David’s post was very entertaining and well written!!! Now, are we all going to have fun or contain ourselves to Spencer’s original post LOL? Oh, let’s have fun.
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Bill, Spencer, Norman, Phil and Lynn, Thank you for the replies. This is yet another example of the wealth of information all of you have and share. I would have guessed “tiger” thread was from the 1970s, possibly the 60s. Interesting.
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Awesome, more input! Thank you very much. I think Ken’s comment was to acknowledge ceramic rings can be fragile and break = good point. If Spencer can cast a 50lb roller rod more than 20 feet, he is obviously a better man than me. Kendall’s comments are well received and understood; constant friction = roller while corrosion and maintenance = ring. So, the running total has the ring guides
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I graciously appreciate the additional replies. Spencer, the movies and shows you referred to are great to watch and from an era when men were men and sheep were scared LOL!!! Phil, do you mean to say you never put rollers on your fly rods? Where is your sense of adventure LOL? Fred, good point but I would think roller guide manufactures must have that figured-out by now. From the replies rec
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Roger, Thank you for your reply. Such may be as anticipated. Hopefully others will reply with their insight as well.
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While it seems the majority on this site tend to build light to medium rods of the varying sorts, typically myself included, I am hoping to stir/spark interest with those involved with larger class quarries. My seek of information is regarding ringed verses roller guides. It seems there is a declining ratio of roller-guides verses ringed-guides used on 50lb+ big-game rods recently. I am bewilde
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Thanks, Norman, but I was hoping for replies from veterans; not just those with only 50 years of experience LOL!!!
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When did thread manufacturers first offer “Tiger Thread”, as ProWrap presently calls it? After a well overdue cleaning of his storage shed, a friend of mine (re)discovered a half dozen rods given to him in the mid 1960s. Two of the rods sported guide wraps which look virtually identical to ProWrap’s Tiger Thread advertisements. If they have been rewrapped, such is not obvious. I would not have gu
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Thank you for those who took the time to reply. I must express my disappointed that more did not reply, especially the veterans and heavy-hitters; Unfortunate for all of us.
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Scott, Thank you for your contribution.
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Your supported opinion is graciously requested! The opinions and debates concerning under-wraps and double over-wraps is ongoing and will probably never be decided one way or the other simply due to there not being a definitive right or wrong opinion, compounded by personal preference. Although separately discussed previously numerous times, I would like to include both together here as they are
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Mike, Through a novice’s eye, Placing a guide on a ferrule would save a bit of weight and be a good thing = killing two birds with one stone.
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Phil, Whew, I feel better now.
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Thanks, Norman.
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Phil, Boy, you certainly took my post 180* the wrong way! Please read again and note the capitalized “SEEMINGLY”. Sorry for any confusion.
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Dale, There are many opinions, ideas and methods concerning balancing a rod of which none are wrong and all are correct = personal preference. Balance is totally subjective as one angler may prefer a slightly tip-heavy rod while others prefer a lighter tip. Different types/styles of fishing can effect where the balance point is. I put more emphasis on a lighter weight over-all and let the balan
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George, You have received replies from caring and concerned veterans (and a newbie like me). I feel confident in speaking for all that we would be very interested in learning the outcome of your situation. Thank you for the thanks and please keep us posted when you return to the project.
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Tom, I suppose you may be correct = heavier offshore rods increasingly employing unibutts. Maybe I’ll give them a shot on my next big-boy build. For right now, Hello Batson, pleasure to meet ‘ya!
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Terry, I don’t know what you said or did, but I just read replies from veteran builders within this site which I have never heard before; and I cannot argue with them = careful what you wish for LOL. That being said, WELCOME ABOARD AND HAVE FUN!!!
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William, Please excuse my compadres’ SEEMINGLY lack of interest but this question is probably asked more than any other with the possible exception of, “what’s the best guide placement”. Allow me to offer that ALL present thread finish epoxies are excellent and are simply variations on the same theme; the best one is determined by which one works best for you. We cannot help you simply because w
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Don, Form should always follow function! I agree with Tom and Roger although I personally do not care for EVA-type grips. If you are @#$%&-bent on the look of natural cork (me too), consider clear heat shrink tubing at the pressure-points from the rod holder on the grip. I have employed such on the very end of cork grips to avoid damage to the butt of the cork when set down with the rod vertical
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Phil’s suggestion and Jay’s endorsement may certainly be a “quick solution” to your ferrule issue but may burn a bridge behind you on the path to repairing the problem properly and permanently. It is unknown what type of adhesive (if any) was originally used, the compatibility of CA with such, and CA is unsatisfactory used as a gap-filler. It would also be more difficult to remove in the future,
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While it certainly does not surprise me that Batson manufacturers a proper, quality seat for a 130 stand-up rod, I am surprised, if not disappointed, none of the other manufacturers apparently do. What gives?
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George, With only 5 years of experience, I have not encountered metal ferrules which were pinned such as our resident guru, Norman, has and graciously offered his insight and suggestions. As usual, I agree with all of Norman’s suggestions (who has the right to argue with a guru) LOL? The photos are a bit fuzzy to attempt to see exactly what is going on. If there was only one elongated slot/hole
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James, Thank you for the reply. I will certainly consider your suggestion.
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Ben, You may be correct; Roger could very likely have built a mold and is simply toiling with us lol. Ya know, I haven’t built a mold for quite some time and …… ?.?.?
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I have always used (even before building rods) Aftco reel seats for bigger saltwater rods. Since Aftco no longer produces slip-over reel seats, what is a strong enough seat for a 130lb tuna rod? I am not certain I want to go the Unibutt route.
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From George’s description, I take it that the fit between the male and female halves is good; it is the female half which has become loose from the blank. As Norman, I am assuming this is a metal ferrule
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Will, no apologies required, just open minds. The only trout fishing I do is in the Sierra and once in a while the Rockies. How big do those lake trout get? All of my trout rods are spinning and my saltwater rods are casting. It is rare I stray very far from the Fuji flock. For medium type freshwater casting rods, many on this site utilize the height of a RV-6 for the stripper followed by 1 or 2
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George, If the female ferrule is that loose on the blank, it should not take too much to remove it, clean the bore and blank, apply new ferrule (tip top) hot-melt adhesive and remount. Simply rewrapping the outside while the inside is not properly affixed to the blank will certainly result in failure, probably in short accord. Ferrules require extremely close tolerances and it is doubtful you wo
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