Norman, How is the hidden rear hood / grip kept from turning / unscrewing / loosening while in use? I would think that would create quite a problem when fighting a sizeable, salt water fish, possible not as much with guides on the bottom of the rod and hence minimizing rod torque. I, at least, thought I was kidding until you just informed me otherwise that such a system exists. Are there others
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Norman and Jon, I was kidding about an up-locking seat with hidden threads. I figured attempting to employ some sort of mechanically locking rear grip would involve more thinking than even my Habitual-Over-Thinking brain was worth employing. I am fairly set on using a spinning reel.
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I’m guessing the30lbs of drag of either the Penn or Daiwa would be sufficient to yank a surfer off his board, right?
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What are your opinions, the pros and cons of bailess surf spinning reels in general, the Penn Spinfisher SSV6500BL in particular? Thanks for your insight.
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All excellent information from you guys as I have become reliant upon. I will probably end up with the Penn SSV6500 but considering the Daiwa Emblem Pro as well. $129.00 seems like a good deal for the Daiwa and I love my Saltist 2-speed. Thanks, Russell. Donald, good advice concerning up-locking reel seats for casting heavy weight. I typically build seats down-locking on light, fresh water rods
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HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!!! While realizing this is a (no, excuse me, that should be “THE”) rod building website, I would appreciate your feedback, suggestions, opinions on surf spinning reels. I have never surf-fished before but am in need of purchasing a reel prior to rebuilding this vintage Conolon FG rod. I am uncertain if I’ll be throwing “8 & bait” or jigs, but probably both while learnin
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It is comforting (I guess) to know I am not alone.
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Gib, I do not use the “buggy whip” style tensioners simply because most of my wraps are too detailed to use the power and spin the rod by hand. If in need of backing up a half turn, I just back up the spool of thread and blank simultaneously. When it comes to actually putting tension on the thread to create a tight wrap, I prefer to put “brakes” on the spool rather than squeezing / pinching the
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Lance just admitted to things the rest of us are afraid to admit. Touché, Lance!
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I am really impressed with so many of you utilizing a locking thread wrap for single foot guides. I thought I was one of the very few taking the time and effort to afford my customers with the added security they deserve over a store-bought rod. While I have developed my own style or method of doing such, every single-foot guide on a 2-10lb rod SHOULD be, and over 10lb MUST be wrapped- locked as
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Thanks to all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hi to all. While hoping all had a nice Christmas, I am also hoping you are all back to building your fishing instrument works-of-art for the enjoyment of those not blessed with the ability. While certain I could not possibly be the first to discover the idea or effect, I thought I would share my discovery with those unfamiliar. Matt Wright and replies to his post, “Two coats of epoxy” sparked th
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Phil & Roger, I would love to share the workings with everyone here, especially with those who have helped me so much as both of you. At this point, it would unfair to two parties interested in the unit and concept. I guess I’m guilty of trying to hype the concept. But I’ll keep you posted.
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I hope all had an enjoyable Christmas. I rarely use metallic thread in favor of a less flashy wrapped rod but am in need of replacing two guides on a customer’s rod and would like to match the existing wraps. Am I assuming correctly that metallic thread, ProWrap in my case, acts similar to Color Fast (NCP) and does not require CP? I hope so as I do not care for the restrictive properties of CP.
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Norman, Do those pens come with or without attached feathers?
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Gib, My fabricated guide alignment / mounting fixture, admittedly, does not hold the guide while wrapping but it does not have to because the guides are hot-glued to the blank prior to wrapping. I could employ the fixture to do so but do not recognize any advantage.
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Actually, Donald is exactly, if not practically, correct. How precise do the guides really need to be aligned? I do not think I could personally tell a difference in casting distance if the guides were not perfectly aligned. But aesthetically, misaligned guides look very unprofessional. I will keep using my guide alignment / mounting system simply because it is quicker and easier and, of course,
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Roger, I will remember your opinion of DNA.
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Lasers are inherently extremely precise, much more so than the eyes and fingers actually using them for guide alignment. Better to use a taught, brightly colored thread fished through the guides to align them. Best to employ a single, precision, repeatable mechanical fixture for each guide all the way down the blank. While requiring some engineering and fabrication on a mill, I do not understand
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Matt, All good advice, especially Donald’s concerning eliminating contamination before continuing. But, without seeing the actual problem, I agree with Lynn and, at this point with nothing to lose, would put another coat on it and see if the issue goes away. May I suggest allowing the present finish to set for 2-3 days and lightly scuff with a scotchbrite before proceeding. If solved, great, if
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You guys and this site are awesome. Elastic thread? Never heard of it before but I will definitely find some tomorrow!!!
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My hat is off to you guys, you’re much better than me. Attempting to do a weave might possibly overload my decrepit brain cells.
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I have an inquiring mind and need to know; what are you guys talking about? I would love to have a method of FINELY printing on a blank or rod but the only thing I have seen is Mud Hole’s “Metallic ink pens” which are too big. Most of the wrap epoxies are relatively mild but that is also a concern when considering the ink and bleeding possibilities.
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Gib, HAPPY HOLIDAYS to you and yours. At the risk of sounding boastful or conceited, the wrapper and guide alignment / mounting fixture work flawlessly each time, every time, and repeatable if a guide gets knocked off prior to wrapping. There really is nothing similar commercially available. The only thing I would (and will) change is a larger motor to accommodate shaping cork grips. The presen
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Jon, From your last name, I suppose you do not do much freshwater fishing.
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Gib, Yes, you do ask a lot of questions. I did also and still do because there are genuine veteran gentlemen here willing to help. All of the above is great advise you should take special notice of Lynn’s post, especially purchasing a cheap blank, seat and guides and wrapping it all together without thread epoxy (the CP idea is super and I’ll give you mine as I basically won’t use it anymore). T
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Happy Holidays to all you wrapping warriors and those willing to admit they are related. It requires someone special to understand (put-up with at least) why we spend so many hours in the shop. Many of you have adorned me with the gift of your wrapping knowledge and it is humbly, graciously and sincerely appreciated. Now get off the computer and get back out in the shop and wrap some rods!
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I have been building rods for less than one year, but many within this forum have been graciously generous with their knowledge, assistance, suggestions and ideas to shorten my learning curve drastically. And Tom Kirkman keeps all the wheels greased from which all of us benefit.
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Gib, I was expecting to view some negative reply posts concerning guide foot adhesive as seen and discussed previously. Norman and Donald are correct (as usual) and I will add the adhesive can act, somewhat, like an underwrap to cushion the blank from the guides. How effective it is as an underwrap may be arguable, but it can’t hurt. Heat up the guide foot with a heat gun and quickly wipe the fo
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Jim, Your are precisely correct on all accounts except the larger guide size. My old eyes and fumbling fingers are hard-pressed to wrap minuscule micro guides!
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