is a flyrod, spinning or drift rod. You want to make sure the bore in the reel seat is larger than the butt end of you rod. The butt diameter is alway's listed on the website, in the specifacations. The reel seats also have their inside diameter listed as well. Tom
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