Hopefully it was thoroughly dried before the finish was applied. Perhaps it is fingerprints on the underside of the decal. That would be indicated by the portions where finger contact was made are the only hazy spots. For a solution to your problem, I suggest wrapping over the decal with white silk thread and coating with a thin finish. No CP on that wrap.
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I suggest including a look at United Composites dual helix rod blanks. While a bit heavier than most high modulus blanks, they are pretty forgiving in the occasional high stick situation. Although a bit heavier,with the right components you can mitigate that factor. I feel that despite a bit of extra weight in the blank,any rod will still perform at its best as far as sensitivity,etc. when using
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Have you contacted Elkhorn? They have always been good about replacements.
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The best bet is with a fly rod. Don't forget to use a hardwood,foam core,or birch bark grip on it. Don't want any cork on it. Trying not to add attitude to my response. :-/
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First,Tom Kirkman,the owner of this site does not wish folks to post pictures in the discussion threads. It takes up a great deal of bandwidth.That is why there is a seperate area for posting pictures. To answer your question,many order their stuff directly from Matagi. Billy Vivona stocks some Matagi stuff. He would be happy to order what you need if he doesn't have it in stock. You can find
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Gordon,you are welcome. I am glad you found the information useful. I hope you saved the parts or can get accurate measurements once both sections are cleaned up. Check with Ron at Schneiders first so you are supporting a site sponsor. If he can't help with a replacement ferrule,perhaps Jared or I do have one that will fit. I am surprised the O ring had been the culprit for the issue.
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Back in the day,it could have been NARMCO cement that was used or even ferrule cement. Both are similar in that they will lose their bonding power with gentle heat. It may also be epoxy. Try the heat route first and if that doesn't work,light use of a Dremel tool with a cut-off discs to just score the surface on two sides of the ferrule pieces can help. Just go slow and be careful. You don't want
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I have quite a few of the old Mildrum Carbaloy guides. What sizes do you need?
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If I am not mistaken,Conolon used a product called NARMCO cement. If so, then heat should break the bond. I would secure the handle in a vice and when heated,pull the blank straight out of the handle. I don't advise twisting. That,in and of itself can damage the blank. If all else fails, I would use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel.
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Your customer wishes to go from the white back to the original honey color? My experience has been that some were painted. Others seemed to have a pigment added to the resin used in creating the blanks. The best method to determine what process was actually used, is to check the butt end of the blank. If painted,then perhaps CitrusStrip or something similar would be the way to go to remove it.
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Maybe sand the whole thing down as close to the blank as you can without going onto the blank. Then add the cork over that.
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Try Moscow Hide and Fur...in Idaho I believe.
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Are you saying it switches back and forth between CW and CCW on its own?
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Be safe. Buy the foam sheets from a craft store and use those instead. They will make perfectly fine accent rings or whatever.
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Basically, the Sabres had line ratings that are the same as Calstar or Seeker equivalents. Leon Todd,owner of Calstar/Tackle Specialties,was the creator of the Sabre line.
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To follow up on Randolph's suggestion: marble the cap using the colors you are using for the thread work,etc.
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To follow up on Spencer's answer, use a Dremel tool with a fine grinder to cut it out once you have the outline traced.
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Why not apply the decal,coat the insert with Lumaseal, and then assemble the seat? Wait for the Lumaseal to fully cure first.at least a couple of days.
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Calstar or Seeker 270-8H. If you prefer shorter,stick with either the 270-7 or 270-7H. I'm just old school that way. lol I prefer the E glass stuff. I like to take 2" off the tip of the 270's. I leave the heavies full length. While composites are nice,I am just old school that way. It will whip the fish without breaking your back. If you want something nicer for a bait/light iron combo,the
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Randy, my favorite go to outfits are typically used with a Jigmaster reel. I have 501s and 99 sized in use more than others. You can buy a used 500 or 501 on the big @#$%& site for a reasonable price. There are also a great many flea markets where they can be found as well. The money you save can be used to upgrade the reel. I suggest an Accurate kit in the 99 size. The 99 size reel,in conjunctio
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Why not do a barber pole wrap or even a spiral wrap(in Giants team colors) over a dragon scale wrap? Just wide enough to clear the decals on both sides by 1/8" or so. Add the fingernail decals as you see fit in regards to spacing.
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I believe Doc Ski uses some used in fly tying and probably some from craft stores. It may not all be tape,but tinsel ribbons.
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David, you are welcome.
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Back in the 60s and 70s they were often used for making specialized west coast marlin rods. The rod was typically built using oversized guides,usually with size 20 rings and tips with similar large rings. The use of the oversized rings was because these rods were used to throw live mackerel on 15 foot leaders,generally using a suitable snap swivel. The marlin,and swordfish were typically cast to
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I like to use a spade drill bit chucked into a cordless drill for stirring my CP(Flexcoat) for a minute or two. The tip has been ground off and polished so I can make sure to get all of the solids mixed in from the bottom. Just make sure to rinse and dry the bit after using. I hate risking rust contamination. I personally use as many coats of CP as necessary to get the sparkly sheen I am after.
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Tom is right. It is either a Lakeland or Varmac reel seat. Both are no longer made.
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Neil, I would pay more. I have also used metallic embroidery threads with very good results. In addition, I haven't encountered knots thus far. My first spool was acquired in 1987. I tended to use that spool of gold for under wraps,inlays, and weaves. I still have that same spool and there is a lot left on it. I only paid $10 for it. I call that one heck of a bargain! I have been using others fo
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Yes.
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Check out some of the salmon/steelhead blanks from Rainshadow there or from Ron at Schneider's Rod Shop on the left. High quality blanks with a great track record for performance and value. You might find something suitable on his closeout page at a great price. He is very good with his customer service as well as answering questions.
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The inserts pictured in the above link appear to be acrylic as can be found on the Swampland website in turning stock form.
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