I have always done the exact thing Tom has said : "It's pretty simple, really. You apply a brief application of heat (a few seconds - remember the heat is at the tip of the flame) and then attempt slide the tiptop off" Every tip i have ever needed to remove slid right off after an application of heat , i would freak if that didn't work , it has worked 100% of the time with me.
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I think it's obvious that everybody does it their own way and it really comes down to personal preference but if i wanted expert advice i would ask the man who is world renowned and considered the leading authority on custom rod building going back many decades , his video explains it perfectly .
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Info from the Gorilla Glue website : Our new Clear Gorilla Glue is a hybrid adhesive that will require clamping. Apparently it does not expand like the original but from reviews it's hit and miss , some love it and others say it doesn't work well so who knows . Why take the chance just pick up something that you know works.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- " Let no drop of the glue ever touch a rod or a rod part" Or your bare hands because that stuff is a complete nightmare to remove , it even welds the fingers together on gloves lol.
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Jeremy , some of the best video's iv'e ever seen are from the man who put together and runs this website , the man responsible for RodMaker magazine and the man who is the author of some of the most acclaimed books on custom rod building ever released Tom Kirkman himself . Check the links below . Removing fishing guides to replace / Easy guide wrap starting /
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I have a feeling a lot of builders still check spine orientation when they get a new blank just to see how it lines up the question is are they still insistent on laying out their guides according to which side the prominent spine is on . I think it's probably half and half , iv'e wondered why the leading rod building supplier in the United States to this day show it as a first step in building
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Agree with Matthew , as good as Gorilla Glue is i wouldn't use it for reel seats , problem is the expanded glue becomes extremely hard once fully dried it doesn't stay soft . It's impossible to know just how much it will expand also , too little and it won't expand quite enough and a little too much and it could cause extreme pressure between the blank and seat & there's no way to gauge th
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I think everyone knows my comment was a joke Lynn , at least i hope so .
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No freaking out on my end , just a difference of opinion thats all. I watched it and i still say there is no perceptual difference between a rod spined as shown and a rod built on the straightest axis , unless perhaps you're one of the very few on planet earth that can fish a rod in a single plane that aligns with said spine. Just my opinion of course & as expected there are some who sti
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Here's my recommendation , i would take a very hard look at the North Fork Composites fly rod blanks , they're like 60% off list i believe and Gary himself is behind their design and manufacture . Loomis fly rod's get superb ratings in most comparison tests .
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Michael Tarr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the links, I guess these questions get > asked over and over. Oh , i wasn't trying to make you feel bad for asking the question so i hope you didn't take it that way , it was just an observation. If you would like to read more about what epoxies the forum members prefer and why they prefer
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I initially thought he was referring to the epoxy's for gluing reel seats etc.... but he's talking about thread finish apparently , probably one of the most asked questions in rod building history , almost as popular as " Whats the best rod" . There's is no best , there is only whats best for each individual and they rarely ever always agree. The below may help you out :
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I'm sure the Batson people are very nice also Lynn , i mean they can't be that bad for you to have such a strong desire to see the Utmost people instead .
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Well there you go , now we know for certain that Flourocarbon main line works fantastic with a 3000 size spinner with the very popular KL-H 20 - 10 H - and a 5.5 M reduction train . I use 10 pound braid and that stuff will rocket through a KL-H 16 stripper but Dave chose the KL-H 20 size which is a wise move because it will be more forgiving with slightly higher test lines and lines not quite a
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Action is where the rod initially flexes. Put the > butt on the ground and place the palm of your hand > on the tip. Push down on the tip a few inches and > note where the rod bends. If the bend is mostly in > the upper 1/3rd of the blank, you have a fast > action blank. > > ...........
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I don't have first hand experience with how stiff 6 - 8 pound Flourocarbon is as a main line , if i did and i knew it was extremely limp with very little memory i would be able to tell you with absolute certainty that the 16 H stripper would be the best choice . As long as you fish braid 15 pounds and under the 16 H will work brilliantly with a 3000 size reel and it will make the most efficient
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I built a 9 foot inshore rod and my reel of choice for it was a Stradic FK 5000 and the one mistake i made with it was using a KL-H 25 over the KL-H 20 for the stripper , when i strapped on the 5000 on my 8 foot inshore rod that does have a KL-H 20 stripper instead of the KL-H 25 that is used as the stripper for my 9 footer the slightly smaller KL-H 20 performed even better. The KL-H 25 still
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KR guide train not regular K i see , the difference between a 2500 size spinner and a 3000 at least with Shimano is line capacity , spool diameter is about the same, the Penn spinners spool diameters tend to get slightly larger as you go up. Never fished with flourocarbon as a main line , i do use it for leader material however . 10 - 15 pound braid will give you the best distance and a KL-
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+ 1 , Phil is the man , the legend , he knows his stuff , in other words, don't mess with Phil .
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I never knew RodGeeks took over St. Croix's Fresnillo Mexico facility in a joint venture but i knew that location is identical in every way with the same exact protocols and machinery as St. Croix's Park Falls Wisconsin factory so i knew the blanks being produced would be excellent . When i got to check the RodGeeks blanks out first hand at last years expo i knew immediately they were the real
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Sounds like a Penn Spinfisher SSV model in the 10500 size and if it is then you're right that is a gargantuan sized reel and it weighs a ton . I suppose being a builder you have to build what the customer requests even though you may have far better ideas , not all customers are willing to listen and take advice from people who know better . Then there are customers who want to listen and appre
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No , nothing needs to be underneath the wrap , i wipe down the bottom of the blank area with isopropoyl alcohol beforehand just to make sure it adheres to the blank as well as possible but thats it . Keep the heat moving as concentrated heat in one area too long has resulted in disasters .
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I believe Tom said it's being updated and does not work correctly right now . I'm sure he will respond to when it will be good to go.
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Your very welcome , i'm convinced you will love it once completed . I forgot to answer your other question , these are all single foot guides , i prefer them for everything other than the heaviest duty rods that will take a beating .
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Jeremy Pollack Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Herb, by “doesn’t look right” Im talking it > comes out to being 9 running guides(11 guides > total) with the kr concept..seems like a lot of > guides to me. Still new to this so I’m going > off the internet. How many guides did you end up > with Herb, and did you use single or double foot?
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I picked up the RodGeeks surf blank model SRF90MMF2 at last years expo, i went with Fuji's KR concept and it's an absolute rocket launcher and feather light to boot . With a Stradic 5000 with braid up to 20 pounds i went with a KL-H 20 - KL-H 10 and a KL-H 5.5 for the transition train with a KB 5 ( Choker) and size 5 KT 's as runners out to the tip . I should have went with size 4.5 runner
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Those rods on the dryer look ideal for that type of fishing , love the VS III guides , very nice indeed and that Lake Trout isn't just nice that fish is absolutely stunning . Thats one happy customer for sure .
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I don't know why anybody would spend considerably more money on St. Croix branded blanks in the SC II and SC IV designations when RodGeeks offers similar models made out of the same material for considerably less money . Imo St. Croix blanks were always priced too high compared to what you can get from the competition these days especially when you compare them to NFC's latest offerings . I b
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The below is a great thread that is only weeks old about how people feel about power wrappers: The PB wrapper is fine just like the others , the biggest complaints about power wrappers is the "Chuck" so consider purchasing one with the upgraded chuck.
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