Roger is a very talented man in general and electronics in particular. On top of that, he is just plain ol’ nice. His generosity and knowledge has helped many, me included. You are the best, Roger!!!
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Mike, If the next ½ size smaller tip top is too small, then the one you have is perfect! There will be the correct clearance between the tip top and blank to avoid wiping all the hot-melt off as the tip top is slid into position.
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Will, Since we have been in contact off-site, there is no need for further comment here.
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Dan, As usual, Roger has offered sound advice. Consider not straying too far from it! As for the Phenix rods; it is my understanding they are manufactured in China, yet their quality is among the best in the industry. I have built on them and they are very, very nice blanks and fish extremely well. If you like Thread Master finish, then use it! I recently tried TM Light after using ProKote for
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Will, If you offer a bit more information, I will offer my humble, apprentice opinion; reel spool diameter and level-wind or not, line weight rating of the (UL?) blank, and length of blank (6’9”?).
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While it is possible most epoxies BEGIN TO SOFTEN at 140*F, for all practical purposes and in most cases, the softening will not be noticed until over 180*. Most low temp epoxies such as thread finish epoxies benefit from a post cure of 150* which will “set” the epoxy so that subsequent exposure to that 150* will not soften it. That is why I always post cure my rods to limit the chances of damage
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Jim, Thank you for replying. Will you personally be attending? I would especially like to meet you.
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Tom, Thanks for sharing a glimpse of the 2020 ICRBExpo for those of us unable to attend. It appears to have been another good show. Viewing the video was fine after a beer and Dramamine LOL.
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Thanks yet again, Tom. Hopefully the topic is not dead and those attending will reply.
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Roger, I cannot thank you enough for starting this topic!!! Thank you also for those replying; Tom, Norman, Michael, Jeffery, Spencer, John, David and from the number of replies received so quickly thus far, thanks to those who have not replied yet for adding additional information. It is obviously a widespread and ongoing issue which some of you have apparently developed methods of re-spooling
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Thanks, Tom. I hope your ICRB Expo went well. I wanted to attend but just could not quite swing it; it is 3000 miles away for me rather than 30 minutes to Long Beach, CA for the Fred Hall Show although yours concentrates on custom rod building. So, which RB.O vendors, sponsors and members will be attending the Fred Hall Show? Thank you for taking the time to reply.
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Tom, Sponsors and Membership, Am I allowed to ask who will be attending the Fred Hall Show in Long Beach, CA this coming weekend?
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Another way to find guides in the carpet is to remove your shoes.
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Gary, EXCELLENT IDEA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will remember that one for sure. Thanks for sharing Lynn, so there is your answer (unless 250* is required) LOL.
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I have only spoken with Bill Batson on the phone but certainly agree he is very interested with assisting in decision making and just generally a very nice man.
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Norman, I am not allowed to use my wife’s hair dryer LOL!
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Lynn and Norman are veteran-wise to be cautious of over-heating the blank as should anyone/everyone else!!! Take it slow and gradually build up to the heat required. Maybe I am spoiled as my heat gun has 6 temperature and 2 air-flow settings. Lynn, if you have to ask, it may be too late LOL.
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Peter, Allow me to offer my novice yet attentive perspective. The KR Concept is quite profound in performance! Unless utilizing a 6-6.5 telephone pole of a blank, most would assume a <2000 size reel being incorporated. Spooled with braid or <10lb mono/flouro, I would build according to Fuji’s KR Concept = KL-16H, 8H, 5.5M followed by KB, KT runners of your choice. Larger reels/line size wo
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Ken, A heat gun can be your best friend in removing 95% + of the thread finish with the least amount of effort. Done correctly with a compliant finish and heat, the thread can actually be used to remove the epoxy by simply unwinding the thread. The following procedure has worked extremely well for me in all but a very few circumstances; 1.) With a razor blade or utility knife, cut through the e
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Tom, Roger, Phil and Ben offered very good advice, although I typically do not use CP as Ben does. In particular, Roger’s comment on proper thread tension is quite important. Unfortunately, “proper” is a relative term and difficult to precisely describe as I discovered when asking that very question on this site a few years ago. I probably have a tendency to use more tension than necessary but
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Thanks, Bill. I wanted to attend but just could not quite swing it. Many of us not attending will be grateful for updates.
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Touché’, Dennis!
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Hopefully Roger Wilson is not in-route with his 12-wheeled shuttle LOL!!!
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Rick, Are you still with us?
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Tony, Thanks for your contribution. You may be correct but, in general, I think we have all found off-shore and fly anglers spending considerably more on their equipment than the average spin or cast fisherman.
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Roger, We all know you are a great fabricator but you have gone overboard this time!!!
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Rick, You may be new to rod building but you are wise to realize it is an “obsession” = you will do well! Yes, craft hot-melt glue is fine for securing the guides to the blank prior to wrapping but do not use it for the tip top; the tip top should be installed with tip top/ ferrule (hot-melt) adhesive which has a higher melting point and is stronger. I use hot-melt glue to secure my guides altho
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To all who will be attending the ICRBE, enjoy and have a safe trip!!! I am jealous to be unable to attend, if for no other reason than to personally meet and thank those who have helped me so much (or should I say supplied my addiction).
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Tim, You have received quality replies from veteran builders. As Norman mentioned, the best/proper way is to remove and rewrap the guides so the new EVA can be slid into place. Obviously, that entails quite a bit of work compared to slitting the grip. Without knowing the line class of the rod and hence the forces the slit-grip will be subjected to, you may want to consider putting the slit up to
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Thanks for the additional replies! Spencer, I have not built a rod with the Aftco ultralight rollers but a guy brought one on a trip to the breakwall for calico and, as you mentioned, cast surprisingly well. While I am obviously a proponent of rollers for rods of >50lb, even I am not certain if they are that beneficial for rods <50lb. Phil, the vast majority of bottom rock fish rods I hav
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