Just remember if you love the build i'll take the credit but if you come out utterly disgusted and disappointed and you're the type to seek revenge it's Russell's fault .
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Yeah, thread is an option , i did read about people using thread for a variety of tasks other than just wrapping guides although i didn't think of it until you brought it up so thank you . I was curious is there is anything that would be more dense and not as soft as thread but i really cannot think of anything . Thanks for your recommendation nonetheless.
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The below guide was specifically built to use for a stripper on fly rods .
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I think i have been lucky because the seats i use have been relatively snug where i position them on the blank , i would be curious to know what people use in that type of situation where you only need to add maybe 3 sheets of paper worth of thickness for it to be a super tight fit . I have never heard of sensitivity complaints from Point Blank or NFC either and i would bet the house that there
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Removing reel seats that have been glued using slow set epoxy can be a real nightmare to remove and many resort to cutting it off with a high rpm Dremel using a cutting wheel , this is a process that requires precision & concentration because you can easily do a lot of damage . Some people have had success using other methods including using boiling water or heat guns but there are no guaran
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Tom's using carbon Fiber slang with the " Weight to stiffness " ratio , i believe most know exactly what he means but he is Tom Kirkman after all & knows exactly what he's talking about.
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I believe what Tom means is for you to register under your REAL first and last name which is apparently Adrian Soto not the "Thereelshop" . It's in the sites "Rules & Regulations" section.
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I think most of us have Lynn but think about just how big the archives are , even if you were to spend 24/7 in there for long periods of time the chances of running across every tip from every rod builder ever posted are extremely slim , i do believe you 100% that it is somewhere in the archives i'm just grateful that you decided to share it . Although i never thought of it and didn't utilize it
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While Steve has a valid point there have been millions of rods built using tape for arbors, to this day many modern rod building video's still use tape for arbors even sponsors from this very site . Whether it's advisable or not is another matter and a discussion for another day but i haven't witnessed a major outcry about a lack of sensitivity with rods built using tape arbors . Who knows Stev
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First thing is to get the blank and the reel seat and make a decision on where you want the reel seat positioned based on what you prefer and where it feels most comfortable . Position the reel seat on the bare blank and slide it in to a spot that feels right and temporarily tape it in place. Now mount the reel in the seat and determine where it feels best and where you want it positioned by mo
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I based part of my recommendations on the blank length which will be 7 feet , i'm sure whatever blank you choose will be fine . I checked out "The Judge" at the expo , thats one blank that i really liked but its pricey .
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I eliminated the BMNAG and MNAG guides because their height for a 30 size ring is 11 mm lower than the KW 30 and with your specific reel especially using 20 pound mono the KW 30's height advantage especially for the stripper is clearly a better choice. On another note , look around the archives over the last 2 years about builds similar to yours & for your specific application , over 90% c
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All i can say is "Wow", thank you for having the guts to post such an honest review . You're right there are quite a few guys who have raved about " Point Blank" on here so i feel your disappointment . You detailed everything about how you built it , handle type , material , what line types and pound test you used, what you were throwing etc... and nothing stands out to me
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Forgot to answer your question , yes, the KW 30 is still the best choice and thats based on two things , the biggest is your line choice which is 20 pound mono and the second is the spool diameter which is still considered on the large side . The only size 25 guide that is high enough to be considered is the RV 25 or the KL 25H with the RV being a double foot and part of the KR concept guide sys
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David you made an excellent choice, don't worry about Daiwa not offering the mag seal oil to the public , you will get many years out of that reel before you even need to send it back in for service . The fact is you like it and you own it now go out and enjoy it . Now , you never asked about spiral wrapped rods or whether underwraps are a good idea or not but if those things interest you say
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If you only knew how much time i have spent reading the archives , it's one of the first things i raved about when i first joined , i have spent ridiculous amounts of time reading stuff going back to 2004 but that tip i have never come across . We all know it's your idea Lynn , just admit it.
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Dang, i really wish i knew about this method before i went through that nightmare of trying to get rid of the wavy areas , would of saved me a ton of time and frustration.
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Lynn's tip about using a block that keeps the sandpaper flat is one of the best tips i have ever heard , brilliant .
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Only part i disagree with Lynn on is not using something wet to remove all particles and that a 9 rpm motor is too slow , i use a motor slower than 9 rpm and it has worked perfectly and you can try just brushing off particles and maybe it will be OK but i would never do it , i always use a tack cloth or some kind of wipe down first to make certain all particles are removed.
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Take your time with the sanding and really look and closely examine how level it looks , even measuring the diameter works to see if you need to sand a bit more . Sand then wipe clean and inspect and repeat as many times as necessary , be especially careful around guide threads because it's so ridiculously easy to scuff the threads if you sand even a little bit too much . Glad it's working out
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Here's what Tom says about a choke point landing past the tip of the rod : "Where the tip lies is of zero importance. What is important is the distance from the reel to the choke guide. Anything beyond that is just extra length covered with whatever number of running guides are required. Try to get the idea out of your head that there must be a specific length or distance beyond the cho
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Yeah no worries , it always does that when sanding a dry finish down . Just wipe the sanded section down with either warm water and a dash of dish detergent , U40's brush cleaner or alcohol, i have used all three and they all work .
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Pretty sure it's long past the point of popping it Lynn , he could sand it out if he just can't deal with it and he's losing sleep over the dang thing . He can wrap over it with a small trim ring to hide it also .
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I can't remember what grits i used but hopefully someone else will chime in .
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Anthony is talking about using sandpaper to thin and level hardened finish and i have gone through a ton of sandpaper myself doing the exact same thing . As long as the finish is dry sandpaper with a fine grit rating can be used to remove the wavy finish areas and smooth them out for a new coat .
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Robert Ford Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks guys. Yeah I am in agreement,I'll leave it > alone. Its a tiny imperfection. It's killing me > lol! Don't let it get to you like that , i know in the beginning you obsess about it but you will find as time passes the obsessive thinking fades away and it becomes a complete non issue , out fish
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I prefer uplocking because thats what i am used to , i add a locking collar nut but it's not necessary . When i pick up a rod i know exactly where i want the reel seat and i have never ever had the urge to move it even slightly in one direction or another , the seats i choose are light as a feather and i see no difference in that regard especially on surf rods , grips , guide sizes , style , c
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Seriously consider spooling up with 40 pound braid and then mono of your choice on top , i switched to using the FG knot for most connections , it's exceptionally strong and incredibly thin.
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You got a Saltist 5000 ? That holds 280 yards of 20 pound test mono and weighs in around 22 ounces so a wise choice .
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