Thanks guys. I was already using washers but was trying to use something with less tension then nylocks. I'll try flatting one side of a washer and stud
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The studs on the commercially available thread carriages have recessed ends on each stud. This fits a rectangular i.d. washer eliminating the rotation the the spring and wingnut. Ive noticed that when building a wrapper and using all thread when using the thread the rotation can rotate the washer,spring, and nut. This either tightens or loosens the nut. Anyone sourced out threaded rod with sq
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Would a rubber sealed bearing offer less or more friction then a standard metal shielded bearing?
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Roger Thanks for the reply. I am not getting several rotations out of the headstock with the wheel removed. but again when I rotate the headstock i can feel the grinding. The bearings are just your run of the mill 2 buck specials with metal shields. I was thinking of upgrading to rubber shields or even bocabearings but obviously those are much more. I don't know if they would be worth the investm
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Last night i noticed that my pacbay deluxe chuck was getting long in the tooth. The bearings have a noticable grind to them and I also noticed that while spinning the bearings are actually working therselves out of the aluminum stand. I measured them and they seem to be standard 12x28x8 bearings. I can purchase different models all over the net in that size but I was curious if there might be
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Done and thanks for all the info guys.
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I've built my own hand wrapper that will also be my dryer setup. I like the smoothnes of the ball bearing wheel setups on some of the power wrappers. Anyone found a good source for the wheels?
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Thanks for all the replies guys. It was honestly boggling my mind how i was able to continue to put finish into the void and it would disappear as if I never placed any in there. I'll work out the kinks tonight.
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Last night i was putting a third coat of finish on the winding check/trim band area. I had already put on two light coats and everything looked good. I got everything bubble free and smooth and walked off to have a beer. When I came back I noticed a large bubble had formed and popped right at the curve of the winding check transition. No worries I thought and as the epoxy was still flowable I fil
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Recently picked up a flexcoat universal slip clutch to use in a drill jig. I was going to use it to turn a rod blank at a faster rpm for finish application but what I've noticed is that after inserting the rear grip into the clutch and turning everything on the rod isn't centered and wobbles on the hand wrapper carriage. I'm new to building so any help in centering the blank with rear grip insta
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Thanks guys. the tape wasn't so tight i couldn't slide the grip about 3-4 inches onto the blank tail. after that thought the friction from the tape and grip were to to much.
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Chris Richer Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Use the mesh drywall tape. It will allow support > along the whole length. Hadn't even thought of that. Awesome idea though. I'm assuming you mean the yellow semi sticky version.
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Bill I would have needed several layers of double sided tape. I have some for golf grip installation but I was again concerned that the epoxy would bond the tape and grip but not bond to the blank and eventually the tape stickiness would wear off. It looks like the ID of the 9.5 tour star grip is 13mm and the batson blank OD at the butt is 11.176mm. You can't really feel the humps unless you
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Over the weekend I put my first tour star grip on. The grip went on a batson IMMP70M blank and it needed a fair amount of building up with tape. I built up several wraps along the length, epoxied everything and it seemed to have worked well. Problem I noticed after the fact was that upon inspection on the profile you could see slight ridges where the tape arbors are. I didn't dare run straight ta
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Ahhh okay. Ya I had contacted roger about his setup. He'll sell you a very well priced complete rig. I had already started tinkering with my own design. But I would work with roger if I hadn't. He's done a lot of the leg work and contributed a lot to the community.
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Steve I think I might be misunderstanding what your asking.
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Thanks for all the replies guys. After chatting with Roger and looking over some more videos I dove into making a faster finish setup. The first order was to create a chuck that I could mount to the cordless dril i was planning on using. I wasn't going to take the drill apart just clamp it into my woodworking vise. The first chuck was a 2" pvc cap with 3 bolts to center teh rod blank. I fou
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John I've got an email into Roger asking him some questions. Any way you have some pictures of the wiring and final look of the switches and rheostat/switch setup?
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Thanks a lot guys for the info and ideas. I've got a pretty well outfit woodshop and plenty of the materials needed to just build one. Sounds like a challenge to me. I'll hav eto get with roger wilson and pick his brain on power sources for the variable speed motor. It seems like the old cordless drill is a viable option(i have one). John did Roger setup with an old cordless drill motor or som
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Thanks Roger. I guess my big drawback is not wanting to overbuy if not necessary but at the same time if i have to spend money on a dryer and still build my own wrapper then i might be better to go that route.
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So a buddy let me borrow his 6 rpm dryer motor for my build and I used it to apply finish. No doubt it works but it seems the general consensus is that when applying finish a faster motor rpm is better. I did have some trouble getting straight edges but that is inexperience too. I'm just getting into rod building so I for sure want to pay my dues and not just go blindly buying things I don't nee
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Thanks guys. I chatted with Lance over at swampland and went foregripless. My other builds(just a couple) have been without foregrips but the cool winn colors only came in the two piece sets. I instead am going with the tour stargrips and no foregrip.
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Thanks for the lathe idea. I don't have one to use but man would I love to be able to slip a foregrip over the front nut on the aero grip. Kind of like the fuji vssm i think.
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I'm about to start my second rod and was going to install a set of winn grips. The rod will be setup for spinning and built around an aero seat. I was confused on something though. In the pictures on winns website they show the fore grip as have a black extension on the back of the grip. Does this slide inside the reel seat or something? I've never installed winn grips before but as I understand
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