To fellow Alaskan rodbuilders: Are there any locations along an "inside cruise" that I might be able to obtain some birch bark? (route = Ketchican, Juneau, Skagway, Sitka, Seward, Anchorage). Appreciate any suggestions, Stan
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Josh, thanks for starting this thread. I'm in the process of building a couple UL/L rods. I received the latest RMM but haven't spent time with it yet. Appreciate everyone's input. Stan
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Billy, you would need a large number of anonymous wrap judges who might have lots of varied ideas of what is "best." What one likes might not be what another likes, therefore the need for lots of judges. The fact is one of you NERB will win because of your great skills (I'll subit an early vote for Mike Joyce's wrap, whatever it is). This is all said in jest. Go for it if you think i
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JP, great meeting you and seeing your fantastic work. I learned an awful lot regarding those beautiful birch bark handles. Thanks for taking the time. Stan
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Bought some birch bark from Mark Crouse at the show and look forward to trying it. That got me wondering about bark in general for handles, etc.. Has anyone tried barks other than birch? There's a lot of old pine trees in the yard with thick pine bark. I'm thinking of giving the inner layers of pine bark a try for the fun of it, but I don't have high hopes for successful results. Stan
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James, Definitely get "Rod-Building Guide" by Tom Kirkman if you don't have it. It's the single best written resource for getting started, IMO. FlexCoat also has a very good publication for getting started. Both are very inexpensive and are available from almost all the sponsors. Get both. As for your main question, you can't go wrong by calling either FishStix4U or Custom Tackle
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Mark, my wife won the package of EVA handle material and gave it to me in exchange for a nice dinner. Thanks for the reception prize. Stan
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Mike, It was the "Where's Geraldo" event which Bruce won. Sorry you missed this year's event - wanted to see if you'd done ahy thing with that O-ring material.. Billy seemed pleased to have won something. I got a copy of the 2nd edition and he discounted the price since I'd purchased the first. Stan
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As expected, this has been an exciting day of meeting old and new friends and buying stuff! First place I hit was Andy's trash cans where there were a ton of bargains on rod blanks. Bought 15 as well as renewed my supply of ThreadMaster and a few other things. My wife & I both won prizes at the reception, but missed out on the Renzetti lathe. Mike Barkley said his luggage hadn't arri
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Allen, A couple coats of Gudebrod 811 over the Madeira Polyneon 40 seems to work well. (Maybe a third coat over really light colors such as yellow, white, etc). As mentioned, there is a very large color selection. Madeira has a thread card available, for purchase, which shows the actual threads and colors. Forgot the price but it's worthwhile for planning purposes and if you pllan to order
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The only reason to heat the hi-build resin is to thin it for measuring purposes. Why heat the hardener when you can conveniently measure it as it comes out of the bottle? At least that's how I see it. Stan
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Scott, If you haven't seen it on the photo section, Mick has a very good guide foot prep photo. I'd of added the photo link if someone would tell this old hillbilly how to do it. Stan
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For Hi-Build, I microwave the resin for 10 sec. (never the hardener) with the lid off, to help get it into the syringe for measuring purposes, like the instructions say. After measuring accurately, the resin sits in the mixing cup to cool a bit before adding hardener and mixing so as not to cause premature "reaction". Works fine in the 'ol epoxy mixer. I see no purpose in heating the ha
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I'd sell them and buy more rodbuilding stuff, as well as travel to some place warm for fishing. But good luck with the project. Stan
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Ted, Dremel tool with cut-off disk, goggles for eye protection and a bit of care should work well. Stan
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I'd like to see both Shows at High Point in '08 under Tom's terms/guidelines. It wouldn't hurt either venue, IMO. Stan
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Jerry, Your query led me to test out PermaGloss on both Prizm Hologram Green as well as Madeira Spectra Green. I suspect they might be identical - if not, certainly interchangable. Wrapped 6 mm segments of each and applied PG. Results: No visiblable degradation of either of the flat threads under magnification after PG. Worked just fine. Joe was absolutely correct - I just wanted to see
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Bill, If you tighten down the drill trigger (say with a piece of velcro) and plug the drill into a sewing machine foot pedal you'll probably be able to get the speed control you require. Some years ago. I modified my wife's sewing machine foot pedal for just this purpose, by adding a female plug to the correct foot pedal cord. Stan
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Jerry, To play it safe, you might want to do a test wrap on a piece of scrap with the Prizm holograph flat thread with PG, before trying it on your blank. PG has very strong solvents and could possibly do things to the flat Prizm thread, IMO. Let us know how it works out. Stan
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Russ, I think you're describing an embossing tool. They're very good for thread work, IMO. Also, cuticle pushers are also useful and come in various sizes and shapes. Michael's is where I found the embossing tools. Cuticle pushers can be found in the cosmetic section of drugstores, big chain stores and at the Sally Beauty Supply stores. Stan
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Ronnie, As Mike pointed out, you want to get the excess epoxy off the wrap to prevent the "pregnant/football" effect. Just put epoxy on quickly, hand turn it periodically 180 degrees, take the sag off the bottom. Spatula(s) work well for me. Keep doing this 'til the epoxy starts to setup, then put it into some sort of rotation. Be sure the blank is leveled close to the blank's &quo
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Rod Bond is probably the best adhesive for bonding the seats in. Be sure to prep the gluing surfaces. Also, plumber's teflon tape works well to keep most extruded adhesive off the wood insert, making cleanup easier. Have fun, Stan
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I'd like to point out that the "Big Show" is for all folks interested in rodbuilding, from those who have never built a rod but have interest, to the experienced builder. I can't think of a better way for a new builder to learn than this event. It has so very much for everyone. Nothing like it anywhere. Stan
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Wouldn't miss it for anything - this will be my 4th. My wife will accompany me for spending supervision. Stan
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A bunch of us are probably simply retired, balding, poor-sighted, semi-incontinent folks that enjoy the building as best as we can, including learning to decorate a rod. As Mike said, a "labor of love". I've never sold a rod, though I've done some trading. For me, the building and fishing are the important things, as well as trying to make a little progress in the craft - not perfect
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Billy, be sure to bring this "name tag" issue to the head of the post list again! I would like to be able to thank all the RBO folks who have helped me so much over the years and just to meet those who are happily involved with this site,wonderful hobby, etc.. Free name tags were available last year but were underutilized due to all the fantastic things to see and pick-up. Of cour
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The WoodCraft flyer I received today didn't give any data on the smallest closing diameter with the jaws off. It looks a lot like the Nova Midi Precision chuck which will handle a 1/4th inch mandrel. Probably worth a visit or call to WoodCraft to get an idea of it's usefulness for mandrels used. I suspect it's a new chuck and doubt that many rodbuilders have experience with it yet. You'll n
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Mike, for oily woods, I soak the wood in 3 or more baths of acetone, 'til no color leaches in the solvent - out in the yard. Seems to allow the use of Tru-Oil. First coat does take longer to set-up and I don't know what will happen to the finish in a couple of years. Let us know what you figure out. Stan
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Foil, over a 12" X 12" square of cheap marble tile from Lowes, etc, gives even more cooling of mixed epoxy. Stan
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Just come to the 2007 Expo and buy everything you think you need for the next year, and 10% more for a buffer. Andy has an ad in the latest RMM (page 34) that you cut out and bring to the 2007 Expo for a 10% discount on purchases over $100.00. Stan
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