I’m about to start finishing my wraps for my first 3 piece rod. My ferrule wraps come up the the very edge of the female ferrule. My question is what’s a good way to keep the epoxy from gluing the sections together? Should I wraps masking tape on the male section then apply epoxy while on the dryer? If so at what point do I separate the sections and remove tape, reassemble and put back on the dryer?

Other suggestions?

Thanks
Mike

I would wait until it is almost done curing.
Another tactic if you want to be really safe,
is to tape a short piece of a surplus blank, or even part of a dowel rod small enough to fit inside the ferrule,
with a bit of masking tape around the part that goes inside, and attached to the OD of the other half in the same way.
Then there is very little chance of epoxy getting on either ferrule section.
The offset "wobble" should be negligible at the slow speed of a dryer

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Hello Mike.

I've been using one of these "CRB Blank Extension Tool SKU: #CRB-EXT $5.95 " from MudHole, they seem to work pretty good.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Ron - if I use a spare blank or dowel the I’ll need to finish each section separately since I only have one dryer. I’m not opposed to that since I won’t need the rod for several months.

Thanks

All you have to do is keep the wrap an 8th or 3/16 of an inch away from the joint. Then carefully apply the epoxy. If you are unsure of doing that, then apply the epoxy after having covered the male section , right up to the joint, with tape.

Mike,
Take the dowel and wrap it with tape to the "male" section,
then with a band of tape on the upper end that goes into the "female" section,
you then have paper tape insulating both sides of each ferrule from epoxy intrusion.
You can do that to attach as many sections as you have into just one unit to then be turned and finished.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Ron Schneider Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Mike,
> Take the dowel and wrap it with tape to the "male"
> section,
> then with a band of tape on the upper end that
> goes into the "female" section,
> you then have paper tape insulating both sides
> of each ferrule from epoxy intrusion.
> You can do that to attach as many sections as you
> have into just one unit to then be turned and
> finished.

Ok maybe I’ll try that. Thanks

Hello Mike.

The way Ron just told you is the way I used to do it, and it works great.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Mike,
I have used the following method for many years to take care of this job and it has always worked.

When ever I have to worry about something sticking to something else, I use WAX paper.

If any one out there is not familiar with WAX paper, here is a link. Commonly available in the aluminum foil and paper section of your grocery store.

[www.google.com]


I just take a strip of wax paper and wrap the smaller portion of the rod so that it extends several inches down the blank.

Then, I simply insert the smaller blank into the larger section.

I normally do my ferrel wraps to within about 1/16th of an inch from the edge. Thus far, I have never had any issue with finish extending over the edge. But, if it did, it would just come down on the wax paper and then a razor blade would shear off the over run to be flush with the end of the blank.

-----------
When I was working with composites and building up sections with resin - I would use the same technique to put a layer of wax paper on the male mold so to speak. Once the parts were popped apart, the edge was cleaned up and the lower portion would be untouched.

Take care

So my ferrule wraps go pretty much to the edge (1/64 or closer). Is that too close?

So my ferrule wraps go pretty much to the edge (1/64 or closer). Is that too close?

No it's not too close, if you're very careful finish won't go down over the edge of the female section. Make sure your application hand is firmly supported and apply while turning. You only need a small amount of finish to get around the very end of the wrap, then finish the rest of the wrap. Less is more.

1/64 is only too close if you cannot finish it off without losing control of the epoxy. BUT, it is not necessary to get that close. I don't see why everyone is so committed to using tricks to enable getting the thread close to the joint considering that many blank makers don't even consider any reinforcement necessary. The wrap will still be effective if its 3/16 away from the joint. Probably could be more and still be effective. We often overthink these things. IMHO

They may not need to be that close, but they are that close and have to be finished. On future builds Mike can avoid this problem. He could re-wrap them, but it sounds like he would prefer to avoid that..

Actually I think I’m going to re-wrap in the morning.

No need to rewrap! Use the waxed paper Roger mentioned it works great!

you don,t need ferrule wraps and you for sure don,t need all the useless weight they add..

I use some wooden dowels and some old rod blank pieces.

Another opinion.:
Some blanks don't need ferrule wraps for reinforcement. i.e CTS. But I do for cosmetic reasons.
However - other blanks will crack at the female side. i.e. Gatti (Italy).
So follow manufacture's recommendation.

I bring my wraps to within 2-3 wraps on "00" thread. Probably 1/2 mm.

The finish wants to cling to the wraps. The only way you're going to get the finish on the mating section is if you put it there by a slip-of-hand. I use head mounted magnifiers to apply finish.
BUT - just to be sure that I didn't get any finish on the male side - before full cure - I rotate the ferrules and pull them slightly apart to see if I got finish there. Wipe it off with alcohol if i did - and rotate back.
It is a heart break if you epoxy the sections together.
Herb
CTS