Thanks Roger. I usually pack the tube with slivers if tip top glue but I’ll add some to the rod tip as well.
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I’m finishing up a build (Sage Method 8wt). I have two tip tops,Snake and REC, which are correctly sized by measurement but when dry fit on the tip seem a little loose. I tried a wrap of A size thread but that was too tight. Should I go with the tip top as is or does anyone have another solution? I’m planning on a finish wrap but was only planning on taking the wrap to the bottom of the tub
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I'm doing the same build and got the ProWrap color fast thread in rust and it looks like a very close/exact match. When you wet it down with DNA is darkens slightly. I'm going to try a test wrap with CP to see how it reacts.
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Actually I think I’m going to re-wrap in the morning.
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So my ferrule wraps go pretty much to the edge (1/64 or closer). Is that too close?
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So my ferrule wraps go pretty much to the edge (1/64 or closer). Is that too close?
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Ron Schneider Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mike, > Take the dowel and wrap it with tape to the "male" > section, > then with a band of tape on the upper end that > goes into the "female" section, > you then have paper tape insulating both sides > of each ferrule from epoxy intrusion. > You can do that to
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Ron - if I use a spare blank or dowel the I’ll need to finish each section separately since I only have one dryer. I’m not opposed to that since I won’t need the rod for several months. Thanks
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I’m about to start finishing my wraps for my first 3 piece rod. My ferrule wraps come up the the very edge of the female ferrule. My question is what’s a good way to keep the epoxy from gluing the sections together? Should I wraps masking tape on the male section then apply epoxy while on the dryer? If so at what point do I separate the sections and remove tape, reassemble and put back on the
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A quick update. I emailed with Norm and he helped me through the guide placement. I’m going with his recommendations above and have ordered a 9 guide set. I should be able to start this weekend. I’ll post pics and updates I now have a much better appreciation for the science behind spinning rods thanks to all of you. Thanks Mike
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My new calc comes with 16H, 8H, 6L then 5 running guides. I was thinking the KT size 5 for running guides and a 5 tip top. Any other suggestions? Thanks
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Much better when you use the right calculator ????
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I went on to the Angler's Resource site and measured my Penn 3000 reel. Selecting the KL guide it comes up with 13 guides (30,25,20, 16, 12, KT10, KT8, KT7, KT6, KT5.5, KT5, KT4.5, KT4). Seems like a lot.... My measurements are A= 93.5 B=84.8 C=28.55 On Monday I was going to call Angler's Resource to confirm my calculations. I've never used Angler's Resource but it looks like they don't
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As usual all good advice. Ultimately, I want something that is a medium to light setup. Here are my specs: Rod blank - MHX 7', 3 section travel, 8-15lb, 3/16-5/8oz Reel - Penn 3000 or 2500 Line - 10# braid For guides I'll look at the Fuji KRs on the Anglers Resource site. Thanks for all the really good feedback. Mike
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don’t understand your guide choice. If doing a > spinning rod, the 3rd guide from the butt should > be a reduction guide and would have a higher frame > than the guide shown in your picture. What’s the > rod blank length, and what reel and line sizes are > you using? Also what type and size g
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Roger - I think i got the problem solved. I did an under wrap and coated with the hot glue then placed the tip top in place as you advised. Seems to fit fine. Thanks for the simple solution!
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So I'm back with more questions. This time I'm doing the layout of a 3 piece spinning rod. The issue I'm having is the 3rd guide from the butt falls right on the ferrule. If I move it up to the tip one inch the foot falls about 1/8" from the ferrule female side. First photo is the original and adjusted guide placement: Second photo is where the guide would be placed if moved to ad
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Herb - I’m not using epoxy. Just the normal tip top glue. I tried taking a drill bit to clean out inside of the barrel. I think the 4.5 top has a longer barrel so as the rod diameter gets bigger it exceeds the barrel ID. The blank is not painted. What if I sand the tip of the blank a little to fit the 4.5 all the way? I was going to wrap the top guide.
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Guys I’m working on a bait casting rod. The blank is an MHX CB783. According to the Mudhole site it should be a size 5 barrel. When I dry fit a size 5 tip top on it feels loose and flops down. If I go to a 4.5 it is snug and the barrel stops about 1/16” from bottoming out. Measuring down about 1/2 it measures 4.5/64”. Will the glue fill the gap on the size 5 enough to be strong enoug
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A quick update. I ordered several spools of reds, rust, burnt orange, and a couple of grays to try out. Tony - thanks for the link to the Sage site. I was looking for that. I like the color combination that they used so I might try that. While I don't necessarily want to copy the manufacturer color scheme it does not look too flashy.
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One other question... What size thread should I use for an 8wt? I was thinking A but would I be better off with B?
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Drew - I think I'll switch from the Snake guides to the REC #2's and Fuji TKWSG. Sage calls for #2's so I'll stick with their advice for now. I plan on doing a series of test wraps with a variety of colors that everyone is recommending. Don - I keep going back and forth on the fixed vs removable fighting butt. My thought with the removable was to use a light LockTite on it and maybe a rubbe
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mike, > Your email is hidden. > > email me - or un-hide your email so we can "talk" > Herb Sorry.... you should see it now.
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Tony - My son goes to IU so having a Buckeye rod may create family issues! :) Seriously I do like the gray black combination. I'll do a few test wraps with that.
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During January I am planning on building my first fly rod. I have competed 3 bait casting rods for myself and my son and will probably work on a 2 piece spinning rod in December. So far I feel pretty confident that I can pull this off. So as usual I have a few questions. The rod blank (Sage Method 890) is red! I mean RED! I think Sage refers to it as magma. I'll be using this rod for lar
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Mark - I’ll try your method. Thanks
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I’m finishing up my first rod. Today I put the decal on and as much as I thought I was taking my time and getting air bubbles out I still had a few. I tried heating up the decal and use the burnishing tool to smooth things out. No luck. Mud Hole is sending me a new decal. Any suggestions to make it go better? I was also thinking of just using a quill pen to inscribe the rod specs. Thanks.
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Thanks guys. I think on the striping guide I’ll make it about 10-12 wraps. The rest I’ll do around 5-6 wraps.
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I’m working on my first casting rod and I’m readiy to start wrapping guides. How much wrap should I have in front of the foot? Is there a rule of thumb to determine the width of the leading wraps? Thanks
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Genius! Thanks for the advice.
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